M&P upgrade suggestions
- Thread starter jmoose
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Trigger kit.
Apex is most popular…
I'm a fan of overwatch precision.
And the other side of the coin is if it's a carry pistol, leave it stock.
I prefer a nice, crisp, 3.5 to 4lb trigger with a good feel, good reset, good break.
You'll get varying answers.
Apex is most popular…
I'm a fan of overwatch precision.
And the other side of the coin is if it's a carry pistol, leave it stock.
I prefer a nice, crisp, 3.5 to 4lb trigger with a good feel, good reset, good break.
You'll get varying answers.
It is a home defense gun as I have one of those mini o- lights on the rail. I have not been super happy with the stock trigger and have already been looking into the Apex trigger kit so it's nice to hear that is a good choice.
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I have a M&P .40 1.0. If you don't mind doing a little gunsmithing, get an MCarbo trigger spring kit. Made a world of difference on mine.
Shoot the heck out of t=your pistol first and then deice what you may feel the need to upgrade . Might be a front sights , Might be some trigger group up grade . I like apex kits and have several in m&p pistol but I also have a 2,0 5" PC ported 40sw. I did some minor stoning to the connector . I smooth over the "corners "on the part of the connector that rubs over the striker block . That smooths and lightens trigger pull. Look at the standadr 2.0 striker block . Apex sells a nicley rounded over striker block and m&p's 2,0 PC models have a slightly rounded over block in them . Yours could be more like the early models and have a very short radius at the edge and flat top to it . IS so buy a apex striker block kit only and that maybe all your need . WE have an early m&p9c , like todays sub compact . I added just a striker block kit , stoned and polished the connector contact point s and ended up with a nice low 4lb 2 to 4oz trigger pull with stock length movement . Wifes CC for a few years but moving to a p365xl .
Don't know if you're a new shooter, new to the M&P line, or just new here so I'll assume all three. 
Go put a few hundred rounds through it first. Let it, and you "settled in" and then decide if you need further "tweaks". Spend your money on ammo and range time, maybe a few extra mags. If you haven't done so yet, give it a good clean and lube.
Watch a bunch of YT videos. M&P are fairly easy to work on with some basic tools if you're a DIY'er.
Welcome to the Forum!!
Go put a few hundred rounds through it first. Let it, and you "settled in" and then decide if you need further "tweaks". Spend your money on ammo and range time, maybe a few extra mags. If you haven't done so yet, give it a good clean and lube.
Watch a bunch of YT videos. M&P are fairly easy to work on with some basic tools if you're a DIY'er.
Welcome to the Forum!!
Thank you I will look into that and see what I find out. I have a p365 as well, one of my favorite guns
When did I say I haven't tried it out?
Didn't say that you had either. The only thing you may want to do to the trigger is lightly polish and radius the striker block. I removed the Apex kit from this gun since I bought it used and someone had put it in there. If I want a dingus trigger I would just buy another Glock.
If you feel the stock grip is some what on the small side you might try the wilson grip module . MY wife likes it .
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What I do to a pistol to "upgrade" it depends on what I'm using it for and how it shoots.
I usually try to find a brand/bullet type that shoots good groups in it before I start swapping parts.
I've found that an Apex trigger is nice. They spoil you. No matter how many times I tell myself the 2.0 triggers are good enough I find myself comparing the factory 2.0 trigger to the Apex Tactical trigger in one of my 2.0's if I take both to the range at the same time. No comparison. The Apex Tactical trigger is just that much better it makes me want to buy another one and install it in the new pistol.
My 2.0 5" 9MM taught me a nice (Apex Tactical) trigger doesn't always make a pistol shoot better groups. Surprised me but it was true for that pistol. I then bought an Apex Tactical gunsmith fit barrel and the groups tightened up. Still doesn't shoot like my CZ P09, but it was improved enough I'd be willing to carry it if I had to.
I've only bought one full sized M&P that shoots good enough out of the box to suit me. A 2.0 4&1/4" .40 S&W PC pistol. Just this one. The rest were put in the safe, given to relatives, or upgraded with aftermarket parts to improve the way they shoot. I love the way they look. I love the way the fit/feel in my hand. I just want them to shoot smaller groups.
My best shooting full size M&P is a 2.0 5" FDE .40 S&W. It has an Apex Tactical trigger kit, a slide milled for a Holoson 507 and a KKM Precision barrel in it. That one is alright.
What we want can be different than someone else wants. Of the 6 or 7 full sized M&Ps I have one shoots good enough not to need aftermarket help. Did any of them shoot good enough to satisfy some people right out of the box? Could be. But they're mine and I wanted better and was willing to spend the time/money to try to make them better.
I usually try to find a brand/bullet type that shoots good groups in it before I start swapping parts.
I've found that an Apex trigger is nice. They spoil you. No matter how many times I tell myself the 2.0 triggers are good enough I find myself comparing the factory 2.0 trigger to the Apex Tactical trigger in one of my 2.0's if I take both to the range at the same time. No comparison. The Apex Tactical trigger is just that much better it makes me want to buy another one and install it in the new pistol.
My 2.0 5" 9MM taught me a nice (Apex Tactical) trigger doesn't always make a pistol shoot better groups. Surprised me but it was true for that pistol. I then bought an Apex Tactical gunsmith fit barrel and the groups tightened up. Still doesn't shoot like my CZ P09, but it was improved enough I'd be willing to carry it if I had to.
I've only bought one full sized M&P that shoots good enough out of the box to suit me. A 2.0 4&1/4" .40 S&W PC pistol. Just this one. The rest were put in the safe, given to relatives, or upgraded with aftermarket parts to improve the way they shoot. I love the way they look. I love the way the fit/feel in my hand. I just want them to shoot smaller groups.
My best shooting full size M&P is a 2.0 5" FDE .40 S&W. It has an Apex Tactical trigger kit, a slide milled for a Holoson 507 and a KKM Precision barrel in it. That one is alright.
What we want can be different than someone else wants. Of the 6 or 7 full sized M&Ps I have one shoots good enough not to need aftermarket help. Did any of them shoot good enough to satisfy some people right out of the box? Could be. But they're mine and I wanted better and was willing to spend the time/money to try to make them better.
Hey guys I just finished installing the Apex action enhancement duty/carry kit on my m&P 2.0 . It has a nice crisp trigger and reset is almost immediate. One thing I wasn't sure of as that I have to pull the trigger back about 3/4 of the way before it starts engaging after the initial rack and I wasn't sure if that is normal or not. Trigger pulls still seems a little stiff but I'm sure that will get better with use. I almost went with the competition enhancement kit but being that I use this gun for home defense I figured it would better to be safe. Let me know your thoughts, thank you
I reached out to Apex and they said that I should be good to try some live fire but didn't really give me a answer if it is normal to have that much travel in the trigger before it starts engaging. If any of you guys have this trigger kit I would love to hear your response, thank you
I also sent them a video, which I will try to include here.
I added a apex early very of todays FST kit to a m&p core for my wife . We are both 1911 shooters and SA revolver shooter so we like short reset and lighter trigger pull - 3.5lb or a fuzz less . My first handgun is a colt huntsman with a 2lb break and no perceivable take up or over travel I started shooting as a 6 year old and I have no issues with the apex fst kit assuming your understand you need a safe trigger for less skilled shooters and with a striker fired pistol that may not have a well designed thumb safety .
So consider that the m&p are striker fired striker and most do not have thumb safety's do you really want a 1911 like short movement to fire trigger pull with no trigger take up ? You can ether learn to follow the reset type trigger pull as if you were a seasoned 1911 TARGET / BULLSEYE shooter OR you can learn to use amount of Getting off the triggers so it will set and then take up the slack to fire again . This can be known as Sweeping The Trigger to allow a bit trigger movement before the take up to the wall for defensive practice. The only thing your video shows is you may have a head game over trigger take up that is a head game for you ! Just shoot it as if your life depends on it .
Sweeping The Trigger is a style used by DA handgun shooters over the decades assuming you want to shoot quickly and there are a few pro Shootes like Todd Jarrett , Rob Leatham and Yong Lee that use the same trigger pull style with highly tune competition handguns that are Grandmaster too . Young Lee has a in door range video showing the difference in a more or less uncontrolled double tap and a fast sweeping the trigger pull style .
Bottom line is if You want a better trigger with no trigger take up carry a nicely tuned 1911 .
So consider that the m&p are striker fired striker and most do not have thumb safety's do you really want a 1911 like short movement to fire trigger pull with no trigger take up ? You can ether learn to follow the reset type trigger pull as if you were a seasoned 1911 TARGET / BULLSEYE shooter OR you can learn to use amount of Getting off the triggers so it will set and then take up the slack to fire again . This can be known as Sweeping The Trigger to allow a bit trigger movement before the take up to the wall for defensive practice. The only thing your video shows is you may have a head game over trigger take up that is a head game for you ! Just shoot it as if your life depends on it .
Sweeping The Trigger is a style used by DA handgun shooters over the decades assuming you want to shoot quickly and there are a few pro Shootes like Todd Jarrett , Rob Leatham and Yong Lee that use the same trigger pull style with highly tune competition handguns that are Grandmaster too . Young Lee has a in door range video showing the difference in a more or less uncontrolled double tap and a fast sweeping the trigger pull style .
Bottom line is if You want a better trigger with no trigger take up carry a nicely tuned 1911 .
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CBennett047
Member
I should pick up my M&P .45 ACP 4" 1.0 today or tomorrow from FFL. but ive always been as you said on any carry gun/cc/sd/hd type pistol I have owned.. outside of a Night or quick acquisition type sight ive never changed anything...all have been bone stock.. that said im about to change something in my Glock 43X, the trigger ,and I dont mean the inner workings because of pull weight or any other stuff I mean the actual trigger/trigger shoe itself.. the little glock safety dingus in the middle doesnt lay flat when triggers depressed.. its a snappy little gun and its starting to give me a trigger finger blister.. so im going to sand it first or just change the trigger itself(shoe) out.
So I wont change without cause and change just to change... then you see all these threads(every gun board ive been on) My Glock/Sig/S&W/XD wont work I changed out 4 stock parts for aftermarket now it doesnt work right... I dont want to be the guy starting those threads... i have never looked for one of those here on this board(but im gonna go look right after typing this and I bet i find a slew of.. my M&P wont work i switched out parts from stock and now it doesnt work anymore lol) they are prevalent and numerous on the Glock boards..so just for simplicity sake and knowing stock generally works..i try to stay away from swapping unless REALLY needed(like the 43X trigger face).
Thank you for the detailed reply. I was just simply asking if it is normal to have that much take up after the Apex kit is installed. I like the trigger pull and love the reset but just wanted to make sure I didn't install something incorrectly on the innards. I have a Springfield operator 45 ACP 1911 which I love and it is completely stock except for the grip. What kind of things are you guys doing to the 1911s to tune them? Sorry if this is a ignorant question, I have been shooting guns for almost 40 years but I am definitely not as seasoned as most of you on here
Welcome to the forum. I had the same issue and couldn't stand all the travel before the break. You can adjust the trigger bar loop to eliminate the travel.
Adjustments should be made in small increments. This method will also work on stock trigger configurations. I used a sparkplug gapping tool and feeler gauges to perform the work.
Following all safety measures. Remove the slide, and actuate the trigger slowly.
Watch closely as to when the loop contacts the sear.
Increasing the loop radius reduces the travel and decreasing the loop adds travel.
Hope this helps
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That is great news! Is there any adverse effects on doing this? Thank you for chiming in
Other than a more reactive trigger, I've experienced none. I'm going on 6 years with the 1.5 build.
How about the reset? Would this somehow stall the reset as in having to let the trigger extend out more before it actually resets?
It did not affect the reset. As far as I can tell.
Ok sounds good. Ironically I just received a wheeler manual trigger pull scale in the mail and I tested the trigger. It is measuring at 8 lbs on three different tests. Do any of you guys know what I should look for? the trigger pull is supposed to be 5.5 lb
I will radius the edges of trigger loop and then polishing it well .Polish the sides of the sear and hammer . Do not touch the engagement surfaces of the sear or hammer as most are MIM parts and not the hard part . nd to swap out the 23 lb main spring for a 20lb spring for 230grammo or even a 19lb spring for 185 to 200gr bullets .I do not use +P ammo so recoil spring can stay the same . Tune the sear leg,,,, Cylinder & Slide sell a Light sear spring that is said to reduce trigger pull by 1.5lb's ! This may cover your needs . Or buy a several new colt replacement sear springs to tune as its easy to muck one up !! Don't ask how I know this to be true .
Now to tune a new sear go to you tube or 1911 forum and wlook for info to bend the spring slightly for a lighter trigger pull But you can get it to light and then throw that spring away . Leave your stock spring alone so you have a good spring to use if needed .
If you have acess to a digital trigger pull gauge harison Design has good directions to work with for tuning a sear spring .
Prepping Sear Springs
www.harrisoncustom.com
The 2.0's don't use the "loop" on the trigger bar. They use an "activator" to drop the sear. The "activator" is highlighted in red. The trigger bar pushes (green arrow) to rotate the sear and release the striker.
So the trigger travel before the wall deactivates the striker block. With Apex's forward set sear (FSS), the activator has an extended tab (in red) that shortens the distance, thus reducing the "pretravel".
Here's the 2.0 sear housing. The activator elements have a red line. The green arrow shows where the trigger bar would sit and move the sear when you press the trigger.
This is the activator with Apex's FSS kit. Note the red block showing the extended tab.
So the trigger travel before the wall deactivates the striker block. With Apex's forward set sear (FSS), the activator has an extended tab (in red) that shortens the distance, thus reducing the "pretravel".
Here's the 2.0 sear housing. The activator elements have a red line. The green arrow shows where the trigger bar would sit and move the sear when you press the trigger.
This is the activator with Apex's FSS kit. Note the red block showing the extended tab.
Thank you for all of the information. I actually didn't get the Apex FSS flat face trigger but maybe I should have. I used model 100 - 126 action enhancement duty carry trigger kit and I utilized the stock activator. I am measuring 8 lb of trigger pull so I'm not sure what the heck went wrong. Any suggestions on where to look? I'm supposed to be around 5.5 lb which is a pretty significant difference
Hey, sorry for any confusion. I was not aware that the trigger bar configuration was changed.
On idea what you have done to get a 8lb trigger pull . Return to stock condition or watch the apex videos on there site to try to figure out what went very wrong . I have not used the 100 - 126 action enhancement duty carry trigger kit.
After placing the scale at the very bottom of the trigger I was able to achieve a consistent 5.5 lbs which is what apex advertised. Wish I would have went with the competition kit for a lighter trigger pull
