M&p 10 sport

G116649

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Anyone have one, I am looking to get an ar 10 and saw this one on the s&w website, but I can't find any reviews on it. Price looks pretty good.
 
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Nice attitude.:(
Expecting instant reply?
Give it some time.

This new Sport version wasn't on the S&W web site 4 weeks ago. I doubt anyone has gotten one yet.
Generally a lower price reflects the use of lower qualiity components, the barrel appears to be different than the other MP10s.
 
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Not exactly 1000's of people monitoring the M&P 10 section...have a little patience.

I knew nothing about the Sport until your post. Doubt it's on the street yet. List is $600 less than an non-sport model so it is likely assembled with a lesser component grade much like the M&P 15 Sport.

I really wish S&W would have distinguished the Sport line from the other rifle lines....nothing wrong with a "value" orientated product just distinguish the line.
 
When I went to S&W the MP10 Sport they have listed is at msrp $1049.00.

By appearances looks pretty much like the one I got except the sport has a 16" barrel vs 18" and it has a different flash suppressor. For chuckles I clicked "buy now" and when I went to the S&W store it was listed "out of stock".

Typical of most companies is to spin the marketing section up to start advertising before production kicks in.
 
Interesting. I recently bought the 811308 model off GB at a killer price. Last week a LGS in my area recently received 4 M&P 10s and was selling them for $900. I wondered if there was a different model available that I was not aware of.
 
This is the first I've heard of a Sport model for the M&P10. When I bought mine, they were selling for $1,400. No buyer's remorse but $900 sounds much better than $1,400.

The only thing I might have negative to say is that I'm not sure a 16" barrel is a good thing with the .308 round. There might be too much energy and velocity loss with a barrel that short.
 
Close Quarters

I want a short fast handling semi auto capable of hitting targets out to 50 yards. Has to be functional, light.

This is the first I've heard of a Sport model for the M&P10. When I bought mine, they were selling for $1,400. No buyer's remorse but $900 sounds much better than $1,400.

The only thing I might have negative to say is that I'm not sure a 16" barrel is a good thing with the .308 round. There might be too much energy and velocity loss with a barrel that short.
 
I want a short fast handling semi auto capable of hitting targets out to 50 yards. Has to be functional, light.

Well, that will fit the bill then, though I wouldn't call the M&P10 light. It's a good rifle but not light, no .308 chambered rifle is.

It depends on your priorities but an AR15 with a 14.5" barrel with a pinned muzzle device or a 16" barreled rifle might be better for the lightness factor. I'm not dissing the rifle, I love my 18" model but 2 inches less on the barrel isn't going to make much of a difference in weight. If you plan on using it for hogs or something that needs a heavier bullet, then the M&P10 might be the best choice.
 
$800 and change new, been waiting for a couple weeks now.
Kodiak bear on your porch weapon,
bear trying to take your deer weapon,
etc...
Well, that will fit the bill then, though I wouldn't call the M&P10 light. It's a good rifle but not light, no .308 chambered rifle is.

It depends on your priorities but an AR15 with a 14.5" barrel with a pinned muzzle device or a 16" barreled rifle might be better for the lightness factor. I'm not dissing the rifle, I love my 18" model but 2 inches less on the barrel isn't going to make much of a difference in weight. If you plan on using it for hogs or something that needs a heavier bullet, then the M&P10 might be the best choice.
 
$800 and change new, been waiting for a couple weeks now.

Kodiak bear on your porch weapon,

bear trying to take your deer weapon,

etc...



Yep, .308 it is then. An AR15 would just make it mad. Unless you got one chambered in .458 SOCOM or one of the larger bores. .458 has the same ballistics and energy of a .45/70 Government round but in a smaller package with modern powders. Expensive rounds though...

Then there is .45 Raptor but you are back into the AR10 platform due to cartridge length. So, .308 is probably the best bang for the buck.


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training ammo

Another thing to think about is cost and availability of ammo,
seems 308 is available and reasonable. I want to train a lot.
Yep, .308 it is then. An AR15 would just make it mad. Unless you got one chambered in .458 SOCOM or one of the larger bores. .458 has the same ballistics and energy of a .45/70 Government round but in a smaller package with modern powders. Expensive rounds though...

Then there is .45 Raptor but you are back into the AR10 platform due to cartridge length. So, .308 is probably the best bang for the buck.


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Yep. I would stick with brass though. While not as common as other rounds, steel casings are hard on rifles and can't be reloaded. That is just personal opinion though. I stick with bulk ammo for range and practice purposes. The best prices I've found is about $0.60 a round that way. You can probably go cheaper if you reload.


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Bump, for anyone with hands on experience with this rifle. Been thinking about an AR10 for 2-3 years, but just unsure about that kind of investment.
 
Hi Guys,
So, I've had my M&P 10 for about three months now. Got a great deal through Grab-a-gun down in Texas. The rifle functions well. No issues with loading/ejection of spent brass, but I do have two issues I don't know what to do about.

The biggest issue I am facing is that my first rounds land high, by as much as 6-8", coming down an inch or two each shot, until I have 4 or 5 rounds through the barrel. Then, I assume as the barrel warms up, it stays accurate. I can group sub-moa easily once I get the first several rounds through. Any thoughts as to why this is happening, or how to fix it?

For the record, I broke in the barrel as if it was match grade.

My second problem is that either during the loading or ejection process, the brass is getting a rub mark that is large enough that it makes me question using it for reloading. Again, any thoughts on how to make this go away?
 
Hi Guys,
So, I've had my M&P 10 for about three months now. Got a great deal through Grab-a-gun down in Texas. The rifle functions well. No issues with loading/ejection of spent brass, but I do have two issues I don't know what to do about.

The biggest issue I am facing is that my first rounds land high, by as much as 6-8", coming down an inch or two each shot, until I have 4 or 5 rounds through the barrel. Then, I assume as the barrel warms up, it stays accurate. I can group sub-moa easily once I get the first several rounds through. Any thoughts as to why this is happening, or how to fix it?

For the record, I broke in the barrel as if it was match grade.

My second problem is that either during the loading or ejection process, the brass is getting a rub mark that is large enough that it makes me question using it for reloading. Again, any thoughts on how to make this go away?



For the first question, it could be barrel movement during warm up of the barrel but that is a pretty large shift. Since you didn't mention, I'm guessing this is at 100 yards.

Another possibility, do you clean your barrel after every range session? If so, re-fouling of the barrel until it gets to a certain point could be a contributor. Tibaurasaurus Rex on Youtube talks about that in his long rand shooting series. But even then there shouldn't be that big of a shift.

It might be worth giving S&W a call about it. My non-sport model dosen't do that. As a guess, the barrel wasn't processed properly during manufacture.

For the marks on the rounds. What kind of magazine(s) are you using? If steel ASC magazines, the metal lips can do that. Some have smoothed down the lips on the magazine to fix the issue. Others went with a polymer magazine like Magpul to fix the issue. My ASC mags do that but not enough to cause a concern for reloading.

This assuming your feed ramps and chamber are in good condition.


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Thanks, sgtdsandman,

Good questions. I clean my rifles after every trip to the range. I used the "Speedy Gonzales" method of barrel break-in. I use a Tipton cleaning rod.

You are correct that this is happening at 100 yds. Given my experience with the rifle, I have not moved out beyond that distance. I'm using magpul magazines, both 10 & 20 round capacity. Nosler match grade ammo. It is my suspicion that the feed ramps are causing the scuffing on the brass. They are, I believe, standard M2 ramps.

I will call Smith & Wesson about the barrel. 6-8" is a huge change, especially to take place over such a short number of rounds fired.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
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