Lock up

[POPPER]

This has probably been batted around more than once on this site but being a relatively new 28 owner I've not seen it I guess. I'd like to know what causes these suckers to lock up from time to time when twisted one way or another or pointed up or down to extremes. seems like.. I have 2. A 28-2 4" and a 28-2 6". Both are prone to do this occasionally. I've taken a liking to the 4" as to carry it all the time now but a little spooked that it will bind up at the worst possible time one day. Anybody got a take on this problem. One more remark if I may the cylinder star etc. are free of any dirt, crud or whatever. Thanks for your time.

 

[TucsonMTB]

Can you be more specific about what is being done when the "lock up" occurs, please?

Admittedly, we only have a couple of modern J-frames in the family. But, there are NO circumstances under which either will "lock up", as in fail to function.

The cylinders of both "lock up" securely, as they should, shortly before the hammer falls or when cocked by hand. But, neither will "lock up" and stop functioning. That reliability is part of their charm.

So, please, tell us more about what is happening, sir.

 

[DWalt]

I think you may be referring to difficult cylinder rotation, not locking up. Several years ago, I had a M28, and it suddenly started freezing up on several adjacent cylinders for no apparent reason. I tore it completely apart for inspection, cleaning and lube. I found nothing unusual and it didn't help. Then about as suddenly as it started, it was OK again. I never figured out why. But I sold the gun while it was working correctly, just in case.

 

[crsides]

You got to look at everything that moves, inside and out. If you are using reloads, check to see that the primers are not protruding enough to catch on the firing pin hole. Maybe a burr there. Check to see that the cylinder face clears the back of the bbl. Lead build up there can cause a bind. Study the gun in motion. If you can find anything outside, take it down and do the same.

Charlie

 

[POPPER]

Can you be more specific about what is being done when the "lock up" occurs, please?

Admittedly, we only have a couple of modern J-frames in the family. But, there are NO circumstances under which either will "lock up", as in fail to function.

The cylinders of both "lock up" securely, as they should, shortly before the hammer falls or when cocked by hand. But, neither will "lock up" and stop functioning. That reliability is part of their charm.

So, please, tell us more about what is happening, sir.

Both of my N frames will occasionally bind up when shooting DA. You can give the cylinder a wiggle with your hand and then it will fire again. This usually happens if you twist the weapons up, down or sideways to any extreem. I kind of figure since both of mine will do this at times that this was a trait with these 28 H/P models I just don't know. I know the tolerance on the cylinder gap at the forcing cone is minimal with the recessed cylinder but I don't think that is the problem any more. For some reason I'm thinking this is happening because something in the hammer parts or trigger mechanism is shifting around and binding up from the jar of the 357 rnds. Although the Ns' are a little heavy they are heck for stout and I prefer to carry the 4" with me all the time except like I said for this occasional binding up problem. I might ad everything I shoot are my own loads and I am really picky with them. It is not caused by primers not seated properly. This has just got me lost as to what is happening. Another reason I know it isn't my loads causing this I can throw 6 snap caps in them and it will still do this. But like I say only if you roll the revolver over on its side or point it up in the air or down low mostly. I don't make a habit of shooting in those angles of course but have been doing this with the snap caps to see if I can get it to hang up and it does. Sorry to be so long winded with this.

 

[POPPER]

You got to look at everything that moves, inside and out. If you are using reloads, check to see that the primers are not protruding enough to catch on the firing pin hole. Maybe a burr there. Check to see that the cylinder face clears the back of the bbl. Lead build up there can cause a bind. Study the gun in motion. If you can find anything outside, take it down and do the same.

Charlie

Thanks for the input Charlie. Yeh I've eliminated the primers or leading. I'm convinced it is a part in the hammer or trigger mechanism that shifts around a tad and causes this. Just can't figure out which part yet. Could be wrong of course. I know how residue can cause problems but I take a lot of pains to keep these suckers clean. However no wheel gun to my thinking should have to be antiseptic clean all the time to function. Lastly one reason I believe it is something in the mechanisms is I have two of these N frames and both will do this on occasion. Not very often but they will do it. Thanks for the comeback. Popper

 

[FloridaFlier]

Sort of a basic point, please don't assume that I'm talking down to you, just eliminating possibilities. Are you certain that the ejector rods are screwed tightly into the cylinder? Also, they thread backwards, that is you tighten them by twisting them to the left.

 

[POPPER]

Sort of a basic point, please don't assume that I'm talking down to you, just eliminating possibilities. Are you certain that the ejector rods are screwed tightly into the cylinder? Also, they thread backwards, that is you tighten them by twisting them to the left.

Not talking down at all. Good point but yes they are OK. Everything external seems to be in good order. Thinking of taking off the side plate, have a good look, blow everything off with my pc duster, shoot in a little WD40 and see what happens.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

Do NOT use WD-40,It is not a lubricant.WD stands for Water Displacing.It will gum up the works,Use something like Triflow.

 

[2hawk]

I don't have this problem with my N frame, or any other frame size S&W's. So I wouldn't call it a trait, it is a defect.

If parts are not fitted correctly you can have binding. The hand and the double action sear are the obvious candidates, but not the only possibilities.

Are you shooting in DA when this happens? Any chance you are not allowing the trigger to reset fully? I know that I can cause a bind that way. And, how is the timing, and the endshake? I am thinking that a worn hand and too much fore and aft play in the cylinder might be a cause for what you are describing.

As far as your suspicion on parts that shift- if they are fitted right they won't cause this problem. You have the hammer block and possibly the internal trigger stop (rod in the rebound slide spring) that may make noise when you shake or move the gun, but that is normal and not a problem.

TL;DR:
A gunsmith that knows S&W revolvers is what you're seeking.

Good Luck, let us know how it turns out.

 

[2hawk]

I just thought of one more possibility- is the spring that provides tension on the hand in place and installed correctly? A lot of times it is removed if there's work on the hand or trigger, and if it isn't pushing the hand forward it may cause the problem I think you're describing.

This is good to have if you want to work on your revolvers:
The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

Probably cheaper on Amazon, but at least Larry donates to the NRA

 

[shawn mccarver]

The problem can be as simple as debris, requiring a cleaning, or more complicated requiring a trip to the factory. Either way, it is NOT normal and should not be accepted as such, no matter the angle or position in which the revolver is held.

 

[gboling]

Another rare possibility, if the cylinder is removed for cleaning, debris, such as a brass bristle, could have found it's way inside the cylinder causing binding. It may require dis-assembly of the cylinder to determine that this is or is not the problem.

If I hit a brick wall with this or any issue, I would contact S&W and return it to them. I have sent them guns for one problem and they have found others that I was unaware of. I sent them my cherished 4' model 14 service revolver for re-bluing and they found the hand and cylinder stop were beyond reliable use and the gun had never malfunctioned.

 

[POPPER]

Thanks ya all for the suggestions. I appreciate it. Learned one more thing since I got on this kick here and that is the little dowl rod where the spring is has a rnd tip on one end and a flat tip on the other. If it is installed backwards that will cause this problem. Going to break them down and check. That configuration was for a 44mag N frame so I really don't know if the 28 is set up the same till I look. Thanks again for the help fellows. Popper