M&P m2.0 9mm Locking Block Pin Drift

[bjm02004]

Hello all,


I purchased a new m&p m2.0 9mm compact pistol (sku: 13143) this past November. With the exception of adding a streamlight, I have not modified the pistol in any way. Since purchasing the pistol, I have shot 500 rounds through it. The pistol has experienced no malfunctions; however, I have noticed after each range session that the locking block pin walks towards the left of the pistol. I have been fixing this after each range session by drifting the pin back towards the center of the pistol with a small hammer and brass punch.


After shooting 200 rounds through it this morning, I again observed that the locking block pin walked to the left. Please see the attached pictures. This is the worst that I have seen it.


Is this a cause for concern? Is the pin retained internally within the locking block? The notch in the takedown lever suggests to me that the design allows for some movement in the locking block pin, but in the case of my pistol, the total movement towards the left seems excessive. I have four other m&p m2.0 9’s, and none of them have this issue. Is this amount of leftward drift acceptable, or should the pistol be sent back to the manufacturer?



Thank you!

 

[TX-Dennis]

There is another recent thread on the same issue. Evidently it's not uncommon. The general consensus was to put a drop or two of blue loctite on the pin to prevent it from recurring. I have not seen this on my 2.0 so far, though.

 

[BillyMagg]

Hello all,


I purchased a new m&p m2.0 9mm compact pistol (sku: 13143) this past November. With the exception of adding a streamlight, I have not modified the pistol in any way. Since purchasing the pistol, I have shot 500 rounds through it. The pistol has experienced no malfunctions; however, I have noticed after each range session that the locking block pin walks towards the left of the pistol. I have been fixing this after each range session by drifting the pin back towards the center of the pistol with a small hammer and brass punch.


After shooting 200 rounds through it this morning, I again observed that the locking block pin walked to the left. Please see the attached pictures. This is the worst that I have seen it.


Is this a cause for concern? Is the pin retained internally within the locking block? The notch in the takedown lever suggests to me that the design allows for some movement in the locking block pin, but in the case of my pistol, the total movement towards the left seems excessive. I have four other m&p m2.0 9’s, and none of them have this issue. Is this amount of leftward drift acceptable, or should the pistol be sent back to the manufacturer?



Thank you!

Heh! Heh! Heh! When I saw the pin protrusion picture I thought, no big deal... but the pin recession picture tells another story.. obviously, the pin is no longer being fully supported by the frame, and it appears that if it continues to walk on you, it will fully disengage the frame on that side... NOT GOOD! and not acceptable!

 

[WR Moore]

I'm not sure what all the changes are between the 1.0 and 2.0, but in the 1.0 both locking block and sear housing block are retained by roll/spring pins. The tension they place on the frame/chassis keeps them from moving. Yes, the notch in the takedown lever allows for slight protrusion of the pin on the left.

Perhaps a chat with S&W customer service is in order. Or, you might just find some 1/8 inch-if the pin size hasn't changed- roll pins of appropriate length and swap it out.

 

[tstocklin]

My 2.0 has a spring pin, never moves.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Our 2.0 9mm Shield has the rolled roll pin & it also comes out a few millimeters but in the other direction away from the take down lever..
I put a drop of blue loctite on it & drove it flush with a roll pin punch & a micro hammer..
It's been like that for quite a while now..
Never seen a solid pin like the one on the OPs pistol before or maybe I never noticed until now..
I'll keep an eye on it after shooting from now on..
Here's Mine..
Gary/Hk

 

[MikeKitch]

Coil Pin S&W

My 9mm Performance Plus just had the coil pin slip part way
And block takedown lever . Only shot 100 rounds . I don’t think with 100 rounds it should do that . I don’t have the tools .

 

[m&p2.0fdethumbsafety]

this doesn't happen to me. my copy of the gun has very tight tolerances all around.

 

[Rastoff]

Try inserting the pin from the other direction.

 

[Three Tees]

I have both the thumb safety and non-thumb safety versions of the 9mm Shield 1.0 with over 2,000 rds through each with nary a problem of the roll pins backing out. If yours continues to do so, try this fix if S & W Customer Service is of no help and the pistol is out of warranty:
1) Remove the magazine.
2) BE SURE THE GUN IS UNLOADED AND THE CHAMBER EMPTY
3) Using a dedicated roll pin punch the same diameter as the pin drift the
roll pin out of the polymer frame toward the takedown lever, leaving
the roll pin punch in the frame as a slave pin for later assembly.
4) With roll pin removed and using a very small diameter prick punch,
GENTLY and CAREFULLY spread the pin shaft apart along its slot on
ONE END ONLY. Use a very small hammer and use gentle taps on
the end of the prick punch to accomplish this. BE CAREFUL! All you're
trying to accomplish in this step is to very slightly increase the O.D. of
one end of the roll pin.
5) Withdraw the slave pin to just slightly below the frame by only about
1/16 of an inch. This will allow the smaller O.D. of the roll pin to begin
seating using finger pressure only (the unmodified end).
6) With the roll pin started in the hole (be sure it's perpendicular to the
frame), gently tap the pin back into place which will drive the slave pin
out of the frame and allow the pin to be seated flush with the frame
under the takedown lever. Use the roll pin punch to seat the pin.
7) The larger O.D. of the end of the pin will grab the polymer material of
the frame, locking it in place. A drop of Blue LocTite or other thread
locking product will, once hardened, ensure the pin remains in place.

The roll pin punches can be obtained from Brownell's as a set. Roll pin punches are designed with a small projection on the end that seats the punch in the hole of the roll pin and centers it on the pin. Again, all you're trying to do is to slightly flare out one end of the roll pin and re-install it in its hole in the frame. If using LocTite, be sure to wipe all excess off the frame before it sets otherwise it's a real bear to remove.
I hope this helps and good luck. The whole process should take less than an hour.

 

[DEPUTY346]

Mine looks just like that and its a brand new gun that hasn’t been fired yet.