M&P Date

[ColColt]

I don't have a serial number for this one but ran across it and thought how good a shape it was and wondered what the age may be. I don't know if anyone can tell by looking only but if you could give it a shot it would be appreciated...looking to maybe buy it.

 

[Texas Star]

Looks plenty good! It seems to be from roughly the 1935-1940 period, looking just like Hermann Goering's gun, bought in 1934, as I recall.

This one has a lanyard ring, suggesting later manufacture in that range. Are you sure that it's a .38 Special? If marked as .38 S&W "regular", it may be made for the British between 1940-1942. After that time, (April, 1942), only five-inch barrels went to them, and the finish declined to dull gray wirh more tool marks and smooth stocks.

If it looks that good in person and is a .38 Special at a reasonable price, I'd buy it, if I was after a prewar M&P. Almost no turn line on the cylinder and the screw head isn't buggered by sloppy screwdrivering. If it's been reblued, I can't tell it.

 

[ColColt]

It says 38 S&W Special CTG. on the right side of the barrel. The lack of a deep turn ring and I also pay attention to the screws made it look really good to me. I don't know about shooting much one this old, however. I've never had a revolver older than about 1960. What's the hole below the thumb release? Looks like an IL of a sort.

 

[mikepriwer]

Its not a hole - its the end of the hammer stud.

Mike Priwer

 

[DCWilson]

I agree with T-Star, and would guess 1938-1940 for the proper date. The large logo began appearing on the sideplate in the late 1930s, as I recall. And yes, the lanyard loop suggests manufacture during the period when S&W was moving into military production, but there is no reason it could not have been special ordered before the British contracts really got going.

The barrel stamp can't actually be read, but the blurs in the photo are consistent with a rollmark reading 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG; I think it is indeed an original .38 Special M&P.

Serial number? Kind of feels to me this gun might be in the 660000-680000 range. The numbers higher than that have a lot of BSR .38/200 units attached.

Beautiful gun, by the way. Buy it, buy it, buy it!

 

[ColColt]

No idea as to the serial number. I'll bet parts, if needed, are about impossible to find. It sure looks in very good shape and I love those grips. According to the description it has a "very bright bore".

 

[LEO918]

I don't think that gun will be needing any parts soon.

 

[Goony]

I think the serial number range on this could easily be anywhere from the higher 600K range to possibly even above 800K (which was reached in mid-1941).

The only problem I see with your post is that it should read, "Look what I just bought!"

 

[Texas Star]

I'm puzzled by your reluctance to shoot it. It will handle standard speed modern ammo okay, but a gun like this is mainly for nostalgia or serious collecting.

If you feel you mainly want a gun for use, get a stainless modern one from the 1970's-1990's, Model 64, and don't worry about parts or Plus P suitability.

If you interest is to own and preserve a piece of history made when craftsmanship was supreme, get this one. iF someone hasn't beaten you to it...

 

[glowe]

This revolver looks as if it was hardly shot, since the ring around the cylinder is faint. One of the nicest I have seen in awhile and perfectly safe to shoot 38 Special ammo from sun-up to sunset every day. Parts should be readily available, but as stated before, probably won't need any.

BTW - when did they start with the single line "MADE IN USA" stamp on the frame? This M&P predated that stamping.

 

[DCWilson]

This revolver looks as if it was hardly shot, since the ring around the cylinder is faint. One of the nicest I have seen in awhile and perfectly safe to shoot 38 Special ammo from sun-up to sunset every day. Parts should be readily available, but as stated before, probably won't need any.

BTW - when did they start with the single line "MADE IN USA" stamp on the frame? This M&P predated that stamping.

Hmmm, good eye. The MADE IN U.S.A. stamp first appeared in 1922, if I recall, so this '30s era gun (dated from shape of ejector rod knob, large logo on sideplate, and silver medallions on stocks) should definitely have it. I can't tell from enlarging the photo, but it could be the stamp is there but hard to read because of the lighting. If it is not there (or only partially there) that might indicate a refinished revolver. But I certainly don't see anything else about it that would suggest it was refinished.

 

[ColColt]

I wouldn't be reluctant to shoot it but just a little caution, I guess for lack of a better word just due to it's age. I don't want a pistol/revolver "for lookin'" but for shootin'. I have enough already for that but thought this one looked like it needed a bit of shooting to clean out the cobwebs but not an every week or month shooter.

This one does have the "Made in USA" stamped just right in front of the bottom right screw by the trigger guard-it's just not that visible in the photo but readily seen in an enlargement. It does have a small chip out of the left side of the bottom edge of the grip and a small piece missing at the front of the ejector rod.

 

[glowe]

OK - I blew the image up with Paint and can definitely see "USA". so it must be refinished. Maybe factory refinish because the quality is so high.

 

[Texas Star]

That chip in the extractor rod lock puts me off. It is either the sloppiest job of machining that I've seen on an S&W, or the gun may be refinished, with other issues.

I've never seen even a Victory Model made that badly. They have tool marks at the height of wartime manufacture, but not gouges like that.

As you want a "shooter", you might look for a M-10 made after about 1961, when they changed the direction in which the extractor rod unscrewed, to prevent it loosening in use.
Those guns were also warranted for use with Plus P ammo, although I wouldn't use it continually.

Unlike M&P's from the 1940's and '50's, the finish was also better polished by then. I think you could pay extra for a better blue job in the '50's, but few did, on an M&P. Some models, of course, came with S&W's superb Bright Blue. The .357 Magnum, the Combat Magnum, and the .44 Magnum all came that way, but not service guns. The M-1950 and 1955 Target Models in .44 and .45 could be ordered that way.

If someone really wants a M&P from the 1930's, they occur frequently enough that I think I'd pass on this one. But I am an especially demanding person. Many would be satisfied. But if a reblue is indicated, that should be considered and price adjusted.

 

[ColColt]

That chip in the extractor rod lock puts me off. It is either the sloppiest job of machining that I've seen on an S&W, or the gun may be refinished, with other issues.

That was really the only part that bothered me. I could live with the small chip out of the grip but not the metal rod lock. Shame since it's in such good shape otherwise. They wanted a bit over $500 for it.

 

[Goony]

That was really the only part that bothered me. I could live with the small chip out of the grip but not the metal rod lock. Shame since it's in such good shape otherwise. They wanted a bit over $500 for it.

Understandable now as to why you gave it a pass - that's top tier pricing for a gun that's a common model and has obvious flaws.

 

[tftech1]

This could be OK if the grips are numbered (nearly always stamped inside the RH grip for guns made in the 1930s) to the serial number on the butt and under the barrel (+other locations - not to be confused with the assembly number in three locations). In addition, the serial number on the butt should not be obliterated by the lanyard loop; it should be offset from the center to clear the lanyard loop. This is my opinion. I know that the factory drilled through serial numbers earlier. To me it is an horrendous practice that S&W finally stopped in the 1930s.

 

[mikepriwer]

I know that the factory drilled through serial numbers earlier. To me it is an horrendous practice that S&W finally stopped in the 1930s.

Back in the day, the serial numbers were not all that important, as witnessed by the fact
that several different guns could all have the same serial number. They were important
during the manufacturing process, but once the gun was completed and sold, the
butt serial number was not what it is today. Record keeping, and Federal rules and
regulations, were very different from todays standards, and the full serial number was
always in other places on the gun, as well. The factories view was that they were
making a gun, and not a collectible.

Mike Priwer

 

[maddux]

I have a 38 S & W Special CTG, 4" barrel, s/n 559410, cylinder number matches, I think its a model 1905 based on things I've read from others. I am no gun expert. However, all others I've seen have the checkered grips...this one has pearl, fits perfect like from the factory. Were any sent out with pearl grips? I would think not, being M & P. This revolver is very shiny nickel, not blued...looks brand new. Says Made in USA on R/S. It is unbelievably tight and looks and feels new. Can someone shed light as to a possible year of manufacture? Thanks!

 

[linde]

I have a 38 S & W Special CTG, 4" barrel, s/n 559410, cylinder number matches, I think its a model 1905 based on things I've read from others. I am no gun expert. However, all others I've seen have the checkered grips...this one has pearl, fits perfect like from the factory. Were any sent out with pearl grips? I would think not, being M & P. This revolver is very shiny nickel, not blued...looks brand new. Says Made in USA on R/S. It is unbelievably tight and looks and feels new. Can someone shed light as to a possible year of manufacture? Thanks!

Sorry you haven't received a response before now. Posting a new thread will generally generate more and quicker responses.

My best guess is your M&P shipped in mid-1927, but only a factory letter would confirm since S&W didn't ship in serial number sequence.

Pearl grips . . . if fitted by the factory . . . could have been special ordered for an M&P but would have the S&W medallion. The "roaring 20s" was a period when fancy was popular and pearl grips (without the medallion) were also a popular aftermarket accessory.

If you are able, please post pictures so we can all enjoy.

Russ

 

[Texas Star]

I have a 38 S & W Special CTG, 4" barrel, s/n 559410, cylinder number matches, I think its a model 1905 based on things I've read from others. I am no gun expert. However, all others I've seen have the checkered grips...this one has pearl, fits perfect like from the factory. Were any sent out with pearl grips? I would think not, being M & P. This revolver is very shiny nickel, not blued...looks brand new. Says Made in USA on R/S. It is unbelievably tight and looks and feels new. Can someone shed light as to a possible year of manufacture? Thanks!

Are the hammer and trigger also nickel? Prob. done after the original finish wore off. I believe that original S&W nickel jobs had casehardened hammers and triggers.