I have five ARs, and they each either prefer or hate steel cased ammo, be it lacquered, polymer coated, or zinc-plated "Silver Bear:"
Colt 20" HBAR Sporter Target preban -- HATES STEEL
Bushmaster 16" "M4gery" -- HATES STEEL
S&W M&P15, Stag built early model -- LOVES STEEL
S&W M&P15, S&W-built late model -- HATES STEEL
Short Barreled Rifle I built on a Sabre Defence lower/used 10.5" Colt upper -- LOVES STEEL
All of the above uppers are stamped "5.56mm", yet there is variation between the guns as to whether steel cased ammo functions or not.
Originally posted by Raven6:
Steel cases with lacquer coating tend to gum up the chamber, be it chrome lined or not. This gumming up of the chamber causes it to be harder to extract the spent round, while at the same time dangerously increasing the chamber pressure since the case is not being extacted in the timely manner for which the system was designed. You will run into the same problem with non-lacquer coated cases, but it will take longer to show up. Steel does not have the same lubricity as does brass.
I'm not sure you wrote what you meant to write, Raven. No AR15/M16 will extract a fired case until the bullet is past the gas port and gas is channeled to the carrier/bolt through the gas tube. Case material has nothing to do with "increasing chamber pressure to dangerous levels."
Steel is less elastic than brass, and will grip the chamber tighter and for a longer period of time due to steel's inability to "relax" after the pressure drops to atmospheric, thus requiring a higher extraction force. Add in sticky lacquer or a buildup of case neck sealant in the far end of the chamber and the forece necessary for extraction overcomes the force of the extractor claw on the case rim, and the next thing you are slamming the rifle butt on the bench stool or ground, or reaching for the cleaning rod and mallet.
After shooting any steel cased ammo, or ammo with neck sealant, I always swab out the chamber with a patch soaked in acetone. Acetone will either dissolve the sealant or shrivel up lacquer deposits into little "chips" that are easily removed with a chamber brush and a few more patches. After that, good to go.
Noah