M-60 problem

[Dregg]

I recently picked up a M-60 for cheap (due to a problem). My intention was to use it for parts but, I'm thinking this would be a good specimen for me to tinker with.
The previous owner said the gun will dry fire with no problems but, once you load ammo in and shoot, it will bind up. He says "Squeezing the trigger in double action, the hammer will travel approx 1/8"-1/4" then binds."

I took the cylinder off and cleaned the face of the forcing cone and the face of the cylinder. I also cleaned behind the ejector star. I haven't had a chance to fire this gun yet to verify the problem. I took the smallest feeler gauge I currently have to measure the gap between the face of the cylinder and forcing cone. I can gently force a .008 gauge in between that gap. I think the actual measurement is close to .006.

What may be a problem with this little shooter?

 

[KAC]

If it fires one round and then binds up it may be experiencing primer setback. Check the firing pin bushing to see if it is flush with the recoil shield.

KAC

 

[Dregg]

If it fires one round and then binds up it may be experiencing primer setback. Check the firing pin bushing to see if it is flush with the recoil shield.

KAC

Thanks. Right now, it's flush.

 

[Hunt200]

Dang Dregg I see you are from my part of the woods. I saw that add after you said you would take it!!! I would have jumped all over that one.

 

[Dregg]

Dom,

You are correct. My initial intention was to use this for parts (I may still do that) but I figured, why not use this as a piece to learn basic gun-smithing. I'll try to sort out the problem if I can...if not, it'll be a "parts gun". The frame and side plate are in very decent shape for it's age but the cylinder is beat up. This is the perfect gun to learn on.

 

[Hunt200]

Dom,

You are correct. My initial intention was to use this for parts (I may still do that) but I figured, why not use this as a piece to learn basic gun-smithing. I'll try to sort out the problem if I can...if not, it'll be a "parts gun". The frame and side plate are in very decent shape for it's age but the cylinder is beat up. This is the perfect gun to learn on.

I would have done the same thing, I am looking for a cheap one to "play" with. I am sure you'll get the info you need to fix it from the guys here. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[H Richard]

Pull the side plate and see if the hammer block is correctly installed. Also check under the extractor star and clean any build up of gunk. There could be dirt, etc inside the gun depending on how it was used and cleaned or not cleaned. It is amazing what some people will do to guns. I bought a mod 15 for a very good price that didn't work quite right,and felt greasy. I pulled the side plate and it was completely filled with some white grease. Packed in tight like a wheel bearing!. Took me an hour to clean it all out and lube it properly (very little). Now runs like a fine watch and shoots great.

A friend LEO range master told me of a fellow officer (no names mentioned) years ago had a issue mod 66 that always looked immaculate. One day he brought it to the range master complaining it wouldn't fire, couldn't pull the trigger. He pulled the side plate and it was rusted solid inside. Asked how it could have possibly gotten this way, the officer admitted he would take the grips off and put the gun in the dishwasher to clean it. Yes, stainless will rust.

 

[Dregg]

Well, after a thorough cleaning, I will be headed to the range this week to shoot this lil' piece. I'll have a better idea of what's going on after that.

 

[shotguntom]

Dregg
sent you a PM.
Tom

 

[shotguntom]

Here is the gun of which Dregg speaks. I sold it to him.
Looks better in the pictures than in person.
Tom

 

[IRONVIC52]

Hi Dregg:

I bought a beater Model-60 for the same reason as you. It kinda sounds like the hand is binding or was maybe filed incorrectly during an action job?

My Model 60 would skip cylinder notches when the cylinder was closed. I'd close it and the cylinder would slide for a bit before finally clicking on the cylinder stop.

Because it was a pre-lock Model-60 no dash and you rarely see older snubs in my area, I kept it. I went out and got 2 books on revolver smithing and a video by Jerry Miculek on tearing down the Model-10 and putting it back together again.

I found out the little Smith was filled with thick, black, pasty powder residue. Turned out that the spring that actuated the cylinder stop was crammed with the stuff and the stop's spring recess ditto. And I found out that the gun's innards were nicely polished by a revolver smith who knew what he was doing. She's a slick little shooter now. So I got to kill 2 birds with one stone. Since then I've also stripped down my Model 10-5 for a thorough lube and clean, and it certainly gets easier every time I do it.

I always wanted a beater gun to work on, but always seemed to walk out of the shop with something else I "had to have," instead. I bought my first S&W revolver in 1979 and I guess you're never too old to learn something new.

 

[Dregg]

Thanks everyone for the advice. Like I said, this gun will make a learner out of me. I'll experiment and gain knowledge from tinkering with this troubled piece.
I plan to shoot it later in the week and go from there.

Worse case scenario is, it'll become a parts gun.

 

[Dregg]

Ok, took it to the range and noted the following:

100 rounds yielded these results.

I randomly numbered each cylinder with a black magic marker. Loaded it up, fired, and took notes.

Out of 20 times (shooting session of 5 rounds at a time), #5 cylinder showed signs of "sticking" (hard trigger pull) 10 times. Cylinder #3 showed signs of sticking on 4 occasions, and cylinder #4, only once.

What do you guys think of this?

 

[shotguntom]

Dregg,
Curious if within those 20 sets of 5, shooting double action, the gun bound, where you couldnt pull the trigger completely, as it did to me? I too noted certain chambers would "stick" as you put it. Other times you may get thru a complete 5 shots without incident.
Would be very interested in peoples thoughts also.
Tom

 

[Dregg]

Tom,

Gun never totally locked up on a double action trigger pull. Took it apart again today and noted a bent ejector rod. I saw a video on how to straighten it out but I would need a dial indicator. I'll pick up one from "Harbor Freight" and straighten out the rod to see if that cures the problem. I had the side plate off today also and everything looked normal to me. This lil' revolver could use a trigger work-over but, not until I sort out this problem.

 

[shotguntom]

Tom,

Gun never totally locked up on a double action trigger pull. Took it apart again today and noted a bent ejector rod. I saw a video on how to straighten it out but I would need a dial indicator. I'll pick up one from "Harbor Freight" and straighten out the rod to see if that cures the problem. I had the side plate off today also and everything looked normal to me. This lil' revolver could use a trigger work-over but, not until I sort out this problem.

I had the side plate off a few times to try different rebound springs, and a lighter hammer spring. Didnt help, other than a lighter, smoother pull. The problem never disappeared. I reinstalled the original springs.
One spring I didnt try replacing was the cylinder stop spring. May help, but I didnt have one handy. I have confidence you will resurrect this little 60. Hope you can get the ejector rod straightened.
Tom

 

[Dregg]

Tom,

Do you still have that spring set? If so, i'll buy them from you.

 

[shotguntom]

Tom,

Do you still have that spring set? If so, i'll buy them from you.

Joe,
I have about 5 other J frames I may/can use them on, so I am going to keep it. You can get them from Brownells or Midway. really pretty inexpensive. I think I paid about $9 for the J Frame kit. 3 different weight rebound springs and a reduced power main spring in the kit. Worth buying a couple of sets. Hey, you never know what gun you may come across.
Keep us posted on any results on the gun.
Tom