Lube Or Snake Oil?

Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
10
Reaction score
8
Location
Oz-Central KS
Am always on the lookout for a verifiably high quality lube or oil for my 9mm semi. Have used a bunch, and they all seem to work well. Read in NRA's current edition of "Shooting Illustrated" (p. 32) that Sentry Product's Tuf Cloth and Tuf Glide are very effective in just about every weather condition. Also stumbled upon a product by Nano, which features not only an excellent lube/oil for knife maintenance, but also for pistols. Then they gum up their marketing to a non-scientific mind like mine by featuring 3 different grades(?) for different parts of your pistol: 5, +10, and +85. But the idea of using more than one kind of oil or lube for maintenance doesn't have much allure.

Anyone have actual hands-on experience with either of these? I welcome your take on them.
 
Register to hide this ad
Just about ANY oil will work, including automotive oils; I like Mobil 1. Use whatever gives you confidence in your weapon's function and reliability.
 
Last edited:
I have used Hoppe's No.9 to clean my guns for 45 years plus, lubrication has been a moving target. After owning several Sigs I now believe that it is important to grease the rails on alloy frame pistols. With that in mind, I use Mobil 1 grease or TW25, for oil, Slip 2000 EWL. A long time ago my pal forgot to bring a oil can to the range to break-in his accurized 1911, he used oil from the dip stick!
 
For general purposes just about any major brand product that's been around for a while should work - HOWEVER for carry guns I'd recommend Rig #2 or Remoil because the carrier evaporates leaving dry protectants behind. Ya don't want a carry gun to be weeping oil all over or for the oil to get on clothing, holsters, seats, etc. The two have been my mainstay for many many years.
 
The problem with firearm lubricants is their cost. Tetra gun (To mention one) has an outstanding series of lubricants, but if you use them in bulk as I do, $96.00/pound or $64.00/quart runs into real money for me.
Mobil1 motor oil is popular, cheaper, and would be an outstanding oil if it weren't for the chemicals dumped into it.
Mobil1 75w90 gear lube gives all the advantages of the motor oil, without the chemical dump. Mobil1 red grease is good for sliding surfaces and relatively cheap.

_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
 
Most of the specialty gun oils on the market are mineral oil. Check the specs and you would be shocked at how many use mineral oil base...it's "green" biodegradeable etc... Rem-Oil is mineral oil with micro-Teflon .

Except for synthetic oils, which date back to WWII , not a lot of new stuff has been developed...there is no magic lubricant.

A bought a expensive small bottle (2 oz.) of Lucas Gun Oil , it looked and smelled a lot like thinned Automatic Transmission Fluid. The stuff was a decent lube it just cost way too much $6.00 for 2 oz.
I came across some DIY stuff , a poor mans CLP if you will, that works just as well and cost much less . A 50-50 mix of Dexron ATF ($5.47) and K-1 Kerosene ($5.27) 1 quart each , mixed you get 64 ounces for $11.01 ! That beats $6.00/2 0zs. seven ways to Sunday.
It's a good CLP and except for the advertising hype, might be the same stuff as Lucas Gun Oil !
Gary
 
Basically use whatever works best for what you do with the gun. Just about any oil will work for range use,as you tend to clean or wipe down the gun when you're done.Something that gets used in inclement weather ( rain,snow etc. ) should be an oil that resists the tendency to " wash out " when it gets water on it. Avoid using any kind of penetrating oil as they tend to evaporate and leave very little to no lubrication.
 
I started using Royal Purple because I got samples in little dropper bottles at equipment shows. It is a synthetic like Mobil1 but the little bottles are sure handy. Since I have retired and no longer go to equipment shows, I bought a quart of Royal Purple and refilled the little bottles. Should last the rest of my life. Couldn't ask for better lubricant.
 
Ran out of the "boutique" $pray oil I had been using in the middle of a maintenance cleaning. Noticed a mostly ignored can of 3in1 oil that had been shuffled to the back of the shelf, it's just slightly heavier than the other stuff but it's pretty slippery. Moved it from the back of the shelf to the front, think it's gonna be alright
 
For a long time I used watch and clock oil. While in years past it was sperm oil from whales, that is no longer available and something else is used at present. The major feature of watch and clock oil is that it does not get gummy and stays in place. I still have most of a 4 ounce bottle of watch and clock oil on my shelf.
 
if you want a good inexpensive lube make up some Ed's Red. Real
easy to do and works well. I make mine without the solvents as a
general gun oil.

If you really want to know what's in your lube of choice, Pull up
the SDS( safety data sheet ) for it. You'll find quite a few of the
gun oils out there are mineral oil and/or kerosene based.
 
The late Warren Page, longtime gunwriter and benchrest competitor, had access to lots of products. When asked what his favorite bore cleaner was, he replied, "whatever's free!" The same probably applies to lubricants as well.
 
I'm using the same gallon jug of BreakFree I bought over 25 years ago. Sure, i've used plenty of other stuff at the range, especially after officially sanctioned practice and training sessions or qualifications. I don't even know what the stuff was. I'm sure it was cheap, maybe military surplus.

I've also used motor oil (done the dipstick thing) and sewing machine oil. Sure Hoppes too and whatever comes in the cheap gun cleaning kits, if it's not Hoppes. And yeah, I've used WD40 more than a few times.

But I still have some of the BreakFree left, less than a quart. Unlike the new BreakFree my old stuff smells great. The new stuff doesn't seem to have that pleasing sweet aroma.
 
Back
Top