M/63 cylinder binding

[hatchdog]

Here's a strange one...

I picked up a no dash 63 some time ago but did not fire it until this week. When I first got it and gave it a good cleaning I noticed that the extractor rod would stick leaving the extractor about a half inch from the cylinder. I gave it a good cleaning and applied a bit of Break Free and it freed up nicely and I didn't give it another thought. While firing it this week it again bound up several times, but other times it moved freely. After messing with it for a bit I discovered that when open, if I turned the cylinder clockwise (from the rear) it would bind up and the rod would stick. When I turned the cylinder counter clock wise it would free up. In fact, I could turn it clockwise and bind the rod, and then just by turning the cylinder counter clock wise the rod would snap back into place.

Anybody else ever had this happen? And if so, what did you do. I do plan on dropping it off at a local gunsmith who is a S&W armorer for repair but I am curious if anybody else has had this happen.

 

[armorer951]

Lots of possibilities here including a loose extractor rod, or runout on the rod itself....dirt or debris inside the cylinder assembly or yoke, bent or damaged extractor spring, improper gauge or irregularities inside the barrel of the yoke. The list goes on and on.

Since it's binding one direction and not the other I would guess it's a spring/debris issue.

 

[chief38]

I'll guess it's a bent Ejector Rod. Spin the cylinder and you can actually see how much run-out it has. Most have some minor run out, but excess run-out causes binding.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...K7ibu9Gj-MDAZxmBMyfFRJTw&ust=1454018602287281

Larry uses a lathe and a run out gauge but a Drill Press's Chuck will also work fine. Run-out gauges greatly help, but most guys can see it good enough with their eyes to get it within working tolerances. Rolling it along a flat piece of glass can help see the direction of run-out also.

 

[H Richard]

I also think a bent ejector rod or possibly a cross threaded rod. When putting the rod together the threads are extremely fine, and it is possible to mis-align at the start and when forced together will be at a slight angle. If this it will require replacement.

 

[Terry]

When I went through S & W Armorers school for Revolvers they issued a round and square bar of lead, and a small block of wood that looks like a door stop. We laid the revolver with the cylinder open flat on a table top, the block of wood under the ejector rod to help determine the the high spot of the rod then tap the rod with the round lead bar and continue this procedure until it ran true.

The lead bars were used because it will not mar the finish. From what you have said my first thoughts are a bent ejector rod, loose ejector rod or possible cylinder crane out of alignment.

 

[hatchdog]

The local gunsmith took a look at my 63 and it's good as new. He was able to lap and hone the extractor rod which made it smooth as glass and the extractor no longer sticks no matter how the cylinder is turned. He did mention there was an issue with the spring but I don't remember exactly what he said so I won't guess. I have yet to fire it but I am optimistically thinking my issue is fixed! Thank you all for your input, your knowledge is appreciated.

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