Loose Cylinder Rod on New 617

[torotoro]

Pardon my newbie question, but I was having trouble opening the cylinder after running 100 shots through my brand new 617. I found that the ejector rod had become unscrewed. The problem was resolved but from following threads here on SWF, I got the impression that the rod does not unscrew easily by hand without removing the whole assembly. The rod does not appear bent or anything but I just want to know if I should be concerned other than to check it regularly. TIA.

 

[ken158]

Happens frequently and stumps many when it locks the cylinder. Just tighten it real good and check it when you are doing a cleaning. Maybe tighten with a piece of leather. I have pliers with nylon jaws for jobs like that and there is a tool on the market for loosening rods that works well.

 

[BookerT]

I just bought a new 617 also. Thanks for the heads up. Does the ejector rod have right hand threads?

 

[torotoro]

I screwed it back in by turning clockwise holding the gun upright facing forward.

 

[stantheman86]

The 617 has standard threads on the extractor rod?

I thought all S&W's had right hand threads on there now, the last S&W that unscrewed the ejector rod during shooting was my older 1950's K-22.

 

[torotoro]

Okay, sorry for the poor explanation. The thread on the extractor rod is left. i.e., if you're facing the muzzle the rod is tightened by turning anti-clockwise. BTW, this thing is way too easy to unscrew. It came loose at the range again last night.

Just noticed I posted this in the wrong forum. Oops!

 

[stantheman86]

Just take the cylinder assembly out, and use some padded pliers or a piece of leather and vise grips to tighten that sucker up.

Seems like the assembler at S&W limp-wristed it when he (she?) screwed the rod on

 

[torotoro]

I'm skered! Cylinder removal is done by removing the screw just above the trigger on the right side plate, swinging out the cylinder and pushing forward correct!

 

[scooter123]

That is correct. Once you have the cylinder assembly free of the yoke, grasp in firmly with your left hand, fold some old leather belt over the knurling, grasp that with some pliers, and tighten it up by turning it counterclockwise (left hand thread). Tighten it up until the cylinder starts to slip in your left hand. If it shoots loose again, hold the cylinder a bit more firmly the next time you tighten it up. Note, these don't have to be stupid tight but they should be snug. Hold on the cylinder should be handshake firm and let it slip because your using your hand as a slip clutch.

 

[hsguy]

You should put some empty shells in the cylinder when you loosen or tighten the rod, takes some of the stress off the extractor star and pins.

 

[louisianacook]

I had this happen to my new to me 29-2 yesterday. Must be a full moon...

I did a search somewhere and someone suggested I put blue loctite on it. I put a very light film on the threads and snugged it down. I hope to shoot it again this week, I'll be sure to report back if it works. I assume it will though.

 

[dthughes]

and tighten it up by turning it counterclockwise (left hand thread).

Not to add too much to the confusion, but some of the older S&W revolvers had right hand threads didn't they? When did they switch to left-hand?

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Not to add too much to the confusion, but some of the older S&W revolvers had right hand threads didn't they? When did they switch to left-hand?

So they wouldn't back out go figure.

 

[scooter123]

If my memory is correct the change in thread direction was around 1961. Since the 617 was introduced in 1990, that's well past the change in thread direction.

Note, I STRONGLY advise against using locktite or something similar on these threads.

First because it isn't necessary. These are very fine pitch threads and they won't shoot loose when properly tightened even in a 500 Magnum.

Second, because it's a very fine pitch, it is VERY easy to crossthread this junction. I've found the best way to assemble the ejector rod to the extractor is by pressing in lightly and rotating the rod in the unscrew direction until a very light "click" is felt. That "click" is the male thread dropping into engagement with the female thread and at that point it will spin in freely. Gum it up with locktite and you will loose the feel for that click and most likely crossthread the assemblly. This means that you'll then have to purchase a new ejector rod, a new extractor star, and then have to pay a gunsmith to fit the extractor and hand together. That's a rather high price to pay for not taking the time to learn how to properly tighten this assembly.

BTW, I'm speaking from experience. I've been tinkering all my life and every single time I've tried taking a shortcut it's ended up in costing me more effort or money in the long run. Now I dont take shortcuts, they just aren't worth the cost.

 

[torotoro]

Well, being a newbie and all, I decided I'm sending this back. Plus, I may have messed up already. I tightened it with pliers padded with leather without removing the assembly. Didn't notice 'till I got to the range that the cylinder wasn't spinning freely. Just a binding a tad. Anyway, I e-mailed CS and hopefully will hear from them tomorrow with an authorization to return. Kinda soured me to new S&W's being my first HG purchase and all. Will report back. Thanks again for the replies. Oh and please wish me luck on my bid on a 14-3 on with an "AS IS no return, no exchange" proviso.

 

[Skeeziks]

I may have messed up already. I tightened it with pliers padded with leather without removing the assembly. Didn't notice 'till I got to the range that the cylinder wasn't spinning freely. Just a binding a tad.

Did you hold the pliers steady and tighten the cylinder to the rod...or did you hold the cylinder steady and tighten the rod with the pliers?

I hope you did the former & not the latter. Because if you tried to tighten the rod by turning it with pliers, then you probably put a slight bend in the rod, which is what would cause the binding.

 

[torotoro]

I think I did the former but I checked and now I know, the rod is bent a bit. It doesn't bind any more but now its not as tight as it was. Hope they cover it under warranty. Total bummer on first HG purchase.

 

[kean57]

Fixing loose ejector rod

Hi, toro,
Since no one else has given you this advice, I will share my fix with you. I have had several Smiths with ejector rods that would unscrew during normal firing, even after being "snugged down" with all the force that seemed reasonable and prudent. The fix is simple. Get yourself some Uncle Mike's Guntite (it's the blue, non-permanent form of Loctite sold in gunstores). Unscrew your ejector rod all the way, clean and de-grease the threads (both on the rod and inside the cylinder), put a drop of the Guntite/blue Loctite on the rod-threads, and then screw everything back together, finger-tight. Once the Guntite sets, I have never had a rod back out again from firing; but since it is non-permanent, if the rod needs to be unscrewed for any maintenance/repair in the future, non-marring pliers or an ejector-rod tool will easily do the job. I hope this was helpful to you,

Jim (kean57)

 

[torotoro]

Thanks so much Kean. I'll keep that in mind for the future. Being that the the rod is bent, I'm sending it back as soon as I get the mailing label, being brand new and all.