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New to the forum and relatively new to M&P's. Wanted to know if it is possible to retrofit an M&P 40 without a thumb safety with one and if possible what is required to do so.
M&P Safety Retrofit
- Thread starter freetheeagle
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Both my m&p 40 base and m&p pro 5in barrel 40 have the cutouts for them as well... I'm trying to track down exactly what I need to do to install one but s&w says they don't sell the parts and don't offer that service( putting a safety in a non safety production gun)... If u find any more info Ile let u kno and if find out anything feel free to hit me up... thanks
my collection: m&p 40 range kit(my carry) m&p sheild 9mm (fiances carry) m&p pro 40 5in(future duty carry) s&w sd40 w/ light laser( nightstand gun) m&p 15-22(my rifle), RIA 1911 45, and a keltec ksg 12guage in fde ( home defense and just cool as hell)...and coming soon m&p 15 sport...
my collection: m&p 40 range kit(my carry) m&p sheild 9mm (fiances carry) m&p pro 40 5in(future duty carry) s&w sd40 w/ light laser( nightstand gun) m&p 15-22(my rifle), RIA 1911 45, and a keltec ksg 12guage in fde ( home defense and just cool as hell)...and coming soon m&p 15 sport...
SMMAssociates
Member
liquidgrey:
You can make your own cutouts in the frame.... Kinda messy, though, if you're not skilled at it.
The real problem is, IMHO, which sear block assembly you have. There are three, but the first two are nominally identical, and will won't work....
If your sear block has a Hilary Lock (key operated lock) or a hole for one (about a quarter-inch hole through the entire block almost to the rear of the thing), you may be screwed. The thumb safety requires a little cam follower and spring as well as the thumb safety lever itself. I expect "Speed Shooters Supply" (hope I'm getting that right) would have them for under $20. You can also buy a new sear block assembly for about the same money.
A little care and a lot of cursing makes swapping a sear block pretty easy. Getting the new one into the frame seems to be a bit of magic, but if you play with it....
(Use the plastic bag method!)
Regards,
You can make your own cutouts in the frame.... Kinda messy, though, if you're not skilled at it.
The real problem is, IMHO, which sear block assembly you have. There are three, but the first two are nominally identical, and will won't work....
If your sear block has a Hilary Lock (key operated lock) or a hole for one (about a quarter-inch hole through the entire block almost to the rear of the thing), you may be screwed. The thumb safety requires a little cam follower and spring as well as the thumb safety lever itself. I expect "Speed Shooters Supply" (hope I'm getting that right) would have them for under $20. You can also buy a new sear block assembly for about the same money.
A little care and a lot of cursing makes swapping a sear block pretty easy. Getting the new one into the frame seems to be a bit of magic, but if you play with it....
(Use the plastic bag method!)
Regards,
Why would you want a safety on a striker fired pistol? IMHO the only purpose a safety serves on an M&P is to make them more marketable in restrictive states. If you must have it, I would send it back to S&W and get it done right. Just remember, your firearms already have two safeties: your trigger finger and your brain.
mb66
Member
I've added a safety to my full size 9. It required 1) the thumb safety and 2) the detent and spring combination. I got my thumb safety off a guy here on the forums, we actually traded my leftover frame cutout fillers for it. Usually SpeedShooterSpecialties has the detent and spring. If not, I have a spare I can mail you. Just pm me.
It's an easy job. It requires removing the sear housing block, which is done by driving out the rear roll pin. There are plenty of Apex Youtube videos on how to do that.
It's an easy job. It requires removing the sear housing block, which is done by driving out the rear roll pin. There are plenty of Apex Youtube videos on how to do that.
SMMAssociates
Member
liquidgrey:
I didn't want to get into the "why", but knight65 is correct, IMHO. I ended up with an M&P90C with a safety, but that largely was a "because we have one", and being a 1911 guy, it's presence/need doesn't bother me. My other two M&P's don't have the thumb safety. (The M&P9C is a "house gun" right now - if my daughter ever gets off the dime, it's hers, for her apartment.)
You DO need a 1/8" roll pin punch, and the correct sear block assembly, too, but unless you try to remove the sear itself (NOT recommended if you don't need to), it just seems to be a bit magical to get the sear block back into the frame without several tries. IMHO, a half-hour bench charge if you get a local smith to do it for you.
My gunsmithing skills are just above getting the grips back on the correct sides, but with a 1911, you do need to have some skills or a friend who does
.... The M&P series guns are a bit of a jigsaw puzzle, but not at all difficult. (DON'T try to play with the sear assembly on a KelTec P3AT.... It's almost trivial, but seriously counter-intuitive. As in "what were they thinking!".)
IMHO, if you're going to take the thing apart anyway, grab an Apex DCAEK kit while you're at it. Plan on going a little nuts with the trigger block assembly, but it's still DIY, or your local smith likely would install it during that same half-hour....
Regards,
I didn't want to get into the "why", but knight65 is correct, IMHO. I ended up with an M&P90C with a safety, but that largely was a "because we have one", and being a 1911 guy, it's presence/need doesn't bother me. My other two M&P's don't have the thumb safety. (The M&P9C is a "house gun" right now - if my daughter ever gets off the dime, it's hers, for her apartment.)
You DO need a 1/8" roll pin punch, and the correct sear block assembly, too, but unless you try to remove the sear itself (NOT recommended if you don't need to), it just seems to be a bit magical to get the sear block back into the frame without several tries. IMHO, a half-hour bench charge if you get a local smith to do it for you.
My gunsmithing skills are just above getting the grips back on the correct sides, but with a 1911, you do need to have some skills or a friend who does
.... The M&P series guns are a bit of a jigsaw puzzle, but not at all difficult. (DON'T try to play with the sear assembly on a KelTec P3AT.... It's almost trivial, but seriously counter-intuitive. As in "what were they thinking!".)IMHO, if you're going to take the thing apart anyway, grab an Apex DCAEK kit while you're at it. Plan on going a little nuts with the trigger block assembly, but it's still DIY, or your local smith likely would install it during that same half-hour....
Regards,
uechikid
Member
The parts you need are listed on the link below. The safety levee however is OOS.
Factory Parts : Welcome to Speed Shooter Specialties
Factory Parts : Welcome to Speed Shooter Specialties
