Lubing our revolvers...."?".......

[BigBill]

You know we do lube all our guns so why are our revolvers left dry inside??

Recently my two new S&W revolvers, my two used rugers and my used taurus 22 cal revolver were all dry inside.

Its funny that most of us will disassemble our semi-auto pistols to clean and lube them while our revolvers are left dry inside.
It only takes a few minutes to disassembly the revolvers and lube the inners with moly. I put a tad of moly on all the metal to metal contact area's. Its very silly to let them run dry till they wearout then we replace the worn parts or trade the gun in. Its a cycle that we can avoid by just lubing it.

www.tsmoly.com ts-70 moly paste or anti-seeze

My guns never leave home without moly. Let no gun wearout in my lifetime nor for the future generations of my family when they get handed down to them too. Bill

BTW; My new S&W model 57 in 41mag has an awesome trigger from the factory. While my new S&W model 58 in 41mag had a little rough trigger. I put some moly in the 58 and she matches the model 57 in smoothness now too. I like my triggers to be the same or close to each other on the let off. A smooth trigger let off means better accuracy when we shoot it, like tighter groups...we all can use that.

Even the semi-auto pistols cycle better, smoother, faster, with a faster cycle timing with moly too. I use it in my semi auto rifles and my bolt actions too. If your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working. We pay a lot for these guns and why not protect our investment with using the right lube so they don't wearout.

I have nothing to do with the sales or production of moly, my fight is against seeing the used guins for sale with so much wear when it can be prevented by using the correct lube. Oil is for the bores to prevent rust it does nothing to reduce the wear. Moly gets into the small pores of the metal and even during long term storage the gun is ready to rock n roll at anytime.

Moly;
Eliminates wear
Reduces friction
prevents galling
fights corrosion
stays were we put it
does not attract dirt

Now tell me your still using oil to lube your guns???

 

[Ga Johnny]

mine are not dry inside.........what makes you think everybody is walking around with dry revolver guts.

Sounds like you're a big fan of the moly stuff

 

[BigBill]

mine are not dry inside.........what makes you think everybody is walking around with dry revolver guts.

Sounds like you're a big fan of the moly stuff

Every used revolver I have purchased so far this year has been dry inside. My new S&W revolvers are dry also when i purchased them. I'm at 100% right now with dry revolvers. I've seen nothing new or used in revolvers yet since the mid 70's that has been lubed. I think overall thats really sad. I just don't get it, does everyone just buy another revolver when it wears out? Or they don't shoot it that much. I think most would shoot it more if they knew they couldn't wear it out in there lifetime. I can only judge from what i have seen so far with dry revolvers. Bill

 

[kennyb]

Every used revolver I have purchased so far this year has been dry inside. My new S&W revolvers are dry also when i purchased them. I'm at 100% right now with dry revolvers. I've seen nothing new or used in revolvers yet since the mid 70's that has been lubed. I think overall thats really sad. I just don't get it, does everyone just buy another revolver when it wears out? Or they don't shoot it that much. I think most would shoot it more if they knew they couldn't wear it out in there lifetime. I can only judge from what i have seen so far with dry revolvers. Bill

i have been shooting revolvers for a lot of years...i reload so i shoot a LOT....i dont pull sideplates to lube and i have NEVER worn one out...i dont know of any worn out in that fashion

 

[venomballistics]

i have been shooting revolvers for a lot of years...i reload so i shoot a LOT....i dont pull sideplates to lube and i have NEVER worn one out...i dont know of any worn out in that fashion

since you reload ... do you fire cast?
if you do, your blowing some of that spent lube into your action which seems to help matters a little.

I help that process along by pulling the grips and spraying the innards though the main spring tunnel with silicone lubes and just let it migrate.
How hard is that?

 

[canoeguy]

I think for years Smith and Wesson included in some portion of the literature that came with each revolver some cleaning tips, which included to "occasionally" place a drop of light gun oil on the hammer, cock the revolver a few times and let that one drop of oil migrate down into the innards of the revolver.

Thats what I do, I've never taken the sideplate of a revolver unless I absolutely had to.

I have a Model 64 that I've run thousands of rounds through, I had a friend gave me a guided tour inside the revolver to show me how to totally disassemble it, and it looked brand new inside, so that lube practice must be working.

 

[bmcgilvray]

No dry revolvers here and never have been any. Mine have always seen light machine oil and only light machine oil. They've given reliable service through heavy use for so long now that I'm not changing methods of lubricating.

 

[Rule3]

I would not nor have I every used Moly lube or Moly bullets or Molly Barrel oil. It is the most tenacious stuff around and a real pain to remove. Yes it's slippery, but it is not needed.

As mentioned, SW revolvers do not need a lot of lube. Cock the hammer place a few drops of any quality gun oil and it will find it's way. I use Rem Oil any brand will work. Sewing machine oil, Ballstol (mineral oil)Synthetic motor oil, Eezox is amazing product for dry lube and corrosion prevention.

I purchased a used revolver a while ago (an expensive one) I always remove the side plate on a new to me old gun and found it packed with what looked like gray 90 weight gear oil or grease. It was disgusting. Disassembled it. cleaned with brake cleaner and a few drops of Rem oil.

 

[Andy Griffith]

My modern revolver guts get Rig +P lube, while the blackpowder ones get bore butter. The outside of all of them get Ren Wax to actually protect them.

Moly is some hard **** to get off- especially off your clothing if it leaks out of the gun.

I remember when moly used to come from Outers in the old grey metal "gunslick" tubes- I used some of it then, and haven't touched it since because of the mess it made. I agree it does lube superbly though. I bet I have four or five tubes of the stuff as it seemed to come in every metal cleaning kit box I ever bought!

 

[Snapping Twig]

Once a year or so I take off the sideplates and I use synthetic motor oil. It's generally still there after a year, surprisingly.

I lube the trigger return assembly and every other thing in there that slides or pivots or is a spring.

In super cold climates, you should use graphite as oil freezes FWIW.

 

[H Richard]

My revolvers are lubed with a light CLP oil, Break Free. They all run like fine watch's.

 

[G.T. Smith]

M37 lubing?

My modern revolver guts get Rig +P lube,
Is it OK to use +P lube in an alloy framed J frame 37?
Or could it stretch the frame?
Just joking, I never fire a new purchase S&W revolver until I see what it looks like under the side plate. My 1990 model 65-4 looked like brand new in there. It is a police trade in, was lubed very lightly and very clean. My 1968 model 37 looked like it had bees wax or something in it. I used gun scrubber and then a very light lubing with LSA. It runs very smooth. I don't think I would want to fire a dry inside revolver and more than I would a semi.
Sorry Andy, I just couldn't pass that up.
Peace,
gordon

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

My modern revolver guts get Rig +P lube . . . .

+1. But all of the new S&W revolvers I have handled, even forty years old or whatever, worked almost as well. There shouldn't really be a panic to detail disassemble a revolver until it has had quite a few rounds through it, or been subjected to water or worse. I will, however, say that every revolver that I have disassembled looked like it wouldn't hurt to clean it, with one exception.

I bought a C*** Detective Special once from a policeman who wanted a lighter backup gun. His father, an amateur gunsmith (or maybe a real one), had bobbed the hammer, so I got it cheap. Seems like people who don't know any better won't pay much for an altered gun, so the shop owner told him it wasn't worthwhile to buy a hammer and have it fitted and then expect to make any money on the deal, so I paid what he asked for it - $90. I had been carrying light guns and kind of liked the feel of a real gun with a grip adapter (of course I replaced the old blacken-your-hand Pachmayr or Mershon or whatever with a Tyler). Anyway, I got that thing home and completely stripped it, including making a tool to get the cylinder off of the center pin, or whatever (it was a while ago). I needn't have bothered. That was the only revolver I have ever seen so clean with the cylinder completely removed. It looked like it had been stripped and cleaned by someone who was giving it to his son whose life might depend it.

Oh. I guess it was.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I use Gun Butter for lube. So far I like it. I use maybe 5-7 drops in a few key spots about every month or so, depending on how much the gun gets used.

There's no need to remove the sideplate for lubing the gun. I do remove the sideplate every year or so for cleaning and inspection, or if I'm having an issue with the gun and need to see what's going on.

 

[johngalt]

I don't like taking the sideplate off my revolvers. It doesn't take much of a slip to bugger a screw.

 

[stantheman86]

With the proper screwdriver, I am not afraid to remove sideplates. I've done it dozens of times. The only time I don't remove a sideplate is if it's an older Smith and it looks like it's never been off.

I have used moly to lube the rails of my semi-auto pistols, and rifles. There's a definite difference.

I have found the advantage of moly on revolvers to be debatable.

I think moly finds it's use for high heat, high friction steel on steel. Revolver parts don't move fast enough for moly to offer any advantage IMO.

I have a well used M&P made in 1919 that was bone dry and it's not worn out. Looks like it hasn't seen a drop of oil in it's life.