Lubrication question - confused
- Thread starter PhilBob
- Start date
F75gunslinger
Member
In my opinion a totally unprofessional move, only done to minimize him having to help someone who has an issue. Many new guns need some time and round count to work in, and running them wet helps minimize issues. It really isn't the way to maintain your gun though. He's giving people really bad habits right at the start for his own convenience.
Aircrewman
Member
Briefly, apply an adequate amount of lubricant which generally is a small amount. As has been stated, too much is a problem or can be.
The instructors were rather unprofessional in their spraying everyone's gun in the manner that they did. They should've explained to the class the need for "adequate lube and then run the course and let the students experience the results of too much/too little lube....
The instructors were rather unprofessional in their spraying everyone's gun in the manner that they did. They should've explained to the class the need for "adequate lube and then run the course and let the students experience the results of too much/too little lube....
Yes. That's why I am always careful to leave the 5 or 6 chambers very dry, but often leave the slightest film of oil in the barrel. Even in the barrel, excessive oil is a no-no.
P.S. It's not like the gas is going to go where it's not supposed to, but that the case will not grip the chamber properly, and will move backwards faster/more than it should. Leastways, that's my understanding. Maybe you're right, and it's even worse. Someone should check that out on his gun. Mine are not available for experimentation.
Last edited:
Adhesion. The case grips the chamber under initial pressure. It's designed into how the gun operates.
Whether or not spraying lube in the chamber would be a problem depends on the gun, caliber, and how long you do it.
Spraying lube into a chamber is a profoundly stupid thing to do, even if it does make your day go smoother.
Whether or not spraying lube in the chamber would be a problem depends on the gun, caliber, and how long you do it.
Spraying lube into a chamber is a profoundly stupid thing to do, even if it does make your day go smoother.
Spraying lube into an ejection port? That risks getting it into both the chamber and, even worse, the firing pin port. Those are areas where lubes are big no-nos. Those instructors need to read an owner's manual or two. The owner's manuals of my two M&Ps make it quite clear that over-lubrication is to be avoided.
wingriderz
Member
A dab will do ya
S&W SS Revolvers
Member
Also too much oil in the barrel can be rel bad. Just what if he got it in there...? Ya , the gun should be serviced after and before. I'd be ticked off...
Ok, right off the bat; relying on YouTube videos for gun advice is a BIG mistake! I've seen a heck of a lot of B/S, mistakes, and outright lies propagated by total morons on that sight. It takes more than a video camera and an internet connection to make an expert -- on anything.
Don't care for anyone spraying cleaner in my pistol. It's my job - not theirs.
Loosegroup
Member
Less is more. If you have to have oil to get your gun to run, you have other problems. I use oil to retard oxidization.
Chdezjr
Member
Hi there - I own a number of semiauto handguns and just recently purchased a rifle. I can tell you without question when you apply lube it is to ensure the parts move properly and cause minimal friction. I first began using lube after cleaning my gun well with a solvent (i.e. Ballistol, CLP, RemOil with Teflon MSDS, etc.) by placing a few drops in the spring at the rear of the gun (where there is movement of parts and metal to metal contact) as well as a small drop in the trigger area. I'd then stand the slide straight up, and drop some lub down the back of both rails and let it slide all the way down. As that is being done, I'd place a few drops on (and apply it all around) the barrel... Usually there is some oil left over that gathers on the front end of the slide after sliding all the way down, so I get a Q tip and apply that onto the inner walls and roof of the slide. Assemble back together and you are good to go. Nowadays I use Lucas Red 'n Tacky grease for the barrel, rails and the inner walls/roof of the slide since it stays in place and (in my opinion) makes racking the slide feel much smoother. Just take a small dab out of the tube with a Q Tip and apply. That tube looks like it's gonna last forever at the rate I am using it.
Rule of thumb, don't overdo it. Too much lube will eventually seep out of your gun, making the external portion very slippery. What's left internally has the potential to gum up important parts of your firearm as well.
I've chosen the less-is-more route which is why I went with grease instead for the high friction parts of the gun. I've owned 2 M&P Shield's (one with and one without safety) and can honestly tell the difference now between when I used lube-only as opposed to lube and grease. Much less wear on parts with high friction.
Rule of thumb, don't overdo it. Too much lube will eventually seep out of your gun, making the external portion very slippery. What's left internally has the potential to gum up important parts of your firearm as well.
I've chosen the less-is-more route which is why I went with grease instead for the high friction parts of the gun. I've owned 2 M&P Shield's (one with and one without safety) and can honestly tell the difference now between when I used lube-only as opposed to lube and grease. Much less wear on parts with high friction.
pieceinthevalley
Member
The advice I followed while shooting service rifle competition for 20+ years got carried over to handguns and has served me quite well since. If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. Either in moderation.
Good Advise
You have received tons of advise - all good except the physical violence (backhand) to the instructor which could land you in the pokey!
I have many handguns and target shoot almost weekly. As I live in Florida, humidity (potential for rust) is an issue. I use froglube on my guns - follow the directions and this product is simple and a great way to protect your guns. I also use hoppes #9 for any heavy cleaning. The difference is Hoppes #9 smells kinda like bug spray and is not so pleasant to use. FrogLube smells like spearmint and I apply it with Q-tips so a little goes a long way. $.02
You have received tons of advise - all good except the physical violence (backhand) to the instructor which could land you in the pokey!
I have many handguns and target shoot almost weekly. As I live in Florida, humidity (potential for rust) is an issue. I use froglube on my guns - follow the directions and this product is simple and a great way to protect your guns. I also use hoppes #9 for any heavy cleaning. The difference is Hoppes #9 smells kinda like bug spray and is not so pleasant to use. FrogLube smells like spearmint and I apply it with Q-tips so a little goes a long way. $.02
Gebe
US Veteran
The debate about gun lube will continue on forever. All I know is all I've used for more years than I care to abmit on all of my pistols, revolvers, shotguns and rifles has been Hoppe's #9 for cleaning and Break Free CLP for lubing.
Whatever works for you is fine but those two have never failed me.
Whatever works for you is fine but those two have never failed me.
Spray Lube
I have seen many firearms that have had spray lube in an abundance and do much so that the spray lube has migrated and attacked the primer. If you leave a firearm in a drawer long enough without checking on it while using an consonance of spray lube you may have ammunition problems.
I have seen many firearms that have had spray lube in an abundance and do much so that the spray lube has migrated and attacked the primer. If you leave a firearm in a drawer long enough without checking on it while using an consonance of spray lube you may have ammunition problems.
Similar threads
