I have a basic version I think it was originally the A model with the carry handle its not a bad pull wt but not the greatest either. The S&W website says the 811000 basic version is 7 lbs appox,But none of the rest of the AR's showing on the website say the trigger pull. I got a new MOE version and took it out to shoot and the trigger feels way heavier. Dont have a trigger pull scale so was wondering if its just me or do the newer rifles have a heavier pull?
M&P 15 Trigger Pull
- Thread starter SoCoRuss
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I never put a scale on them, but both sports (2010 1:8 5R & 2013 1:9) I've had were standard (by standard I mean really bad) AR triggers. Unless they come upgraded, they all suck in stock form.
The best upgrade I've ever made was the Geissele trigger.
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The best upgrade I've ever made was the Geissele trigger.
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MichiganScott
Member
The original version with the carry handle was known as simply the M&P15. The version with a front sight tower and folding BUIS was known as the M&P15A.
My wife has one of the original M&P15's that was early enough in production that it was probably made by Stagg. Her trigger breaks like glass, but the pull weight is about 7 lbs. I have an early M&P15A and my trigger was junk, almost like a double action revolver. I replaced it with a RRA match.
My wife has one of the original M&P15's that was early enough in production that it was probably made by Stagg. Her trigger breaks like glass, but the pull weight is about 7 lbs. I have an early M&P15A and my trigger was junk, almost like a double action revolver. I replaced it with a RRA match.
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Standard GI trigger is terrible, and I would highly recommend the ALG ACT trigger with JP yellow springs. You can run this trigger group for around $75 and it will yield a trigger pull of 3-4 lbs. with super crisp action.
JaPes
Member
Pop your stock trigger group out polish it. Install a set of JP Enterprises reduced power trigger springs and you'll be good to go.
ChattanoogaPhil
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The light JP springs are fine for a range toy but be prepared for light strikes.
As far as the trigger feel, I put the JP on my 1522. It was lighter mush. If you want a light, crisp, creep free and reliable trigger you'll have to pay.
As far as the trigger feel, I put the JP on my 1522. It was lighter mush. If you want a light, crisp, creep free and reliable trigger you'll have to pay.
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The military spec for the AR trigger is 5.5 to something like 8 lbs (manual at home, I'm not). So for rack/service grade AR pattern rifles, anywhere in there is "acceptable".
Actually, the quality of the trigger action is much more important than the weight. With practice, one can learn to preload the trigger to a point where an acceptable additional weight fires it when you want it to. Kind of like rolling a double action revolver. You can do very good work with a crisp stock trigger, but it takes some work on your part.
If you have any intention to use the rifle for anything but a range toy, go crisp but keep the weight 5 lbs and up.
Actually, the quality of the trigger action is much more important than the weight. With practice, one can learn to preload the trigger to a point where an acceptable additional weight fires it when you want it to. Kind of like rolling a double action revolver. You can do very good work with a crisp stock trigger, but it takes some work on your part.
If you have any intention to use the rifle for anything but a range toy, go crisp but keep the weight 5 lbs and up.
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SmokeStack Lightning
Member
I replaced both TGs in my 15/22 and M&P "T" with CNCs and KNS anti walk/rotation pins.
Drop in replacements. Took 5 minutes to install.
My "T" was breaking at 7.5lbs with OE, the 15/22 broke at 8.2.
With the CNC TG both now break @2.lb-11oz.
Now my two weapons feel similar in most regards.
I recently got a M & P 15 Sport, and I must say that the trigger pull is better than any of my other ARs that I have owned. That would be mostly old Bushys and my Stag. Mine shoots great and the trigger pull is not a problem. I don not alter my ARs, except for sights, in the event I have to use one for a SD situation. They all run fine, and will shoot minute-of-bad guy at range.
spad124
Member
I bought my Sport in October 2013. The trigger isn't too bad. My Yugo SKS has the worst trigger I've ever used(but that gun is fun in other ways!). My Sport's trigger has creep, but is getting better the more I shoot it. Maybe it is just polishing up as JaPes suggests. Is it a target trigger? No. But it's not meant to be.
thousands of rounds downrange, on two rigs running JP yellows and not one issue......you've had issues? My buddy is running yellows on his Rock River stage 2 with zero issues as well, and he is a range junky.
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robkarrob
Member
I put a Rock River 2 stage Match trigger group in mine. It breaks cleanly at 3.5-4 pounds. I would recommend it to anyone.
I to went with the rock island 2 stage trigger. But I went back to the stock trigger that I polished up I just am used to it and couldn't justify the extra money for the minimal diffrence (2 stage) both are good but if you want great save your money and get high end drop in
White Oak Precision - Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is your opinion of single stage AR triggers?
A: You will never get a single stage trigger on an AR that will stand up to the constant use of a competitive HP rifle unless it has a lot of creep, and I don't think you want that. The ONLY way to reduce creep in any of the single stage AR triggers is by reducing sear engagement. By time you get the sear engagement to the point that you do not have any noticable creep, you do not have enough left for reliability. For the casual shooter who shoots 500 rounds a year, or for the guy who likes to shoot little groups off a bench and can readjust his trigger ever shooting session, that may be fine. However, the HP shooter needs a trigger that breaks the same every time, and a trigger that can make it through at least two weeks of the nationals, preferably a whole season, without having to tinker with it. Also, if you get the creep down to a point where you do not have any perceivable trigger movement when you break the shot, the safety is not going to be reliable. The safety in an AR blocks trigger movement, not the hammer. If you only have .010" of trigger movement, then you are going to have to have the safety within .010 of the trigger when in the safe position. This is a little tougher than just removing the safety.
This is good insight from a company that produces some of the best competition barrels and uppers in the country.
Q: What is your opinion of single stage AR triggers?
A: You will never get a single stage trigger on an AR that will stand up to the constant use of a competitive HP rifle unless it has a lot of creep, and I don't think you want that. The ONLY way to reduce creep in any of the single stage AR triggers is by reducing sear engagement. By time you get the sear engagement to the point that you do not have any noticable creep, you do not have enough left for reliability. For the casual shooter who shoots 500 rounds a year, or for the guy who likes to shoot little groups off a bench and can readjust his trigger ever shooting session, that may be fine. However, the HP shooter needs a trigger that breaks the same every time, and a trigger that can make it through at least two weeks of the nationals, preferably a whole season, without having to tinker with it. Also, if you get the creep down to a point where you do not have any perceivable trigger movement when you break the shot, the safety is not going to be reliable. The safety in an AR blocks trigger movement, not the hammer. If you only have .010" of trigger movement, then you are going to have to have the safety within .010 of the trigger when in the safe position. This is a little tougher than just removing the safety.
This is good insight from a company that produces some of the best competition barrels and uppers in the country.
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