M&P

[loknload]

I'm going to have to ask,,, hate to but I really don't have a clue!
What is the average price to pay for an M&P in .38 Spl. Stumbled across this at a local shop I frequent. It looks in real nice original condition with no medallion walnut stocks. SN#6378xx didn't get or see a letter code. I got to excited in finding this and stupid me didn't take any pics.
It's been there on consignment and the asking price is $400.
It definitely has my interest.

 

[Göring's S&W]

Blue or nickel? Barrel length? Square or round butt? Do the grips SN to the gun? Is there a star by the SN? Are there any date codes such as "5.52" or "10.47" on the grip frame? Does the gun have an adjustable rear right? The stocks would be correct for a revolver from the 1920s. IIRC that non-medallion convex type was from 1920 to the early 1930s.

You need to answer all of these questions BEFORE we can answer your question. You could instead post some good pictures.

 

[DWalt]

SN#6378xx (no prefix) probably is an M&P shipped about early 1932. Value is completely dependent upon finish condition and overall originality (assuming there are no mechanical problems). We can't know anything about that. IN GENERAL, any M&P which is mechanically sound and tight, and in shootable condition will be worth at least about $300 in a retail setting. If everything is original (including grips) and it has a nice blued finish (not re-blued), perhaps $400-$450. With original box, add at least $100. Original Nickel finish might also add a little premium. And those with shorter barrels (especially 2" barrels) tend to sell for more. And then there are wide regional price differences. Guns seem to bring somewhat better prices in California.

 

[loknload]

Gentlemen thanks for your response.
This handgun was blued and had a 6" barrel and showing in my opinion little wear, didn't appear to be reblued either. It was tight and mechanically sound as well. I would have no problem taking it to the range. No box a far as I know and it had original grips at least in my opinion. It was round butt
The owner of the shop wasn't there so I couldn't quiz her for any details.
No star at the SN# that I noticed. Non adjustable sights. Bore looked good as well as the cylinder.
I know pics would help and stupid me didn't take any. I feel this was the real deal but just don't know a ball park figure.
Thanks for your assistance I do appreciate it
LnL

 

[murphydog]

A RB 6" M & P is an unusual variation, so if it is original and in nice condition it is probably a $400 gun. The stocks are from the 1920 decade as you describe them, so photos would help here.

 

[DWalt]

No medallion stocks wouldn't be expected at that SN - Those from the 1930s were somewhat different, at least the checkered wooden ones, as they had a small silver medallion.. You might check to see if there is a SN penciled or stamped on the inside of the right panel, which should match the butt SN. They may not be original.

 

[jmace57]

Grips from the 1930s look like this:

From the 1920's like this:

 

[loknload]

Grips looked like the bottom ones from the 20's. Will be trying to get back there today? for further examination and then I can speak with the owner of the shop.

 

[Göring's S&W]

Make sure the number on the back of the cylinder matches the number on the butt and the number on the bottom of the barrel. The number on the bottom of the barrel should be preceded with a "B" for BLUE finish. If there is a "*" (star) marking on the butt, the gun went back to the factory. Often, if there is a star marking, there will also be a date code such as "9.52" aka Sept 1952, or a R-S aka refinish standard, a "B" inside of a diamond, (all of those markings should be found on the left grip frame under the grips, but of course check the right grip frame too) and sometimes you will see just a diamond marking on the frame or an individual part. The grips should have their number written in pencil inside the right panel. Sometimes the number is stamped instead on the inside of the right panel.

Any factory markings referring to work done by the factory after production lower the value. If the grips do not serial to the gun, that lowers the value too, but not by a lot as that is a common issue among these vintage revolvers.