M-1 Garand reloads

[Marshall 357]

I want to start reloading for my M-1. I have a RCBS press, should I get a 2 or 3 piece die set? What is a good target load? Any information about reloading or carring for this rifle would be great. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[dennis40x]

I believe the Sierra manual has a section for "gas gun" loading. The old stand by powder use to be IMR-4895.

 

[6thtexas]

I use IMR 4895 and a Sierra 168 gr. Matchking. When it comes to reloading, Garands are particular. I wouldn't use any powder slowing burner than 4064 or you could ultimately damage the rifle.

A standard RCBS FL 2 die set set works great

 

[rewster]

I have a 3 die set that includes a Lee Factory Crimp Die. Sierra recommeds powders in the medium-burning range such as IMR4895, IMR4064 and XMR-2495. They also mention that if you are using military brass you should reduce the load by 1 to 1 1/2 grains.

My plinking ammo is still surplus Korean PS75 or PS82 and Greek HXP. These are pretty accurate out to 200yds.

Handloads used for accuracy out to 200 yds are Sierra #2200 168gr SMK's in front of 47gr IMR4895 in once fired Lake City brass. The "trim to" length is 2.484 with a COL of 3.285 (or if measured to the ogive 2.686). All handloads for the M1 are crimped. According to Sierra the max is 49 grs.

You will have to determine what is best in your particular rifle. As usual you should work up the load in increments starting around 45 gr.

Good luck !!

All the usual disclaimers are included since this info applies to my M1's and mine alone

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

I just load 150 gn loads on the medium to low end. I won't hot rod a garand. The gun is too special. There are warnings of not using anything over 150gn loads as it will batter the operating rod.

 

[Marshall 357]

I have some IMR 4895 powder and Hornady 150 gr BTSP bullets that I use for my M-700 .308 I'll give it a try and see how it works. I dont want to ''hot rod'', the rifle either. I have been waiting along time to get one,and I want to keep it for a LONG TIME!!! Thanks

 

[H Richard]

If you are buying dies, you may want to consider Small Base dies. They re-size the base all the way down. Some Semi-auto rifles require that, but I haven't experienced that with my Garand.

 

[FrankD45]

I was just out to the range with my Garand yesterday. As mentioned above, I have found my best loads are built on IMR 4895 and 4064. Yesterday my 150 gr FMJBT over 48 gr of IMR 4064, the starting load in the Lyman 49th, produced the best groups. One other thing to keep in mind when loading for the Garand, or any other gas gun, is the fact that they employ a floating firing pin that will lightly strike the primer when chambering a round. The combination of a floating firing pin and a fragile primer, or one that is not seated properly, can cause a "slam fire" where the round will be fired before the breech is locked. This can be dangerous as well as startling. (Don't ask me how I know this.) I use CCI #34 mil-spec primers for my Garand and #41 in my AR clone. I also use a hand primer to assure that the primers are seated properly.

Good luck and enjoy shooting a great gun.

Frank

 

[borntoraisehogs]

M-1

A lot of what me and my friends thought we knew about the M-1 was not quite right . These folks will help .
Scott Duff is the M-1 man for me . The autographed paperback of his M-1 Garand Owners guide is not only a collectable even though it is bent an dirty , but it is about the best few bucks I ever spent on a gun book .
Scott Duff Publications & Historic Martial Arms: M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, M1903, Krag, M1911A1

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Ive had good luck useing 48.0 gr of Varget and a 147gr FMJ.

 

[Ron H.]

I want to start reloading for my M-1. I have a RCBS press, should I get a 2 or 3 piece die set? What is a good target load? Any information about reloading or carring for this rifle would be great. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Sir, the two-die RCBS set is fine. Stick with powders in the IMR 4895 to IMR 4064 range, bullets of 150 to 180 grains, and make sure your primers are seated below flush. GI brass typically requires about a 2-grain powder reduction from commercial data. Keep your velocities moderate: 2,700 to 2,800 fps with 150s and 2,500 to 2,600 fps with 168s and 175s.

FWIW, I've had good accuracy in my as-issued .30 M2 (.30-'06) rifles with 175-grain bullets with either 47.0 grains of IMR 4064 or 44.0 grains of IMR 4895, both in GI brass. In my heavy match .308 M1s, I've had excellent accuracy with 41.0 to 41.5 grains of IMR 4895 with either the Sierra 168 or 175 Match Kings, again in GI brass.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

 

[fredj338]

I just load 150 gn loads on the medium to low end. I won't hot rod a garand. The gun is too special. There are warnings of not using anything over 150gn loads as it will batter the operating rod.

Actually, the M1 will run fine w/ bullets from 130gr-180gr. Use the data form the Hornady manual specific to the M1 or reduce your load 6% or so from other data. The M1 runs great w/ powders n the 3031-IMR4320 range, slower powders pose problems w/ the pressure cureve & op rods. Same for using heavier bullets, messes w/ the pressure/recoil cycle & bad for the op rod. Small base dies may be useful, but not required. I would NOT use Fed. primers. Slam fires are not uncommon a/ a M1 or M1A & the Fed. primers are more sensative.