I use eezox on mine mostly for it's awesome protection against rust. When I shoot it I put lube on the bolt and the bcg so it runs on the wet side (but not dripping). For the wet lube I'm going through my supplu of slip 2000, but that stuff is expensive. After I use up all of that stuff I'll start using Mobil 1. Almost everyone seems to have their own method. Mine works for me so it's what I do.
M&P 15 Bolt Lubrication Question ?
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I'm an Amsoil guy! I use it in my truck and my motorcycles. Amsoil vs Mobil 1, a different conversation for a different forum!
As for AR15's, I've used CLP, Rem oil, Hoppes, and now Amsoil 5W30. They will all work just fine. As others have said, the BCG does NOT need to be dripping wet!! Extra lube is extra dirt/crud/grime collection. I cannot stop the BCG from going into battery, no matter how much I try by riding the charging handle.
As for AR15's, I've used CLP, Rem oil, Hoppes, and now Amsoil 5W30. They will all work just fine. As others have said, the BCG does NOT need to be dripping wet!! Extra lube is extra dirt/crud/grime collection. I cannot stop the BCG from going into battery, no matter how much I try by riding the charging handle.
Kadonny
Member
+1 on Mobil 1.
JaPes
Member
I've used:
The "which lubricant to use" question usually degenerates into arguments based upon opinion and personal preference. This is just my own opinion. As civilians practicing on a one-way range it leaves us the luxury to try out different lubricants and discover our own personal preference. Due to my own circumstance, I've never been able to shoot more than 300 rounds in a single range session. I field strip and clean after every session.
Breakfree, Mobil 1, and Outer's work fine. TW25B light grease does attract more fouling, but works. Ballistol also works, but is hygroscopic. I do not use Ballistol for long term storage. I've run a standard phosphate coated BCG from sloppy wet to almost dry. My preference is for a light coat of lubricant. It is my experience that a light coating does the job and makes for easier cleaning.
Heaven forbid that I ever find myself in a Red Dawn worthy scenario. If so, I'll use whatever oil is on hand to keep my rifle running. The can of good old Breakfree CLP will do the trick all the time. If you are truly concerned about bolt lubrication and cleaning, consider a Nickel-Boron treated BCG such as a Fail Zero BCG.
- Breakfree CLP
- Mobil 1
- Outers Gun Oil
- Ballistol
- TW25B
The "which lubricant to use" question usually degenerates into arguments based upon opinion and personal preference. This is just my own opinion. As civilians practicing on a one-way range it leaves us the luxury to try out different lubricants and discover our own personal preference. Due to my own circumstance, I've never been able to shoot more than 300 rounds in a single range session. I field strip and clean after every session.
Breakfree, Mobil 1, and Outer's work fine. TW25B light grease does attract more fouling, but works. Ballistol also works, but is hygroscopic. I do not use Ballistol for long term storage. I've run a standard phosphate coated BCG from sloppy wet to almost dry. My preference is for a light coat of lubricant. It is my experience that a light coating does the job and makes for easier cleaning.
Heaven forbid that I ever find myself in a Red Dawn worthy scenario. If so, I'll use whatever oil is on hand to keep my rifle running. The can of good old Breakfree CLP will do the trick all the time. If you are truly concerned about bolt lubrication and cleaning, consider a Nickel-Boron treated BCG such as a Fail Zero BCG.
raymo2u
Member
Yes or how else would pristine 100+yr old rifles still be around? 3 in 1 oil was crude back in the day but it did as intended and saved many firearms and help them run right, use what you have...but the key is not to over or under lube.
And hello Jepas, didnt think I'd see you on the S&W forum.
And hello Jepas, didnt think I'd see you on the S&W forum.
JaPes
Member
raymo2u said:
Hi Ray! I'm on a few forums. I've owned a few different firearms over the years. Good to see ya here.
Little Creek
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Kroil is a "penetrating" oil. In the old days of revolvers, WD40 was popular for a while for LE, but fell out of favor because it caused misfires when it "penetrated" the primers of guns left wet and loaded. Just sayin.
raymo2u
Member
Ive noticed with my R/C Trucks that WD40 when exposed to water can actually accelerate rust. I stopped using it after i noticed that. For my firearms i use Rem Oil when they sit and SlideGlide when they play.....has anyone had good experience with gun butter?
JaPes
Member
^ If you don't want to over think it, Breakfree CLP works every time for almost every situation.
rojodiablo
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Funny to say it, but not enough WD40 was used. It does a great job at it's namesake...Water Displacer, formula #40.
If the WD was not blasted in to clear away the water....... it will trap that water, and if the water can not evaporate, you are dead right; you are going to become a rust farmer quickly.
WD40- use a little. Or, a Lottle. Anything else is not the way to do it.
Gun butter is ok, I use it from time to time on pistols. For the AR, light oils are ideal.
rojodiablo
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I buy various cans of lubes and the like for our shop.
Kroil is great stuff, but Holy Smokes, it is EXPENSIVE.
We don't run that stuff unless we need to break bolts loose. Not at $11 a can.
Yes; our case price tends to be about $11 a can. Brutal.
CatSnipah
Member
Depends on what else I'm cleaning when I break down my AR.
I've used CLP, Hoppes, or a light coating of Slide Glide (if I'm also cleaning my Sig pistol).
It really matters not, as long as you use SOMETHING and understand that greases and certain oils may attract more dirt/carbon powder, and you react appropriately.
I've used CLP, Hoppes, or a light coating of Slide Glide (if I'm also cleaning my Sig pistol).
It really matters not, as long as you use SOMETHING and understand that greases and certain oils may attract more dirt/carbon powder, and you react appropriately.
raymo2u
Member
Ive never heard of kroil, something you could get at walmart?
CatSnipah, your right about that. Ive run out of wet oils before and only had graphite dry lube. Its really messy but itll make metal slide like a dream for a temporary fix, do not use prolonged on aluminum!
But the graphite worked, but it doesnt repel water and that and being messy and it can build up in crevices, should ONLYbe used for temporary fixes or where neccessary
CatSnipah, your right about that. Ive run out of wet oils before and only had graphite dry lube. Its really messy but itll make metal slide like a dream for a temporary fix, do not use prolonged on aluminum!
But the graphite worked, but it doesnt repel water and that and being messy and it can build up in crevices, should ONLYbe used for temporary fixes or where neccessary
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ASTMedic
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A tip when doing automotive body work is using WD40 to prevent rusting on bare metal. If you sanded a body panel and it has to sit bare for a while wipe it down with WD40. Just be sure to remove it before painting.
I run gun butter on all my handguns. It's thin but not too thin. I also have their grease. It's more of a thick oil than a true grease. I really like it.
On my AR I clean the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. Once things are dry I spray lightly with ReOil and let it dry. Wipe the outside with Ezzox and good to go.
raymo2u
Member
Good tip but i usually will use a spray primer as a last resort if i have to do autobody, that was my last job before being a computer tech but i couldnt stand the managment and the rates they paid.
Ive never thought of using a ultrasonic cleaner for parts, now thats a tip
Ive never thought of using a ultrasonic cleaner for parts, now thats a tip
ASTMedic
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I do that with all my guns. Strip them down and spray them with the solvent I use for a soak and then drop them in the ultrasonic. I love that the one I bought has a heater to get the water nice and hot. Makes drying really easy. Some canned air to spray water out of the tight spots and then spray down with the RemOil and assemble.
raymo2u
Member
That hornady hot tub sonic cleaner might be my next purchase, sure did look useful
JaPes
Member
An ultrasonic cleaning machine is very useful. I detail strip firearms and clean the small parts in the ultrasonic. All the old lubricant and grime comes right off. I also use it to clean cases for reloading.
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you can get the same heated ultrasonic cleaner for less. Wait for a sale & combine coupons. I got mine for $30.
The only real difference is that the Chicago Electric branded cleaner's timer maxes out at 490 seconds. All I do is check on it, and reset the timer.
raymo2u
Member
Theres not one close but i order from them all the time, almost every tool i own is from HF. What are the dimensions on the cage Jepas? big enough to clean a broke down KSG or just pistols?
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