Lube an clean internals?

[Boogsawaste]

How often should one wait to pull the side plate and clean/lube? I understand that this should be common practice right after purchasing a used gun, at least to have a look see. But I had my side plate off my 642 to "check on" the lock in the beginning and saw it was pretty dry in there. The gun was new a few months ago and I love shooting it. I put a few hundred through it already and take it to the range almost weekly. Just wondering how long until I open it up again.

I don't like the idea of constantly doing it (which I'm sure isn't the case), because of screwing tiny steel screws into aluminum.

Thanks for any info!

 

[Pisgah]

S&W manuals make no mention of removing the sideplate as a normal maintenance procedure. The reason -- it is rarely needed.

That is not to say never needed. If your revolver sees much rough duty -- and even carry in a dirty pocket can amount to that -- you might want to do it once, twice a year. If it gets dropped in a mud puddle or has some similar mishap, do it now. Otherwise you can go many years with nothing more than an occasional drop or two of gun oil squirted in.

 

[Boogsawaste]

Thanks. When the time comes to oil it, I'll have to pull the plate anyway. Being a centennial, no other way into it I guess. Don't know why I didn't think about the owners manual. Guess that could have cleared it up before I even posted!

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

About what Pisgah said, maybe even less often. You are right to be concerned about aluminum. Be gentle. Also, if only the cylinder and crane need cleaning, pull only the yoke screw (which is a little bigger these days, anyway). Fortunately, the Centennials stay a little cleaner, anyway.

 

[Boogsawaste]

Thanks. There's a gun show in a couple weeks near by me. I'll be there hopefully finding my next j frame. Looking for something steel this time. That's why I started thinking about cleaning and lubing the insides of these things since it'll be a used gun I'm looking for. Got me thinking about my 642.

 

[gwpercle]

I get into trouble taking the sideplate off too often, I can bugger up screw heads and sideplate edges like a champ, so I just use the small tube on a can of spray lubricant, with stocks off, and shoot some lube into the available openings and let it drain excess onto a towel before putting grips back on. Works for me. I like the Blaster brand PB-50 all-purpose lubricant for this. It doesn't dry up or get gummy.
Gary

 

[Boogsawaste]

Good idea. I wonder though, could doing it that way put way too much oil inside? I know centennial's are pretty sealed, but if dirt and dust got in from the trigger area or something and there is a lot of lube, wouldn't that cause the dust to accumulate and stick to everything better? Of course, I also have no idea what I'm talking about...just thinking out loud.

 

[gwpercle]

The PB-50 Blaster spray lube is thin bodied and leaves a thin film of lube. Letting any excess drain out seems to avoid any build-up. Sometimes I will use spray crud cutter ( carburator or brake cleaner) to spray and flush out any dirt and grime before lubing.
The company also makes a spray Silicon lube advertised as "dry film" I have some but have not tried it on the inside.
I had a problem with excess CLP getting thick and gumming up the action but the PB-50 Blaster lube doesn't build up or get gummy.
Gary

 

[sac-gunslinger]

I can bugger up screw heads and sideplate edges like a champ

You do use a Magna-tip screwdriver don't you? The kind where you can narrow the bits on your grinder so they fit each screw slot perfectly. You do have a grinder, don't you? Hmmmmm, neither do I, and I made my living with my tools for many years.

The easiest way to bugger-up a screw head is using a bit that is too small/narrow a blade for the screw. The magna-tip sets let you grind a screw bit to size....but you need a grinder. And holding one of those little bits next to a grinding wheel turning at high speed presents some concerns, especially if you are not experienced in so doing.

 

[usnrigger]

I would say it depends on a lot of different things, like how often to you shoot it, is it a new to you pistol, and is the action rough of giving a hint something could be messing up the works.

I normally pull the side plate more if I run lots of rounds through it, maybe once a year if it only gets light use, and I always pull it if its a new to me gun. I do these because ive run into people or gunsmiths that do things inside that I don't like or flat out its wrong. I would rather take a look just to see its all to my taste. Also in older S&W that have the little metal tab right behind the trigger I remove for pistols that are for social work or might be used for social work. Ive run into grease being used vs gun oil and I don't like that. If done correctly removing the side plate will do no harm. You need proper hollow ground screw drivers, and I use a Nylon wedge to help some sideplates come off. The aluminum pistols can be quite hard to get off the normally way of tapping it around the frame and have the plate fall into your off hand. I use the wedge when the side plates starts to separate at the trigger and give it a little help to come off. Just my 2 cents

 

[snubbyfan]

I only pull the sideplate on my 442 if I feel it's needed. Like if the action starts feelin' gummy or stiff. Sometimes I'll just put a drop of gun oil down the back of the trigger, hold it upside down and dry fire it a few times but not much more than that.
My wife's 66-3 has never had the sideplate off, it's just so smooth I don't have an excuse.
As you mentioned, it's common practice for me to pull the side plate, disassemble, clean and relube a used gun if needed. On a new gun, just a drop or 2 of oil in the access points occasionally.

 

[Boogsawaste]

Thanks again everyone. I originally figured it wasn't really an exact science. However, being pretty new to firearms in general I needed some kind of starting point, which you guys supplied me with. Appreciate it!

 

[gwpercle]

Jim,
If you do decide to remove the sideplate, or any firearms screw, do invest in a set of gunsmith type screwdrivers.
Midway and Brownells sell them and if possible get some S&W specific drivers. Pachmayer ( now owned by Lyman) sells a nice set that I find useful. Don't attempt to use any other type unless you grind a tip to fit that slot exactly, before getting a proper set I ground a few screwdrivers to fit various screws, but a set of tips with seperate handle is neater and covers a whole lot more applications.
Gary

 

[usnrigger]

I would agree on having a proper set of screw drivers. I started way back in the day with a multi tip set and it was nice to have all those options, but you then 3 days in you have 5 tips laying on your bench, and you loose them. Then I got smart and made my own with full handles specifically made for Colt SA, Smith Wesson, 1911 ext... If you don't have the means to custom grind your own look at getting a nice set that have the handles attached. For some reason your mind with just make you take care of them and put them away. Have your wife or someone you know sew you up a roll up pouch and I use different color fabric for each of the sets and I do also have a big set for the other models. I would also suggest getting some nylon or derlin and make you some non mare tools, they pay off thousands of times over when you can get in and get out with out leaving a mark. that's the true test.

USNRigger

 

[BJoe]

In a word? NEVER. I shoot my night stand gun every week 30-50 rounds and have NEVER had the side plate off. IF...IF...IF... it starts to feel 'gritty' on trigger pull I pull the grips, spray carb or break cleaner into the action, drop a few drops of CLP, shake it around, blow it out with compressed air, and store it standing up on a rag to let any extra lube run off. Few hours later wipe it out with Q-Tips and you are good to go.

 

[grcoffman104]

How often should one wait to pull the side plate and clean/lube?

This brought to mind a story from the 90's.

The 90’s, a field Deputy brings me his 4 inch Model 66 he’s carried for a decade says. “Doesn’t feel right!”
I dry fire it meh... Never liked stainless, klang,,, when hammer dropped sounded …a little different than most.
I said ok… I’ll take a look…pull out tools… had a big hammer in tool kit, loved the looks cops get when I moved towards their gun with it. I only used wooden handle to rap grip against to knock side plate off.
Did so with Captain, troop and Chief looking over shoulder. Side plate with transfer safety bar attached landed on towel on desk. Yes... safety bar not supposed to be attached to plate but it was by mass of black sludge that was exuding toxic odor with one small maggot wiggling in mass. Room cleared quickly.

I flushed weapon, plate and bar with hot tap water. So hot, remnants evaporated quickly in the dry Texas Panhandle humidity... or lack of. Re-oiled, put back together, still works today according to Deputy. Trick I learned when I was in a foot chase and fistfight with a doper
in a cattle feedlot. S&W Model 57 .41 and I ended up in a poop pit. Bad guy lost but was cleaner.

Investigation determined that troop driving on patrol for a decade, leaned to his right to insert chewing tobacco into mouth with gravity and luck pulling crumbs that missed mouth down to floorboard past the Mdl 66. Remember in those days no thumb break holsters just straps. This allowed tobacco to enter weapon thru frame in hammer area. Prior to discovery a fly egg must have made entry same way, hatched
munched on the panhandle heat dried tobacco, turned same into mush and grew. I have one witness alive to verify this adventure I call, “This is the worst case of gun hygiene I’ve ever seen!”

 

[Boogsawaste]

^^^ great story!

 

[shouldazagged]

"This is the worst case of gun hygiene I’ve ever seen!”

That's disgusting! But funny, in a horrible sort of way. :D

 

[MR.G]

Great story grcoffman104. I don't shoot much anymore, but when I did the side plates came off and all the internals cleaned/lubed about every third range trip. Replaced the springs about once a year with Wolf.

 

[BJoe]

Great story grcoffman104. I don't shoot much anymore, but when I did the side plates came off and all the internals cleaned/lubed about every third range trip. Replaced the springs about once a year with Wolf.

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek:

 

[TEXVET]

I am one of those people who like to know how things work and I like to take things apart just to see how they work. About three times a year I take my 1911s completely apart for a through cleaning. I was an armorer while I was in the Army, so I have had many years of hands on experience with the 1911 platform. I recently got in S&W revolvers. I consulted a gunsmith friend of mine for book or some other reading material that would show me how to dissemble my revolvers. He looked me in the eye and said "please don't attempt that". He explained the inter lockwork mechanisms to me, and I had to agreed with him. He recommended that I remove the cylinder, side plate, and grips first, then spray the internals with something like Gun Scrubber. He asked if I had a compressor. I said yes. He then said to hold the frame upside down and carefully blow the solvents out of the gun and use a spray lubricant to re oil the internals. He later told me "war stories" about the people he sees that have taken a revolver apart and then seek his help to get it put back together correctly. As much as it irks me to not be able to completely dissemble my revolvers and see what makes them tick, I trust the advice my friend gave me.

 

[SgtLumpy]

On Horrible Gun Hygiene...

I had a deputy who would smoke in his patrol car. The muzzle of his vertical mounted Remington 870 made a handy ash tray. Same deputy would eat chicken wings on patrol and drop the bones down the barrel of the same shotgun.

He never fired that shotgun but I always wondered what the pattern would be like with chicken bone flechettes with Marlboro butt wadding backed up by 00 buck.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[gwpercle]

grcoffman,
No contest here...you got first place in the Dirtiest Gun I ever Saw contest.
Hands down, blue ribbon winner here! It just might get second and third place too! what a story...thanks for sharing .
Gary

 

[riverrat38]

Gary

Well, post #23 is a close contender.
Now I know why the Military, and, I suspect, the Police, invented firearm inspections.
Fifty years ago, at the late Ft. Ord, anything that would transfer from my M14 rifle to a white glove was considered unacceptably filthy.

Best,
Rick

 

[KLYDE]

To each their own here. Many say never. I'm not in their camp. If and that is "IF" you have the mechanical ability, then periodic maintenance with the sideplate off is no big deal. If you don't have the ability, proper tools and knowledge then leave it alone or get qualified help.

Every gun I buy the sideplate comes off. Numerous times the internals have been gunked up big time with black sludge and gunk. It also gives me a chance to inspect for clipped rebound springs, other bubba adventures or something amiss.

Traded for a like new 65 the other day. I'm not being conservative by saying I really don't think the gun has fired a box of ammo. Trigger was a little funky. I pulled it apart, clean as a whistle but dry as a bone. And I mean dry. 1984 gun. Probably not seen a drop of oil since its born date. I gave the rebound slide a quick stoning, lubed the vital points and assembled. The action is now slick as owl dung.

After my initial cleaning and inspection then use and round count will determine when or if it comes off again. The gun can be oiled by using the hand window, trigger area and cylinder bolt hole if needed.

 

[brucev]

How often should one wait to pull the side plate and clean/lube? I understand that this should be common practice right after purchasing a used gun, at least to have a look see. But I had my side plate off my 642 to "check on" the lock in the beginning and saw it was pretty dry in there. The gun was new a few months ago and I love shooting it. I put a few hundred through it already and take it to the range almost weekly. Just wondering how long until I open it up again.

I don't like the idea of constantly doing it (which I'm sure isn't the case), because of screwing tiny steel screws into aluminum.

Thanks for any info!

I've been shooting revolvers since 1980. Some were range guns, but the overwhelming vast majority of them went into the woods/fields w/ me. I've shot the tar out of them. Still do. Cleaning the inside? Just stick the plastic tube of something like Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber in from the top w/ the hammer cocked... and spray till everything comes out nice and clean. Maybe give a shot from the bottom. Of course you take the grips off first. Lubricating only requires a drop or two of oil.

Now, if one of my revolvers were to make a trip through a pile of poo... I'd have to let the BCGS run a little longer. And if I were to buy a revolver that wouldn't respond to the spray treatment... I would buy proper screw drivers and carefully remove the sideplate to make whatever corrections were needed. But as a rule, the spray and then oil lightly method has worked extremely well for me. JMHO.

 

[rwsmith]

I'd do that too....

The PB-50 Blaster spray lube is thin bodied and leaves a thin film of lube. Letting any excess drain out seems to avoid any build-up. Sometimes I will use spray crud cutter ( carburator or brake cleaner) to spray and flush out any dirt and grime before lubing.
The company also makes a spray Silicon lube advertised as "dry film" I have some but have not tried it on the inside.
I had a problem with excess CLP getting thick and gumming up the action but the PB-50 Blaster lube doesn't build up or get gummy.
Gary

I'd do that too, because I don't want to get into taking sideplates off because I KNOW I will bugger something up. The hands and eyes ain't what they used to be. If somebody opens up my gun, it will have to be someone who knows what he is doing.

 

[TEXVET]

I have learned that there is a trick to removing the side plate on the Smiths. It is patience and practice. Remove the appropriate screws, hold the revolver flat in your left hand [side plate up-muzzle facing left], tap the top side of the stock near the bottom with a rubber mallet a few times.
The side plate should pop up and lay resting on the frame. The hammer block may or may not fall out. Remember to install the hammer block in it's most upright position so the side plate will go back on. If you are careful you will not feather the edges of the frame, like so many Smiths have. Also note that the side plate has a small tab at the top that must be inserted into the frame first prior to pushing the side plate back into position

I regularly remove the side plates on my Smiths for extra cleaning.

The first attempt resulted in the hammer block falling out. It was one of those OH sh*t moments. If I can see how something comes apart, I can reassemble it. If things fall out, it takes me some extra time and angst to figure how and why something works.

A little spray cleaner, some drying, and then a little lubricant applied with a camera lens brush will usually make them good to go for about six months or more. My main concern is rust.
These old guns have survived for many decades. I plan to do my part to help them survive for many decades to come.

 

[BigBill]

I give every brand new and used s&w or any gun that's new to me I GI cleaning I inspect each part for wear if it's used. Then I lube all the areas where it's a metal to metal contact with moly. After its cleaned and lived once on the inside its good to go for a few years.

Using moly as the lube the gun will be smoother action wise and I find it can lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as the moly wears into the pores of the metal. Just put a little moly on the end of the ejector rod and the locking pin on the opposite end of the cylinder then open and close the cylinder a few times and you will feel the difference a lube can make. I put moly on the star that turns the cylinder too. Between the moly on the inside and on the cylinder the action feels so much smoother when it's lubed with moly.

How do you determine how often you do a complete tear down and a GI cleaning and lubing?

It's like doing maintenance on your car. If you drive/shoot it a lot you need to clean and lube it more often. Once it's lined with moly just wipe it clean and relube it with moly. The bores and cylinder just use solvent on the bores only. Do not use solvent on the inner parts. You will find by wiping the parts clean and reappling moly your not removing the moly that's in the pores of the metal. Why go back to square one. Just wipe it clean.

Moly eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Fights corrosion
Does not attract dirt
Prevents galling
Stays were we put it.
Your gun is ready to rock n roll even after long term storage.

Oil does nothing to prevent wear. Oil prevents rust it's for the outside finish and inside the bores.

I use nothing but moly to lube my guns. My guns never leave home without moly in them.

If you want to tell how much a revolver is used/shot look at the star wheel on the rear of the cylinder that rotates it. If it looks like new the revolver has been shot very little. If it's showing wear its been shot a lot. By putting moly on this star it will never show any wear. Even if you shoot it a lot.

 

[Boogsawaste]

Hey guys, this thread rose from the dead...

What I've been doing ever since when I get a new or new to me revolver, I pull the side plate for an inspection, clean, and light lube. I disassemble everything while I'm in there to wipe all the parts down. Most of the older ones I've acquired had some serious black gunk in them. Also found a missing hammer block that I replaced, and a couple clipped springs. Been lucky that was the extent of my "bubba" finds.