M&P Shield problems!!!!!ARGH!!!!!

[Sabrekiller]

Brand new, in the box, never fired. Just picked it up yesterday and the darn thing will not disassemble. I've followed the instructions, even watched it on YouTube. Nada. Pull slide back, flip down sear lever, flip down the take down lever, pull back on receiver and let it go forward. The slide moves barely forward of the normal slide position when ready to fire, but that's it. Anyone got any help?

I bought the 9 and the .45 and both have had issues. the take down lever won't go all the way down due to the pin sticking out too far and now my 45 won't disassemble. I'm not happy with S&W.

 

[ontargetagain]

? pin sticking out too far? Not sure what you mean by that. And as foolish as it seems you are leaving the magazine out of the gun correct?

The only time my 45 Shield does what you say yours is doing is if I forget to put the yellow lever down. Is the takedown lever rotating all the way down? When you pull the slide back you should hear a little 'click' then while still holding it guide it forward, you are not pulling the trigger for any reason are you?
Karl

 

[bigwheelzip]

Too bad. There have been some Shield stuck slide issues lately, so perhaps a member will have an answer shortly. Good luck.

You shouldn't have to on a new gun, and it might not have made any difference, but as part of your pre-sale inspection, you might want to field strip pistols at the counter, before you put your money down.

 

[Shield9mm]

I read another case like yours he called S&W and sent the gun back.


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[Funflyer]

Initially you might try removing the slide by the trigger pull method so you can see what's going on with the sear deactivation lever. Leaving the sear lever in the up position, rotate the take down lever down and let the slide go forward, then just pull the trigger to release it. If this doesn't work then there might be an issue with the recoil spring assy binding.

 

[Sabrekiller]

Yes...

magazine is out. FINALLY got the slide to come off by pulling the trigger after letting slide go all the way forward. This happened while I was on hold waiting for customer service. LOL!

The sear lever was up for this process, but the instructions say that the slide is to be removed with the lever on the down position. so far I have been unable to make that happen.

The "pin" I'm referring to is just below the take down lever. The lever has to rotate over the top of it in order to remove the slide. I took a small punch to it yesterday evening and got it down enough that the lever will rotate over it, but with some difficulty. I'm going to work on it some more this evening.

I was unable to inspect the weapons before I purchased them. This was an online purchase.

 

[trbomax]

I bought my 9 online as well.The slide was tight and dry.The barrel had what apears to be rust in it and the bolt face finish shows a lot of case imprinting.There was no information on how to get the rebate either.I got it apart,cleaned it and lubed it.The slide is still tight and I have not been able to try and shoot it yet,but I am really disapointed in both the weapon and the vendor.

 

[Lost Lake]

I've bought 9 Shields online so far. All have worked perfectly.
I buy from Buds, Grabagun and Whittaker.

 

[SwflG17Guy]

Sabrekiller, when I first got mine I thought I was having the same problem as you. It turned out that I was pushing the sear lever down too far. You only have to push it down easily until it stops.
I was pushing it down and jogging it over and it would go down further, and it wouldn't release the slide. I tried stopping before the 'jog' and it works fine.
I'm not sure if this is your issue or not but I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[Lost Lake]

I've bought 9 Shields online so far. All have worked perfectly.
I buy from Buds, Grabagun and Whittaker.

 

[ScaryWoody]

It's odd that the roll pin would be out being a new pistol. It may be a bit undersized or something. Post some pics if you can. I hate sending a pistol back to the manufacturer but your pistols might be getting an all expenses paid trip to Springfield, MA.

 

[Sabrekiller]

Bingo! Winner winner chicken dinner!

Sabrekiller, when I first got mine I thought I was having the same problem as you. It turned out that I was pushing the sear lever down too far. You only have to push it down easily until it stops.
I was pushing it down and jogging it over and it would go down further, and it wouldn't release the slide. I tried stopping before the 'jog' and it works fine.
I'm not sure if this is your issue or not but I thought I'd throw it out there.

I tried your suggestion and it turns out I was pushing the sear stop down too far. The manual is a bit misleading in that regard.

As far as the roll pin goes, it only sticks out enough to impede the takedown lever. I'm sure that I can tap on it a little more with my punch and make sufficient clearance.

 

[MichiganScott]

I bought my 9 online as well.The slide was tight and dry.The barrel had what apears to be rust in it and the bolt face finish shows a lot of case imprinting.There was no information on how to get the rebate either.I got it apart,cleaned it and lubed it.The slide is still tight and I have not been able to try and shoot it yet,but I am really disapointed in both the weapon and the vendor.

The "rust" is probably preservative, the brass imprints come from function testing, and you might want to try the S&W web site for information on the rebate.

Would you have preferred a loose slide that rattled when shaken?

You should have bought a Glock.

 

[ontargetagain]

I bought my 9 online as well.The slide was tight and dry.The barrel had what apears to be rust in it and the bolt face finish shows a lot of case imprinting.There was no information on how to get the rebate either.I got it apart,cleaned it and lubed it.The slide is still tight and I have not been able to try and shoot it yet,but I am really disapointed in both the weapon and the vendor.

You probably mean the spring in the slide is strong? If you think the slide is 'tight' remove the slide, remove the spring and put the slide back on, if binding then it may be 'tight'. I prefer to always clean and inspect and lube a new gun before shooting, it is part of proper safety and preparation in my opinion. Most semi-autos of any brand I have purchased are not in the best of shape to fire right out of the case and that goes for my Beretta, Sig, Walther and CZ. Being that each gun is prefired I would expect an imprint, I would expect it to be dirty and I would expect it to be protected with some sort of lubricant preservative since it may sit for many months before being sold.

Online buying isn't always your best route to go, a reputable brick and mortar store seller will review your weapon, show you how to take the gun down properly and also let you know if something isn't correct with the gun itself before you buy it.

Good luck with the fine gun you purchased
Karl

 

[S&W Rover]

I bought my 9 online as well.The slide was tight and dry.The barrel had what apears to be rust in it and the bolt face finish shows a lot of case imprinting.There was no information on how to get the rebate either.I got it apart,cleaned it and lubed it.The slide is still tight and I have not been able to try and shoot it yet,but I am really disapointed in both the weapon and the vendor.

Apply for the rebate here. Rebates | Smith & Wesson

 

[S&W Rover]

I tried your suggestion and it turns out I was pushing the sear stop down too far. The manual is a bit misleading in that regard.

As far as the roll pin goes, it only sticks out enough to impede the takedown lever. I'm sure that I can tap on it a little more with my punch and make sufficient clearance.

This is the second time I have seen this issue pop up on the M&P forum in the last few days. This is a good topic for the new gun owner to be aware of. The solution is easy.

Sometimes roll pins are not installed all the way into position. Just tap them back into place, flush with the side of the pistol. You can use almost any flat, blunt object to transfer the energy from a small hammer. A nail punch will work if used lightly and will even self-center in the roll-pin. The trick is to avoid having the punch slip off the pin and mark the plastic frame.

Likewise, after a lot of shooting, any of the cross-frame pins may "walk" out of holes and protrude a bit. Just tap them back in. (If they "walk" too often, clean off the end that is coming out, put a drop of loc-tite on it, and tap them back into place).

This is stuff that is fairly common with mass-assembled, striker-fired, polymer guns -- owners should prepared to do a bit of maintenance to keep things running right.