Other than a more reactive trigger, I've experienced none. I'm going on 6 years with the 1.5 build.
M&P upgrade suggestions
- Thread starter jmoose
- Start date
How about the reset? Would this somehow stall the reset as in having to let the trigger extend out more before it actually resets?
It did not affect the reset. As far as I can tell.
Ok sounds good. Ironically I just received a wheeler manual trigger pull scale in the mail and I tested the trigger. It is measuring at 8 lbs on three different tests. Do any of you guys know what I should look for? the trigger pull is supposed to be 5.5 lb
I will radius the edges of trigger loop and then polishing it well .Polish the sides of the sear and hammer . Do not touch the engagement surfaces of the sear or hammer as most are MIM parts and not the hard part . nd to swap out the 23 lb main spring for a 20lb spring for 230grammo or even a 19lb spring for 185 to 200gr bullets .I do not use +P ammo so recoil spring can stay the same . Tune the sear leg,,,, Cylinder & Slide sell a Light sear spring that is said to reduce trigger pull by 1.5lb's ! This may cover your needs . Or buy a several new colt replacement sear springs to tune as its easy to muck one up !! Don't ask how I know this to be true .
Now to tune a new sear go to you tube or 1911 forum and wlook for info to bend the spring slightly for a lighter trigger pull But you can get it to light and then throw that spring away . Leave your stock spring alone so you have a good spring to use if needed .
If you have acess to a digital trigger pull gauge harison Design has good directions to work with for tuning a sear spring .
Prepping Sear Springs
www.harrisoncustom.com
The 2.0's don't use the "loop" on the trigger bar. They use an "activator" to drop the sear. The "activator" is highlighted in red. The trigger bar pushes (green arrow) to rotate the sear and release the striker.
So the trigger travel before the wall deactivates the striker block. With Apex's forward set sear (FSS), the activator has an extended tab (in red) that shortens the distance, thus reducing the "pretravel".
Here's the 2.0 sear housing. The activator elements have a red line. The green arrow shows where the trigger bar would sit and move the sear when you press the trigger.
This is the activator with Apex's FSS kit. Note the red block showing the extended tab.
So the trigger travel before the wall deactivates the striker block. With Apex's forward set sear (FSS), the activator has an extended tab (in red) that shortens the distance, thus reducing the "pretravel".
Here's the 2.0 sear housing. The activator elements have a red line. The green arrow shows where the trigger bar would sit and move the sear when you press the trigger.
This is the activator with Apex's FSS kit. Note the red block showing the extended tab.
Thank you for all of the information. I actually didn't get the Apex FSS flat face trigger but maybe I should have. I used model 100 - 126 action enhancement duty carry trigger kit and I utilized the stock activator. I am measuring 8 lb of trigger pull so I'm not sure what the heck went wrong. Any suggestions on where to look? I'm supposed to be around 5.5 lb which is a pretty significant difference
Hey, sorry for any confusion. I was not aware that the trigger bar configuration was changed.
On idea what you have done to get a 8lb trigger pull . Return to stock condition or watch the apex videos on there site to try to figure out what went very wrong . I have not used the 100 - 126 action enhancement duty carry trigger kit.
After placing the scale at the very bottom of the trigger I was able to achieve a consistent 5.5 lbs which is what apex advertised. Wish I would have went with the competition kit for a lighter trigger pull
I've been a competition shooter, since the 90s and I can't shoot a heavy triggered pistol well. My gen 1 M&P pro has the competition trigger kit and comes in about 32 oz, and the reset is short, but vague. I had a 2.0 that I set up for carry optics division, but sold to a friend who wanted it. I THINK I had to use a 45 seat, in it, even though it was 9mm, but if I remember correctly, I had to order sear return springs. The sear and the springs make all the difference. I think I double ordered the springs. If you want to try some, measure the size of yours. P.M. me, if you're interested.
A previous post, pretty much covered the 1911.
That would be awesome if you think it would work. I installed the Apex 100-126 action enhancement kit which included these items.
It also lists that it reduces the trigger pre travel by 20% and if you look at the video I posted above that is clearly not the case. I know every gun is different but was really hoping for better results.
Well that could be called part of the learning curve ! I know I could get you a pound lower and stay safe but unless your in western NC mountains your out of luck . Look at the connector on your pistol . Not the part that rubs against the striker block is not smoothly rounded over but has 3 sides to it . If you see that you could stone off some of the point that woulf first make contact with the striker block. Round it over some . Then polish it smooth . That can reduce the pull weight and smooth the trigger pull . I did just this to my wifes first , a m&p9c she kept as a road trip big city CC for a years and I ended up with a smooth 4lb 8 to 10oz trigger pull . Nothing else was done . Still had the old style stock trigger and all stock parts .
If you use the stock striker spring and the stock trigger return spring you will have a lighter trigger pull maybe in the4lb range too . Keep the other apex parts in it .
Try to use your trigger pull gauge where the center of your trigger finger would rest on the trigger aas using those gauges in the wrong pull spot can cause pull weight to vari . Rack the slide and hold the pistol tight to a bench then try pulling the trigger but repeat 10 times for an average pull weight . Range time so you can get to know your pistol well with a few hundred rounds can help .
