M&P 22 MODS - GRIPS, SIGHTS ETC. POST YOUR PICS

I got some of that stuff Brand Name#1 is Birchwood Casey "Presto" gun blue pen .. Will not work on Blue stainless steel aluminum or none ferrous metals # 1321 PSP..#2Birchwood Casey Super Black Instant touch-up pen For polished alloy gun recivers, trigger guards, scopes and so on it is like a felt tiped pen that you pump what looks like paint into the tip#15102 BPPF.. It comes right off with hoppes bore solvent
#3 Birchwood Csey Perma Blue Past Gun blue this is for steel 3SBP2
Not sure but I have used all them on what they shoould be used on preped well but never had lasting decent finish none the less one that would last..
So what the best stuff I could use on aluminum or steel? I have used sharpie's that lasted longer on small nicks and screches. George
 
Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black is what I've used.

The key is the metal has to be degreased thoroughly. Another issue is how the original finish came off. For instance...here's the lower the guy did when he did my M&P22:

3EB89006-2816-4B39-B31C-CEE3DDCC70A2_zpsdcwnqezm.jpg


The trust name part was bare aluminum after it was engraved.

The pic above is a good example. So here's a bad example. I let the local Things Remembered store try to engrave one. I couldn't get the AB to turn it all black, so I sent it to the guy along with the slide and the lower in the other pic. He said it was because the engraving tool they used chipped the finish...and the AB wouldn't react to the surface properly.

0A33F41C-52FC-4AE6-9674-30B282E1B9F6_zpsemrcx8yu.jpg


You can see little flecks of what looks like bare metal.

AB isn't going to wash off...as it causes a chemical reaction instead if just being a paint/ink.
 
Thank you for the reply.. i have repainted many cars in my younger days and I do know prep is everything.. Maybe I'm using the wrong type of degreaser or am doing something wrong in that way makes sence to me.. What's the best stuff to get it done right? George
 
Thank you very much! I have some in the shop I'll just have to make sure it's non chlorinated break cleaner.. I know some of that stuff is very aggressive.. Going to read up on it nor with the link you provided me.. Again thanks! George
 
Another good source is to go to Amazon and read the reviews. A lot of people give you hints for how it turned out better for them.
 
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Not mine...but I haven't seen anybody else post that grip in this thread. It's a Pachmayr slip-on. I ordered one today. Pretty soon mine will look like that except for Spectre II instead of Warlock (same size, just SS instead of aluminum). Oh yeah, and without the lettering on the slide...
 
IMG_3533_zpscecd9be1.jpg


Not mine...but I haven't seen anybody else post that grip in this thread. It's a Pachmayr slip-on. I ordered one today. Pretty soon mine will look like that except for Spectre II instead of Warlock (same size, just SS instead of aluminum). Oh yeah, and without the lettering on the slide...

Guess I need to update with a pic of my own.

I like the all black look with the Pachmayr:

F520AFB0-DC34-4F83-A3D3-B9A93423B466_zpsw0gbyv9j.jpg


And it makes a nice pair with the M&P 15-22 SBR:

971B7262-C855-4F2A-A678-4D42E6D14147_zpsofonovd7.jpg


On another note...I was able to blacken the letters on another 22 pistol I bought recently.

Started with this:

76102479-0939-4601-B816-97BFFC323921_zpstfucrbqn.jpg


Replaced the grips with one from Hogue, add the SiCo adapter, and removed the white lettering with Aluminum Black...and ended up with a Johnny Cash version of the GSG 1911-22:

6739A816-3144-4080-B89C-21094FE2EBAA_zpslkovmidl.jpg



I asked the guy that did my M&P for a couple tips, and here's what he sent me:

get some brake parts cleaner and clean all the oil from the slide, it should look a little hazy when the oil has been stripped. To apply the blackening I use an acid brush, they are found in the plumbing section of the hardware store. Cut the bristles off so that they are only 3/16" long. Clean the brush with a little parts cleaner, make sure it's dry then dip it in the Aluma Black and use a scrubbing action with the long edge of of the brush (opposite of how you would use a paint brush) while keeping the brush vertical & using the tips of the bristles, don't mash the brush flat. Dab the brush on a paper towel before dipping it again, also wipe excess from the area before the next application. About 3 applications will do it.

I found a 3-pack of brushes for $.89, and knocked it out in a couple minutes.
 
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M&P 22 with suppressor

I have an M&P 22 & put an Innovative Arms suppressor on it & discovered that the stock front sight is too low to see over the suppressor. Smith & Wesson had no other sight remedies. Suggestions?
 
This is more of a repair than a mod. But I am building a new recoil buffer. S&W customer service says it will be a while till new parts arrive at their factory. In the mean time I am cutting several pieces of plastic to make a new one. I will post pics after "field testing." LOL.
 
Nice!!!!

Any issues with it running suppressed?

I'm thinking about getting a M&P22 for my SS Sparrow.

Also, guessing those were Subsonics? Seemed to quite to be regular.

I worry about cycling issues...

The recoil spring seems a little weak for high velocity ammo to me. It comes out of battery very early and there is a lot of noise from the breach end of the gun, like shooting an AR (only much, much quieter). With standard velocity and subs, mine works well, but won't cycle CCI subsonics.
 
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