My first post on the forum! I inherited my fathers mid 1950s M&P late last year SN C 322xxx. He carried this revolver as a Fort Worth police officer up until about 1970 when he was promoted to detective. It is in fine shape with only normal holster wear. It is my understanding that if it is not a model 10, no +P ammo. What magic wand was waved over the guns when they were given the model 10 designation. If memory serves me, I believe that this is the first gun I ever fired when I was around eight or nine...Dad helped me hold it. When I was a kid anytime Dad went to the range to qualify, He always had either my brother or I clean it and oil it. He would then inspect the job we did, load it and return it to it's holster. True firearms education.
M&P +P?
- Thread starter captzeno
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Welcome to the Forum. I do not know of any magic wand used by S&W at the changeover to models number. But my question would be: "Why shoot + P's?" Standard or target loads would be my choice. You have a nice family heirloom, no need to punish it.
I agree
I totally agree with you on not punishing this gun but my curiosity makes me wonder hmm, now what was it they did to a model 10 to ok it for +P. Is it just something that S&W decided as a cut-off point since there are some pretty old and well used M&Ps out there. They at least know the ages of the guns in question since they know when the model 10 designation was established. Just a theory.
I totally agree with you on not punishing this gun but my curiosity makes me wonder hmm, now what was it they did to a model 10 to ok it for +P. Is it just something that S&W decided as a cut-off point since there are some pretty old and well used M&Ps out there. They at least know the ages of the guns in question since they know when the model 10 designation was established. Just a theory.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Nothing was done. The last pre-10 is no different in design, materials or manufacturing from the first Model 10. The stamping of the model number is a convenient point at which to say +P is OK. It makes no sense other than it's an easy benchmark to use.
The fact is that +P is not loaded above allowable pressure for the caliber and is perfectly safe in any quality made gun. I use 1930 as my benchmark because I know that the tempering of steel was very imprecise until the late 1920s but I admit that I may overly cautious.
Factory +P is a 125 bullet at 925 FPS. I struggle to understand how or why ANYONE would consider this a hot load. It's a fairly mild target load IMO.
The fact is that +P is not loaded above allowable pressure for the caliber and is perfectly safe in any quality made gun. I use 1930 as my benchmark because I know that the tempering of steel was very imprecise until the late 1920s but I admit that I may overly cautious.
Factory +P is a 125 bullet at 925 FPS. I struggle to understand how or why ANYONE would consider this a hot load. It's a fairly mild target load IMO.
Close, but not quite. Per SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunituion Manufacturer's Institute), the maximum recommended pressure for standard 38 Spl is 17,000PSI and for +P 18,500PSI. Not much difference, but why push it. I used to practice with standard in my pre-42, but carry +P in the hope that, if needed, it would last five rounds. My understanding is that the parts of some Smith 357's are heat-treated differently than the comparable 38 Spl's, and newer 38 Spl's may well be stronger due to different alloys/treatments than their predecessors.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Max allowed for the caliber is 21,000.
Like I correctly stated, +P is below maximum allowable pressure.
Not close, but exactly correct.
Like I correctly stated, +P is below maximum allowable pressure.
Not close, but exactly correct.
I just picked up a K38 pre-model 15 w/C&R. Seems to be in extremely good condition with only minor holster wear. I'm guessing +P is right out of the question? I have inherited 30 (yes, THIRTY) boxes of .38+P ammo (uncle was a cop during "McGarrett" era). I think I'll just stick to using it in my Marlin Cowboy carbine and get normal target load for the K38. I honestly don't think I'll be shooting the K38 much.
Here's a good question for the more experienced S&W collectors - would you re-blue or restore, or "leave as is"?
No rust or pitting, just 80% blueing left.
Here's a good question for the more experienced S&W collectors - would you re-blue or restore, or "leave as is"?
No rust or pitting, just 80% blueing left.
I'm a big fan of "leave it alone." Like people, guns earn their scars and blemishes.
roaddog28
Member
Hi pacificrevolvers,
I once had a Combat Masterpiece born 1951. I did shoot 38+P ammo and did not see any accelated wear out of the revolver. Saxon Pig is right about 38+P ammo. It is way overrated. I still have a M&P 38 special born in 1954 and I do use 38+P ammo in it. Again no issues. While I agree for practice target 38s are less expense. But one should be practicing with their SD round too. Self defense rounds shoot different than target wadcutters.
Bottom line. You should be fine shooting +P out of your combat masterpiece.
Howard
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