Luger question

[NYlakesider]

I hope this gets a simple answer, but I doubt it.

Where on a Luger is the serial number? (or does that depend on year of manufacture or where built/who built.)



A friend from out of state called me up and asked me and I do not know. He says there is one 4 digit number on the top of the fixed part of the action between the barrel and the toggle system. It says 1939 which possibly is a date of manufacture or rebuild.

A bunch of other number but they are only 2 or 3 digit and scattered around. He says the gun has been rebuilt, and has mixed parts. Its hard to see the number as they look brushed over. Possibly has a couple of small Nazi eagles. Possibly a crest with a M on the toggle top!

Other than that he says the gun is in excellent shape and the owner is asking $1200 for it. (shooter grade)

He has no pictures to send.

Hopefully I can get a answer here if not I will tell him to go to a Luger forum!

 

[robertrwalsh]

On actual German lugers it is usually on the front edge of the frame below the barrel. Small parts are normally numbered with the last two didgits of the serial number. If it is GERMANY it was made for export. If it says Deutch or Deutchland it was made for internal use. I am confident a REAL EXPERT (not me) will dive in with more info but I own three of them so I am not totally unfamiliar. IMHO that is high for a mismatched shooter. I recently paid under a thousand for a matching numbers (including magazine) 1914 Erfurt.

 

[PPS1980]

The main four-digit serial number is on the underside of the barrel, just above the trigger. At the top of the pistol the numerical code just before the start of the exposed barrel refers to the Luger's particular make. The frame number is located on the left-hand side of the gun just above the trigger. And the slide number is just above the beginning of the pistol butt, or handle.

 

[murphydog]

Good information above. In that era, 1939 would have indicated the production year. Too bad S & W didn't do this, it would save a lot of "how old is my gun?" questions here .

 

[NYlakesider]

Thanks for the answers. I will pass on all that I learn. Its hard being in the middle as I have not seen the gun) I thought it was too much, but I realy know little about that gun.

From what he said it is VG/solid condition, albeit a very vigorous buffing & re-blueing!

 

[dave1918a2]

For a non-matching numbers refinished gun $1200 is way too high.
I wouldn't pay over $750 for one like You describe.

 

[PPS1980]

Thanks for the answers. I will pass on all that I learn. Its hard being in the middle as I have not seen the gun) I thought it was too much, but I realy know little about that gun.

From what he said it is VG/solid condition, albeit a very vigorous buffing & re-blueing!

I'm sure you know this but remind your friend to a) have an old gunsmith go over it if he wants to fire it and b) no hot rounds.

 

[jsfricks]

Here's the long answer from the Luger forum-

On DWM, Mauser and Erfurt guns, the following parts should have serial numbers on them:
Frame, full serial number with suffix
Under barrel: full serial number with or without suffix
Left side of the receiver, full serial number without suffix.

When they left the factory, these numbered parts were matching.
On German military accepted Lugers, all the following parts should have the last two numerals stamped on them:
• Firing pin
• Extractor
• Sear bar
• Breech-block (proofed)
• Front toggle link
• Rear toggle link
• Locking bolt (take-down lever)
• Side plate (with a few exceptions through the years, see comments on side plate)
• Trigger
• Safety lever
• Safety bar
• Hold-open latch
• Grips (inside – some with no markings or worker marks only)
Note that many DWM and Mauser side plates have either the first digits of the pistol's serial number, or the first digits plus 1 stamped inside. See below for a more complete discussion.
Also note that the rear toggle pin was not serial-numbered until Mauser started to do so in 1934.
There were two "styles" of serial number marking, Commercial style and Military style.
The numbering and placement varies from era to era. Placement varies considerably between commercial pistols and military marked Lugers.
In commercial style some of the numbers, notably the side-plate and locking bolt, were stamped underneath in a way which did not affect the surface. look of the gun--military serial numbers were stamped on the visible surfaces. If your mismatched parts are stamped highly visibly they likely come from military guns.
Early variations of DWM military Lugers have proof marks on the left of the receiver.

 

[NYlakesider]

Here's the long answer from the Luger forum-

On DWM, Mauser and Erfurt guns, the following parts should have serial numbers on them:
Frame, full serial number with suffix
Under barrel: full serial number with or without suffix
Left side of the receiver, full serial number without suffix.

When they left the factory, these numbered parts were matching.
On German military accepted Lugers, all the following parts should have the last two numerals stamped on them:
• Firing pin
• Extractor
• Sear bar
• Breech-block (proofed)
• Front toggle link
• Rear toggle link
• Locking bolt (take-down lever)
• Side plate (with a few exceptions through the years, see comments on side plate)
• Trigger
• Safety lever
• Safety bar
• Hold-open latch
• Grips (inside – some with no markings or worker marks only)
Note that many DWM and Mauser side plates have either the first digits of the pistol's serial number, or the first digits plus 1 stamped inside. See below for a more complete discussion.
Also note that the rear toggle pin was not serial-numbered until Mauser started to do so in 1934.
There were two "styles" of serial number marking, Commercial style and Military style.
The numbering and placement varies from era to era. Placement varies considerably between commercial pistols and military marked Lugers.
In commercial style some of the numbers, notably the side-plate and locking bolt, were stamped underneath in a way which did not affect the surface. look of the gun--military serial numbers were stamped on the visible surfaces. If your mismatched parts are stamped highly visibly they likely come from military guns.
Early variations of DWM military Lugers have proof marks on the left of the receiver.

Thanks to all that answered, "jsfricks'' lots of info there, I learned a lot, Thanks.

I will send all this to my friend, at that point ball is in his court!