Looking for a good .45 ACP revolver load

Over the last 50 years I have used a hard cast lead H&G 68, 200 grain semi wadcutter in any case, with a WLP primer and 5.1-5.2 grains of 700X. I have had that load go as small as 5 rds into 1/2" at 25 yards. But it shoots very well in everything from 1911's to S&W 25's. You can used the same load in 45AR cases with the same result. Also, if you happen to have any left Win 452 AA can be substituted at the same charge and will be a little cleaner. I still have some and use both powders.
 
I would buy my Cowboy Action bullets by the 10,000. so when I wanted a cast bullet for Wild Bunch (Cowboys with 1911's), I used the same 200 RNFP, with 5.5 of Win 231/HP-38. Medium recoil in a full sized steel framed 1911. Shoots great from all my 1911 family (7 guns) my S&W 1917 Brazilian Contract and 625 Series of 1989, my Sig 220's (3 guns) and my Marlin Camp 45! And with my 45 Colt load (6.7 WW-231/HP-38) The 6 single actions and 3 lever actions. 21 guns using 2 loads of the same primer, powder and bullet, equals Logistical Bliss!

Ivan
 
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Most of the loads recommended aren't what I'd consider light loads that would be easy on your "arthritic hands". Anything over 3.5 grains of Alliant Bullseye is overkill. With your revolver you can get away with even less powder and still get accuracy. I like cast 185-200 gr. SWC coated bullets as they don't smoke up the place when shooting at the indoor range and you won't go broke like with JHP bullets.

Spot on.

My 45 Auto Rim load is 200 LSWC and 3.5 grains of Bullseye. Works great in 45 ACP brass in a revolver.
 
Same arthritis problem, 5.1 gr 231 with 200 gr lead worked in all the semi autos but too hard on my hands in both semi auto and especially the revolvers. Settled on 4.0 for the revolvers and 4.7 in the semi’s. Played a recoil spring game in the 1911’s so they all extracted the case. The 200 gr round nose feed easier on the revolvers so I use them in everything. Gonna try less 231 for the revolvers.

The only pistol powder I have is 231, use it in all my handguns. Larry
 
What crimp die does everyone use for 45acp in a revolver?

The crimp depends entirely on the bullet being used , when it comes to revolver ammo .

If the bullet has a cannelure or a dedicated crimp groove ...
... it gets a gentle roll crimp.

If the bullet is smooth sided ... no cannelure & no crimp groove...
... it gets a taper crimp

Now that doesn't mean you can't simply taper crimp them all ...
You can Taper Crimp any / all bullets ... But (there's always a But ) ... in a revolver the unfired bullets in the cylinder want to creep forward when shooting , the recoil pulls at them ... check your unfired rounds as you shoot and make sure you have enough taper crimp to keep the bullets from "creeping" forward . If they do ... add More Cowbell ... I mean add More Crimp ... (I watch too much old TV - SNL ) .
If you have standard 45 acp die set it will usually have a taper crimp die ... but a roll crimp die is sold / provided with a set of 45 Auto Rim for us revolver guys .
Usually the taper crimp die can be adjusted to hold all but the heaviest bullets with the heaviest loads ... when you get to the heavy weights , usually revolver bullets, you may need to go roll crimp .

Let me add ... In a revolver you can go with lighter loads ...
loads that don't function a 1911 action are just Jim Dandy out of a revolver ... try 3.5 grs of Bullseye with a 200 gr. cast lead SWC ... just don't load them into your stock 1911 ... they may not cycle 100% !
Gary
 
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In post number 27, I shoot offhand from shooting bullseye for 12 years. Maybe 2 handed 5.1 gr of 231 wouldn’t hurt so much. In a 45 acp loading cycle on the 550, gonna try some 3.5 of 231 with the 200 gr lead bullets Tuesday morning. Good thread, picked up a new load. Larry
 
I second the recommendation of 3.5 Bullseye under either a 200 or 185 gr bullet. In fact it's the exact same load I shoot in my 1911s. Absolute *****cat, and scary accurate.
 
The crimp depends entirely on the bullet being used , when it comes to revolver ammo .

If the bullet has a cannelure or a dedicated crimp groove ...
... it gets a gentle roll crimp.

If the bullet is smooth sided ... no cannelure & no crimp groove...
... it gets a taper crimp

Now that doesn't mean you can't simply taper crimp them all ...
You can Taper Crimp any / all bullets ... But (there's always a But ) ... in a revolver the unfired bullets in the cylinder want to creep forward when shooting , the recoil pulls at them ... check your unfired rounds as you shoot and make sure you have enough taper crimp to keep the bullets from "creeping" forward . If they do ... add More Cowbell ... I mean add More Crimp ... (I watch too much old TV - SNL ) .
If you have standard 45 acp die set it will usually have a taper crimp die ... but a roll crimp die is sold / provided with a set of 45 Auto Rim for us revolver guys .
Usually the taper crimp die can be adjusted to hold all but the heaviest bullets with the heaviest loads ... when you get to the heavy weights , usually revolver bullets, you may need to go roll crimp .

Let me add ... In a revolver you can go with lighter loads ...
loads that don't function a 1911 action are just Jim Dandy out of a revolver ... try 3.5 grs of Bullseye with a 200 gr. cast lead SWC ... just don't load them into your stock 1911 ... they may not cycle 100% !
Gary

I use a taper crimp for all my 45ACP/45AR rounds. Never had bullet creep. Even using 250 gr bullets in AR cases as pictured.
 

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