M&P 2.0 10mm: The Good, The Bad & The WTH?

[Tom S.]

By the way, WTH = What The Heck????

I bought a brand new M&P 2.0 10mm a few weeks back because with the S&W rebate, I thought it was a good deal. The rebate process was "OK". I filled out the online form and attached PDF's of both the receipt and box end label. Two days later I received a email saying the rebate couldn't be processed because it lacked documentation. Say what??? Went back to the website, spoke with "Juan" via chat who, after a few minutes said he "found" the documentation and everything would proceed. Alrighty then!

Out of the box, the gun looked good but the trigger was horrible. The long pull was expected, the feeling of 5 pounds of sand and a 'hitch' before releasing wasn't. The store I bought it from has a "trigger locks will not be removed until the gun is on it's way out the door" policy, so it wasn't something I could try before hand. Bad triggers can usually be taken care of via the aftermarket and Apex has a nice, albeit pricey replacement that promises to 'cure what ails ya'. I ordered one and I put it in today. Installation wasn't difficult thanks to Apex's online video's. How various manufacturer's design their products is always of interest and I have to say S&W's design of this gun is no exception. Some of the parts are cheesy and cheap but not to the point where I would recommend against purchasing the model. Installed, the Apex made a magical transformation. Some of the take up was removed but more importantly, the "rocks in the works" feeling was gone and the trigger broke at a much lighter/cleaner pull. Mission one accomplished.

Mission two: old eyes make red dots almost mandatory and since the pistol came red-dot-ready, I bought a Burris Fastfire. Here's where things got ugly and WTH was encountered. Screw number 1 holding the factory sight base cover plate came loose, no sweat. Screw number 2 wasn't budging. The teeny-tiny allen wrench promptly rounded the hole. Arrrgh. Having had similar situations, I found a Torx bit that was snug enough it required a rap to seat. I proceeded to heat the screw up with my soldering station - set to 750 degrees. 4 minutes later, I tapped in the Torx and.... it too stripped, making the once hex hole round. Arrrgh again! Back to the soldering station with a small ez-out stuck in a tap handle. 4 more minutes of heat and a lot of pressure, the screw finally broke free.

Alas, the tale of woe is not yet done. Although the threads in the hole appear fine (well, actually they are coarse), the screws used to hold the sight and adapter plate won't thread into that one hole. So operation Red Dot is now on hold until I can find my 6-32 tap to chase the threads and make they good again. <SIGH>

So, the Good: Gun is reasonably priced and comes with all the adapter plates needed for a red dot sight.

The Bad: The trigger, obviously but that is ea$ily fixed.

The WTH: What the heck happened to that screw? Had the ezout failed, I had visions of cutting off the plastic cover and using vice grips (no, not really!) or sending it back to Mother-ship and listen to them chide me for 'boogering up' the screw.

All this and I still can't say how it shoots because of a stupid screw hole! Stay tuned....

 

[BRL40]

By the way, WTH = What The Heck???...

...right.

Well written story though, best of luck to you.

 

[BenU]

I have another WTH.... The supplied plastic mounting plates do not hold up to the 10mm 2.0, at all. Here's some more bad news, nobody makes a metal mounting plate for the Burris Fastfire. Burris actually list a metal mounting plate for the M&P 2.0 but it is concave on the bottom. Oh, how I hope someone proves me wrong but I could not find a metal mounting plate for the M&P 2.0 / Burris combo.

Another thing, the tall sights are great for bore sighting the RD. The bad, the tall sights make finding a holster a real challenge, the sights hang up on everything.

I really like Smith and Wesson. I own a few M&P's and a 629. The 10mm 2.0 has been a learning experience for me but I think it will work out in the end.

Oh, I had trouble with the back screw on the cover plate. I could tell it wanted to cross- thread, I got lucky. Good luck!

 

[Bill Lear]

All you who are able to just walk into a store and buy an M&P 10mm should consider how small your after purchase problems really are compared to those of us who can't buy one in the first place.
One day soon I hope to hear the good news that the Roster is no more...

 

[LVSteve]

Wait, I thought the M&P 2.0 trigger was supposed to be much better than the original. What are they doing to louse it up again? Is somebody in the S&W trigger department being paid off by Apex?

 

[Tom S.]

I have another WTH.... The supplied plastic mounting plates do not hold up to the 10mm 2.0, at all. Here's some more bad news, nobody makes a metal mounting plate for the Burris Fastfire. Burris actually list a metal mounting plate for the M&P 2.0 but it is concave on the bottom. Oh, how I hope someone proves me wrong but I could not find a metal mounting plate for the M&P 2.0 / Burris combo.

Another thing, the tall sights are great for bore sighting the RD. The bad, the tall sights make finding a holster a real challenge, the sights hang up on everything.

I really like Smith and Wesson. I own a few M&P's and a 629. The 10mm 2.0 has been a learning experience for me but I think it will work out in the end.

Oh, I had trouble with the back screw on the cover plate. I could tell it wanted to cross- thread, I got lucky. Good luck!

I'm surprised to hear the mounting plate doesn't hold up. Plastics today are not the same as the plastics of my childhood with some being borderline indestructible.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Ouch...sorry to hear that you've had such troubles. I guess I was very fortunate with my M&P 10mm. No F2F or mag drop issues, or problems with the mounting plate and my Holosun 507C. I also like the flat trigger on mine, and it's gotten even smoother after some dry firing and 500 rounds down range. However, I still may upgrade to an Apex sometime down the road. Good luck!

 

[DonD]

I have the 4.6" barreled M&P 10mm.

Haven't even been close to experiencing an uncommanded mag drop.

Bad trigger? To me the OP must be comparing a striker fired gun to a nice 1911. Trigger works just fine for me, though as the preceding sentence says, no 1911.

Gun has been very reliable other than an occasional failure to feed but only with the Underwood 220gr hard cast. Have heavier mag springs that I'm hopefull will cure that.

And as I'm a power junkie (own two S&W 500 Mags) this M&P, despite having a 0.4" shorter barrel than a Ruger SR1911 10mm I had, the M&P is faster over the chronograph.

1499 fps/773ft lbs with Underwood 155gr JHPs
1176 fps/676ft lbs with Underwood 220gr hard cast.

Suspect the 220 robs the case of powder space, thus lower velocity than might be expected.

I'm pleased my M&P resides in my safe. Don

 

[kamloops67]

All you who are able to just walk into a store and buy an M&P 10mm should consider how small your after purchase problems really are compared to those of us who can't buy one in the first place.
One day soon I hope to hear the good news that the Roster is no more...

“ …those of us that can’t buy one in the first place …”
As a Canadian reading this thread , I whole heartedly agree
Be thankful you can even buy a handgun
Maybe we will be able to again one day ,but I’m not holding my breath

 

[Ethang]

I am not a fan of the mounting plates on any of them. Dealing with a Shield plus and the plate options are not what I would call good..

Try the direct mount SCS from Holosun. I am playing with one now and it shows promise. Will work with the standard height sights.

 

[Gman556]

I had the same issue with my 10mm 4.6" and finally got the screw out so I could take off the cover plate but my threads were fine.

Before you take a tap to those threads I would get a strong magnifier and light to check them out, because all my screws went in a little stiff at first due to the finish on the screws.

Yup, my trigger on mine sucks too and I probably will be replacing it with an apex eventually. Mine has about 6 miles of over travel.

It's funny because the one on my 9 mm has very little over travel and is smooth now that I polished the plunger. All I feel now is the trigger bar clicking up over the slight bevel on the plunger until it reaches the flat surface which is just maybe a thousandth or two before the wall. Not sure if I'm going to replace that one with an apex or not.

 

[Flyingfool]

I am no expert, by any means.

But I think from reading here for some time. One should really not make a judgement as to replacing or modifying the factory trigger until at least 500 to 1,000 dry or live fires have been accomplished. If not satisfied with the trigger after that, then make decision to polish or replace etc.

Just food for thought YMMV

 

[Tom S.]

Bad trigger? To me the OP must be comparing a striker fired gun to a nice 1911. Trigger works just fine for me, though as the preceding sentence says, no 1911.

I am comparing it to the 3 Glocks, 1 FN, 1 Sig, 1 Sigma and 1 other MP 2.0 EZ I own or have owned. No, I am not comparing it to a 1911. Perhaps you should re-read my post. As stated, the traditional long travel was expected. What wasn't expected was the gritty feel and the noticeable hitch or catch a bit before the release point. None of the above mentioned pistols had the last two mentioned qualities and if these qualities are considered 'sop' for striker fired pistols, I must have been blessed in previous purchases.

 

[Gman556]

I am no expert, by any means.

But I think from reading here for some time. One should really not make a judgement as to replacing or modifying the factory trigger until at least 500 to 1,000 dry or live fires have been accomplished. If not satisfied with the trigger after that, then make decision to polish or replace etc.

Just food for thought YMMV

I agree with this.

I never mess with my triggers until I have about 500 to a couple thousand rounds through them.

It also helps to smooth out the parts that you're not going to be changing if you do decide to replace the trigger.

 

[Gman556]

I am comparing it to the 3 Glocks, 1 FN, 1 Sig, 1 Sigma and 1 other MP 2.0 EZ I own or have owned. No, I am not comparing it to a 1911. Perhaps you should re-read my post. As stated, the traditional long travel was expected. What wasn't expected was the gritty feel and the noticeable hitch or catch a bit before the release point. None of the above mentioned pistols had the last two mentioned qualities and if these qualities are considered 'sop' for striker fired pistols, I must have been blessed in previous purchases.

That noticeable hitch or catch you are feeling is the trigger bar safety plunger nub riding up over that sharp bevel that is on the stock striker block. Polishing mine with some flitz made it a little smoother but it is still there regardless.

The only way to probably get rid of that is to get the Apex striker block.

 

[BenU]

I should add, I guess I lucked out on my 10mm 2.0 as far as the trigger. After reading this I pulled out my original M&P 9mm with an Apex trigger and compared to the 10mm 2.0, there was virtually no difference.

 

[DonD]

I should add, I guess I lucked out on my 10mm 2.0 as far as the trigger. After reading this I pulled out my original M&P 9mm with an Apex trigger and compared to the 10mm 2.0, there was virtually no difference.

That's interesting and pleasing. I had considered doing the Apex routine but the fact that S&W doesn't like seeing one sent to one for repair. Who knows, might charge you to put factory parts in and send it back. Don

 

[DonD]

I am comparing it to the 3 Glocks, 1 FN, 1 Sig, 1 Sigma and 1 other MP 2.0 EZ I own or have owned. No, I am not comparing it to a 1911. Perhaps you should re-read my post. As stated, the traditional long travel was expected. What wasn't expected was the gritty feel and the noticeable hitch or catch a bit before the release point. None of the above mentioned pistols had the last two mentioned qualities and if these qualities are considered 'sop' for striker fired pistols, I must have been blessed in previous purchases.

I am NOT a Glock fan, have owned a good number, have had none for years. My M&P has a good bit better trigger than any of my Glocks all of which were bone stock. Don

 

[vram01k]

My M&P 10mm's trigger is GREAT, so great I'm considering getting a M&P 9 but only if it comes with the new styled trigger (had M&P 9 1.0 and hated the trigger). My M&P 10mm has the best trigger out of all of my striker guns (Glock, Hellcat, etc). Biggest complaint is the reset is not audible enough.


Now the trigger on my M&P 10 (AR), that's trash!

 

[elisachrist2015]

Just bought one. Can't wait to find all the faults!! Does anyone have the Holosun 407c/507c mounted? If so which mounting plate did you go with? I'm looking at the C&H. If anyone has this setup please advise. Thank you.

Dave