M1 Garand

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I found this jewel on a state gun trader page, it's a Springfield receiver built in December 1942, rebarreled in 1955, sold by the CMP as a Service Grade to the previous owner in 2015, he never fired it, the muzzle measures 0+, throat 1. It had a little copper in the bore that was easily removed.
In the photo is my Dad's Field Manual from WWII.
Looking forward to a range trip.
 

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If it`s your first Garand, you will love it.
Suggestion: set elevation at 9 clicks. At 100yds you should be very close using M2 Ball. Avoid Commercial 30 06. Its a bit to warm for long op rod life. If it`s not your first, ignore my remarks, you already know.
Looks like you scored a beauty!
Jim
 
enjoy... and read the manual if you don't have any experience with the garand... or a friend to teach you where and how much grease to use... not just an oil... online videos help too...
 
This is an old manual drawing/diagram of the grease points on the M1 Garand.
 

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Very nice, looks much like the unfired one I have in my safe.
Gifted to me it is a full Fulton Armory rebuild.........along with an original box of 06, with 8 round E clips, in bandoliers.......
 
Looks just like my Service Grade from the CMP. Since it's new wood I used Purple Power on the stock to totally strip it and then 6 coats of BLO. Looks much better.

Without a doubt my most favorite rifle to shoot. Always gets a crowd at the range. I have two of them and shoot them once a year, alternating between the 2. This year it's the HRA's turn. I only shoot GI surplus ammo.
 
I believe the originals used raw linseed oil. Penetrates better supposedly than boiled, but takes much longer to dry. I've read the stocks were immersed in a vat of hot RLO (or tung oil) and hung to drip dry.

The only time we treated M 14 stocks in the Army back in 67 was with raw linseed oil. Of course, do NOT heat linseed oil under any circumstances, but I've wondered if it would be beneficial if you heated the stock with a hair dryer before applying oil.

The reason I've been looking into this is because my M1A stock needs oiling. Kinda hard to find raw oil at the hardware store, but artist supply stores have it. I've got a can somewhere.

As you probably know, linseed oil on rags will set up a chemical reaction after use and will ignite. An airtight storage container should be used to store used rags. Don't know about tung; never used it but I'd treat it the same.

But a lot of oils should work OK. I read a couple of days ago that the French used olive oil on their wood.
 
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Spend time learning how to use that 1907 pattern sling. You will be amazed how solid your shooting position can be with that sling.
 
I have a little expert badge here somewhere, that I earned with one of those old rifles. I believe it weighed 11 pounds in the morning when we started out and at least 43 on the way back to the barracks in the evening.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
I have a WW2 Springfield garand that Deans Guns reparked and restocked with Wenig wood. I shoot surplus Danish 30-06 ammo which is packed in garand clips and bandoliers. I have 3 crates of that stuff. It is berdan primed tho. Got mine from CMP several years ago for $400. Deans Guns cost another $400. Keep yours well greased.
 
I currently have 2 Garands (should be 4 but that is a story for another life). My DCM Garand is a December '41 Springfield still chambered in '06. My second (store purchase) is a 195X HRA, that I had converted and accurized into an M1MKII for NRA Service Rifle matches. When I oil my stocks, I handrub a product called "Linspeed" which my departed old time gunsmith highly recommended.
 

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