You die plug return plunger is adjusted wrong. Back off on the locknut and adjust the plunger rod down a turn or 2. Tighten the lock nut and lube a bullet......Simple 2 minute adjustment fix.
Lyman 45 Sizer lube problem
- Thread starter AlHunt
- Start date
Al, if you notice the long dark bolt at the bottom of your device, this controls the depth of the bullet into the sizing die. Adjust this so the top punch only pushes the bullet in, but allows the crimp groove to remain above the sizing die. When you go to lube the bullet, you don't have to crank lube with every bullet you size.
Attachments
Got it - I was being very careful. The adjuster wasn't moving for me but I got it moving and a small adjustment has me going.
The tip about not having to crank the lube arm every time was also key. Turns out a very gentle touch is the way to go. I now have the gas check area getting a small amount of lube (none to speak of UNDER the bullet), the bottom lube groove well lubed but the next one up getting nothing. I think that will work.
A gas check should alleviate the lube getting in there.
So, THANKS everyone who jumped in here.
I'll probably start another thread about cast bullets in the 5.56, my hopeful next trick...
Yes, indeed. Getting it adjusted correctly seems to have solved most of my problems. Thanks for the information!
I have 3 450s but yours is a little different. It looks like you need an o ring and seat the die a little deeper? Surely the set screw doesn't go in the groove? One grease groove on the bullet will work but that bullet needs a gas check. I am not sure that is the correct lube die. Can you adjust how high the bullet sets on the bottom threads? And I thought my stuff was old.
This was a used piece of equipment I bought and the die was in place when it arrived. The upper groove does seem like it should have an O-Ring but it's clear that the set screw has been holding the die in place.
I can adjust the depth of the bullet and have now figured that part out. I'll keep looking for a PDF of whatever manual came with it originally.
You don't need to plug any of the holes in the die. Set the depth adjustment screw sleeve to the correct height for the bullet and you are good to go. You also need to have the correct top punch installed. When properly adjusted The ram inside the die will block any lube from getting under the the bullet SO LONG AS YOU KEEP PRESSURE ON THE HANDLE while giving the ratchet wrench a sight turn to force lube into the grooves.
Smaller diameter bullets with only one or two lube grooves require the least amount of of pressure on the ratchet. Sometime two or three bullets can be lubed without any added pressure.
But remember to hold down the lever while turning the ratchet.
Look in here to find a user manual for the new 4500 model. It will cover the basics and should still be helpful for your older 45 model.
User Manuals
And if you need an O ring for your sizer die, go to the hardware store and, for a couple dollars, buy a pack of #35, 11/16" OD X 9/16" ID X 1/16" rings. These work fine with the Lyman sizer dies.
John
Smaller diameter bullets with only one or two lube grooves require the least amount of of pressure on the ratchet. Sometime two or three bullets can be lubed without any added pressure.
But remember to hold down the lever while turning the ratchet.
Look in here to find a user manual for the new 4500 model. It will cover the basics and should still be helpful for your older 45 model.
User Manuals
And if you need an O ring for your sizer die, go to the hardware store and, for a couple dollars, buy a pack of #35, 11/16" OD X 9/16" ID X 1/16" rings. These work fine with the Lyman sizer dies.
John
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Ivan the Butcher
Member
You should have an "O" ring at the top of the sizer die. When brand new, they come with one, so you won't have to try to move it back and forth.
I can't remember if the holes in the die are #4 or #6 shot sized but remember RCBS and Lyman dies are the exact same so a call to either customer service will get that question answered! However, I have never seen anyone fill the holes (including me). I have bought dozens used and not one hole was filled.
The reason the top groove isn't filled with lube is: It is the crimp groove! (for roll or taper crimps)
Ivan
I can see why there's no need to fill the holes since the ram blocks those holes internally. Correcting the adjustment and refining my technique have me on track, I think.
It sounds like I need to install an O-ring and lower the die so the set screw rides on the top ring of the die body.
It sounds like I need to install an O-ring and lower the die so the set screw rides on the top ring of the die body.
gwpercle
Member
I found PDF instruction manual for 450 on line . It seems I had to do a search " Lyman 450 lube/sizer Instruction Manual and Parts " to find the site it was located at . The regular Lyman site got me nowhere , but I may have overlooked it there .
Seems they had manual/parts for 45 , 450 and 4500 there .
Lyman still has replacement parts for the 450 so I stocked up on some...they may have some 45 parts also .
Adjusting the bullet depth in the die and the amount of lube pressure are critical to getting it " Baby Bear" ... Just Right .
Flat nose punch works great on SWC . Fill one with epoxy and sand flat .
Stick with it ,
Gary
Seems they had manual/parts for 45 , 450 and 4500 there .
Lyman still has replacement parts for the 450 so I stocked up on some...they may have some 45 parts also .
Adjusting the bullet depth in the die and the amount of lube pressure are critical to getting it " Baby Bear" ... Just Right .
Flat nose punch works great on SWC . Fill one with epoxy and sand flat .
Stick with it ,
Gary
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All of the used dies I've bought work fine, and like Ivan, have never found one with blocked holes. Missing O rings are another thing but they are easily replaced. It's all a matter of adjustment and technique and once you get them down pat you will be cranking out thousands of perfectly usable bullets for a fraction of the price of store bought. I haven't bought any commercial bullets for my handguns, lead or jacketed, in years.
Next you will need to find a cheap source of lead!
John
Next you will need to find a cheap source of lead!
John
All of the used dies I've bought work fine, and like Ivan, have never found one with blocked holes. Missing O rings are another thing but they are easily replaced. It's all a matter of adjustment and technique and once you get them down pat you will be cranking out thousands of perfectly usable bullets for a fraction of the price of store bought. I haven't bought any commercial bullets for my handguns, lead or jacketed, in years.
Next you will need to find a cheap source of lead!
John
Indeed. Lead is the bear. I have a few hundred pounds of old wheel weights and assorted lead to work through. If a person has to buy from any of the online sources I've found, the cost is pretty close to just buying cast bullets.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I have acquired good lead from several sources. The hardest for me to find was Pure Lead. I ended up with about 80 pounds of old drain lines, they were full of lime scale and stuff, but when I refined it is very pure. Wheel Weights, and Printing Type are also pretty consistent. Then there is range lead, you just never know what it is. So I "refine" my alloys into 1 pound ingots and stamp each with a word to tell me the alloy "Lead" is junk, "Pure", "WW", and "TYPE". I also stamp specific alloys with 40:1 (Lear : Tin) and other ratios.
This avoids all confusion.
Ivan
This avoids all confusion.
Ivan
gwpercle
Member
To stretch your supply of clip on wheel weights mix it 50-50 with soft lead or range scrap . This is an excellent alloy for cast bullets .
Search out local scrap yards , buying from them saves shipping cost .
Lead was used in construction , shower pans , X-Ray shielding , roof flashing and caps, this all goes to the scrap yards when houses are torn down or remodeled .
Visit the scrap yard enough and they get to know you and will save stuff for you .
Gary
Search out local scrap yards , buying from them saves shipping cost .
Lead was used in construction , shower pans , X-Ray shielding , roof flashing and caps, this all goes to the scrap yards when houses are torn down or remodeled .
Visit the scrap yard enough and they get to know you and will save stuff for you .
Gary
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Some sort of hardness tester and a good melt thermometer are a must. I've been using range lead and wheel weights for my cartridge bullets. Using a Lee hardness tester, I'm finding that range lead works out to 11-13 Brinell and that is good enough for most handgun applications. WWs will go much harder and, surprisingly, varies between 14 to over 20! When melting a batch of WWs I take care to not to get any zinc weights mixed in by carefully monitoring the temp. Keep it under well under 800 degrees F and the zinc will not melt but float.
I save any pure lead I find for my muzzle loaders.
The Cast Boolit website is a great resource for information on all aspects of casting yer own.
John
I save any pure lead I find for my muzzle loaders.
The Cast Boolit website is a great resource for information on all aspects of casting yer own.
John
Ivan the Butcher
Member
Hey Timetripper, thanks for the 800 degree tip for zinc Wheel Weights!
Ivan
Ivan
Even lower is better Ivan. TBH I thought zinc melted way above 900 F but I just did a wiki search which shows a melt point at around 787F.
When smelting your lead scrap into ingots it is a mistake to simply melt down every thing in a pot with uncontrolled heat. Keeping the temp controlled at 700-750 F will keep any zinc contaminates from melting with the lead and turning your batch into an unusable oatmeal like slush. While some zinc WWs are marked "Zn" others are not. Learned this from Cast Boolits.
John
When smelting your lead scrap into ingots it is a mistake to simply melt down every thing in a pot with uncontrolled heat. Keeping the temp controlled at 700-750 F will keep any zinc contaminates from melting with the lead and turning your batch into an unusable oatmeal like slush. While some zinc WWs are marked "Zn" others are not. Learned this from Cast Boolits.
John
gwpercle
Member
Zinc will melt under 800 degrees , Timetripper has it right ...more like 780 . I prefer to test each weight with side cutters .
If you get distracted and don't get the zinc floaters out the pot fast enough ...you have a messed up pot .
Side cutters don't lie !
No way to tell 100% by looking at them....I know this for a fact.
Gary
If you get distracted and don't get the zinc floaters out the pot fast enough ...you have a messed up pot .
Side cutters don't lie !
No way to tell 100% by looking at them....I know this for a fact.
Gary
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