Loose screw on 442

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I have always carried a Smith revolver, in one incarnation or another, as a duty gun or off-duty gun. After shooting (usually departmental qualifications), I am in the habit of checking and tightening the screw on the cylinder latch. I generally remove the cylinder for cleaning, so that sideplate screw is always tightened. When I was performing these routine operations on my 442 (current off-duty gun), I decided (for no particular reason!) to check the other exposed screws in the right sideplate. I found that the top rear screw (where the hammer would be, if it had an external hammer) was markedly loose.

Is this a common problem? Do I need to do something to fix it, like put blue Loc-Tite on it, or just keep checking it periodically? Anyone else had this situation? (This is actually my first and only lightweight Smith; even my other J frame is a stainless 640-1, and everything else is a K frame or N frame.)

Thanks in advance.
 
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I have always carried a Smith revolver, in one incarnation or another, as a duty gun or off-duty gun. After shooting (usually departmental qualifications), I am in the habit of checking and tightening the screw on the cylinder latch. I generally remove the cylinder for cleaning, so that sideplate screw is always tightened. When I was performing these routine operations on my 442 (current off-duty gun), I decided (for no particular reason!) to check the other exposed screws in the right sideplate. I found that the top rear screw (where the hammer would be, if it had an external hammer) was markedly loose.

Is this a common problem? Do I need to do something to fix it, like put blue Loc-Tite on it, or just keep checking it periodically? Anyone else had this situation? (This is actually my first and only lightweight Smith; even my other J frame is a stainless 640-1, and everything else is a K frame or N frame.)

Thanks in advance.
 
I've shot the screws loose on several Smiths. I consider tightening them back up as part of cleaning.

Actually, its likely your fault for actually taking care of your guns. On most duty guns I've handled, the screws generally rust into place a little bit to prevent that from happening.
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It seems to be a problem with some of the stainless models. I had a 625 on which ALL of the screws came loose every time I shot, including the strain screw. Drove me nuts. I currently have a 686 which had a similar problem with the strain screw but with none of the sideplate screws or the cylinder release screw. I emphasize that I "had" a problem because I found a simple and workable solution. I got a tube of Guntite from Brownell's, applied a tiny amount to each screw, and presto! End of problem.

Guntite is made by the Loctite folks. I believe that it is milder than blue Loctite and can be broken loose without much difficulty if you need to remove the screws after applying it. I know that, on one of my guns I had a trigger job done to it after I'd applied Guntite to the sideplate screws and the gunsmith told me that he'd had no problem removing the screws.
 
Thanks for all of the input. I'll just keep an eye on it, or use my Gun-Tite (it's still packed up somewhere... maybe I'll have to buy another one). I've just never had this particular screw come loose, but it's also my only lightweight revolver.
 
What SGT 127 said. If you shoot enough eventually every screw will come loose. Check all screws after every range session. I used to replace thumb latches and nuts on a regular basis as officers couldn't seem to get in the habit of checking their guns after range sessions. Sights like to depart the frame while shooting too. Be sure to get a decent set of hollow ground well fitted screw drivers so the screws don't get buggered up.
 
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