Most any K frame 38 special cylinder will work with some fitting. The model 12 cylinders are exceptions as they are slightly longer than the normal K frame 38 cylinders.
The usual problem fitting a cylinder is the yoke tube length and depth of the center hole in cylinder. Due to manufacturing variations you might end up with an assembly that is a bit to long and will not close. In this case the yoke tube needs trimmed. You could also end up with an assembly that is a bit to short and has excess end shake. Either stretch the yoke tube or add shims. I prefer the shims as they a provide smooth hardened surface for the cylinder to turn on. Believe it or not I usually don't have many timing issues. If you do and the cylinder locks up early, you get a little hitch right before the hammer falls. You can either pull the trigger a bunch and the hand will wear the tooth down or a couple passes by a fine file on the wear surface of the tooth will cure it. If you place some Prussian blue on the teeth and run the trigger, the high spots will become shiny. If the hammer falls before the cylinder locks up and you have minimal endshake you need a slightly thicker hand
If your gun is running a right hand thread rod and you get a newer cylinder you will of course need a left hand rod. The rod and center pin are fitted pieces. The tip of the rod needs to clear the lug before it bottoms out in its hole, The tip of the center pin needs to protrude a tiny bit from the rod when the ratchet end is pressed flush to the center of ratchet
In other words a K frame 38 cylinder can fit. But, there may or may not be a bit of fiddling to make it right
