I will be replacing the standard hammer & trigger in my M10 with smooth trigger and semi target hammer. While doing so, I will clean and lube the lockwork. In that regard, I have two questions, where to lube and what lube. I was thinking that graphite(liquid or powdered) might be suitable, correct me if wrong. All replies and hints are appreciated, thanks in advance!
Lockwork Lube?
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Pisgah
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A drop of any light gun oil (like RemOil and a host of others) at each pivot point and at the sear/trigger engagement is really all that's needed. Once everything's back together, work the action a bit to spread it around, and you're done.
ContinentalOp
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I just use whatever lube I use for everything else. Currently it's Gun Butter oil. If I have the side plate open, I usually put a drop (or less) on the hammer and trigger studs, trigger/hammer/sear engagement surfaces, and the underside of the rebound slide. I'm of the opinion that a lot of lube can be detrimental, so I keep it pretty minimal.
Some people like to use grease. I don't, so I'll let one of them chime in regarding that option.
Personally, I wouldn't use graphite.
Some people like to use grease. I don't, so I'll let one of them chime in regarding that option.
Personally, I wouldn't use graphite.
chief38
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I use Rig #2 Oil or Remoil because the carrier in these two oils is super light and will evaporate (made specifically to do that) sooner than most - leaving behind rust inhibitors and lubricants. You do not want a heavy, greasy tacky lubricant that attracts dust, powder residue, debris, etc. inside the lock-work of a Revolver that only gets opened and completely disassembled rarely.
Heavier oils and greases are more suited for guns that get disassembled on a routine basis like most of our Auto-loaders. When disassembled, they can be cleaned, wiped off and new lubricants are applied.
Heavier oils and greases are more suited for guns that get disassembled on a routine basis like most of our Auto-loaders. When disassembled, they can be cleaned, wiped off and new lubricants are applied.
gwpercle
Member
I would use Rem-Oil , I find it doesn't congeal and turn thick and sticky.
I have used some popular CLP's in the actions and they went gummy on me during storage ( Shooters Choice FP-10 and Break Free CLP) the lighter Rem-Oil doesn't do that and leaves a micro thin Teflon lube on the parts .
Gary
I have used some popular CLP's in the actions and they went gummy on me during storage ( Shooters Choice FP-10 and Break Free CLP) the lighter Rem-Oil doesn't do that and leaves a micro thin Teflon lube on the parts .
Gary
Old Corp
Member
There's several lubes that will work well. I've mostly adopted Brownell's Friction Defense lube. About one drop at hammer and trigger pivot points, a drop on rebound slide contact surfaces. That's it.
ImprovedModel56Fan
US Veteran
AFAIK, dry graphite is fine, but I do not have actual experience that I recall.
Although there are many lubes that are acceptable and some that are great, the one I have most experience with is RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. It should applied SPARINGLY to all parts which encounter friction, especially high-pressure friction like sears and such.
On any gun, but especially a 1911, all safety systems should be checked after first application of this very superior lubricant.
I use it on my SS Gov't Model, and on the insides of all my revolvers.
Although there are many lubes that are acceptable and some that are great, the one I have most experience with is RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. It should applied SPARINGLY to all parts which encounter friction, especially high-pressure friction like sears and such.
On any gun, but especially a 1911, all safety systems should be checked after first application of this very superior lubricant.
I use it on my SS Gov't Model, and on the insides of all my revolvers.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30W very sparingly. It works exceptionally well for me. There are times that I also use RemOil, MMO,and Ballistol - just depends what my goals are at the time. MMO is not used for long term storage, rather breaking in and cleaning adventures.
In the past I have successfully used Singer Sewing Machine Oil and 3-In-One oil. They have never presented any problem, either.
Bottom line: Any good lubricant. Where? Any pivot or friction area. Sparingly is important to avoid messes and fouling. This is a case where more is not better.
Interestingly, I have had occasion to crack open two 1917's recently, both of which showed very little use. Both works had old grease that was still trying to do its job, but failing miserably. A good cleaning resulted and a light oiling was done in the end (Mobil1).
In the past I have successfully used Singer Sewing Machine Oil and 3-In-One oil. They have never presented any problem, either.
Bottom line: Any good lubricant. Where? Any pivot or friction area. Sparingly is important to avoid messes and fouling. This is a case where more is not better.
Interestingly, I have had occasion to crack open two 1917's recently, both of which showed very little use. Both works had old grease that was still trying to do its job, but failing miserably. A good cleaning resulted and a light oiling was done in the end (Mobil1).
When you have the side plate off it is easy to clean it perfectly and lube only where it really needs it. Some time later, though you'll want to clean or lube with the side plate on.
If I have the time, I will flush the action with a solvent of some sort and then blow it out with compressed air (can or compressor). After that, a light lube/protectant like Remoil or a light synthetic motor oil hosed into the action and, again, blown out with compressed air. Looking for the proverbial 'light coat of oil."
Good luck.
If I have the time, I will flush the action with a solvent of some sort and then blow it out with compressed air (can or compressor). After that, a light lube/protectant like Remoil or a light synthetic motor oil hosed into the action and, again, blown out with compressed air. Looking for the proverbial 'light coat of oil."
Good luck.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Back in my PPC competition days I lubed my Model 19 action with Vaseline. Some years later I started using pure white lithium grease. In more recent years I have just disassembled completely and wiped everything down with a patch soaked with oil.
In my opinion, what lube you use makes less difference than keeping everything clean. All oils and greases will collect debris such as lint, dust, and powder residue over time, which can gum up the works and collect as hardened deposits that bind the lockwork and springs. When I carried a revolver daily as a cop I made a point of complete disassembly and cleaning at least once per year, and I always found accumulated gunk.
In my opinion, what lube you use makes less difference than keeping everything clean. All oils and greases will collect debris such as lint, dust, and powder residue over time, which can gum up the works and collect as hardened deposits that bind the lockwork and springs. When I carried a revolver daily as a cop I made a point of complete disassembly and cleaning at least once per year, and I always found accumulated gunk.
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