M1917... what have I got?

[ExMachina1]

Just inherited what seems to be a S&W M1917 military issue revolver in 45ACP. Serial number (I think) dates it to 1918 but what's got me confused is the finish and stocks--they don't look like other M1917s that I see on the website.

The finish is a gorgeous deep blue ( not parkarized) and the metal is of a high polish. Aren't military guns parkarized?

The stocks are also not the plane wooden stocks I've seen. Instead they are checkered and have an inlaid gold/bronze "S&W" escutcheon.

Gun is otherwise marked as an M1917 military issue (us government property under barrel, flaming bomb, etc). All the markings are crisp too.

Just really confused as the gun looks almost new, (with the exception of a few superficial scratches). Wouldn't you expect a ca. 1918 gun to have been issued at some point?

I can provide pics if it would help, but am really more interested in learning about the history of these revolvers...

EDIT. should I shoot it??

 

[Iggy]

Pictures would help a great deal.

 

[cjwils]

Does it say US Army, etc, etc on the butt?

 

[Jack Flash]

Serial number (xx the last two) would help date it, or date it yourself here:
U.S. Military Dates of Manufacture

Pictures are the best, but if that's not easy, a detailed description of all markings is helpful. You may have a post-war (which one? take your pick) commercial M1917, which may be very valuable. Or it may be a nice re-blue, which is still nothing to sneeze at.

Military guns were not originally Parkerized, but some that were taken out of stores and re-worked / re-issued for WWII were Parked. Stocks are easy to change so anyone could have swapped stocks on this one at any time. Or not. If you know how to remove them properly, check to see if the serial number is penciled in on the inside.

The markings you describe make it sound like military issue, but left over parts were used in the civilian (or commercial) versions. So more information is required. Not all M1917s made during WWI went to the trenches, so even if it was war-time issue, it may have lead a pamper life nevertheless. So lack of "character" does not necessarily mean the finish isn't original.

 

[ExMachina1]

Here's a quick pic:

 

[ExMachina1]

Thanks for the link. The serial number (323xx) does indeed date this to 1918. Is this the kind of gun it would be worth getting a letter from S&W for?...

 

[Jack Flash]

I read the serial number as 625xx which puts its ship date as June, 1918. So those stocks are not original, which is not to say they are not valuable in their own right. People often swapped stocks to suit themselves, never dreaming that someone might care almost one hundred years later!

I do NOT think that one has been re-blued. It is a very nice one, even without the original stocks. Take good care of it. Shooting it on nice days at the range should not affect its value. Just don't holster-carry it or bang it around a lot.

Updated to add:
I really misread the serial number! So it was March, 1918.
I would get a letter for it, but it's your decision if you want to spend the money.

 

[deyomatic]

I would absolutely shoot it, assuming it is in good working condition.

 

[ExMachina1]

I read the serial number as 625xx which puts its ship date as June, 1918. So those stocks are not original, which is not to say they are not valuable in their own right. People often swapped stocks to suit themselves, never dreaming that someone might care almost one hundred years later!

I do NOT think that one has been re-blued. It is a very nice one, even without the original stocks. Take good care of it. Shooting it on nice days at the range should not affect its value. Just don't holster-carry it or bang it around a lot.


Updated to add:
I really misread the serial number! So it was March, 1918.

Thanks for this info. So if these are not original/stocks, when/where might they date from?

FWIW, I just took the stocks off and they have a darkened area on the inside that matches the curves/contours of the internal profile of the grip frame perfectly. Seems like they have either been on this gun a long time, or at least have been on a gun with a similar frame.

 

[Muley Gil]

You have a re-blued 1917 that is wearing 1910-1920 commercial grips. The purple hue on the cylinder indicates a reblue.

 

[Jack Flash]

Interesting information, Muley Gil. I thought that the cylinder turned purple with the passage of time because of heat treating the cylinder received.

For information about the stocks, here is a very good thread. You can compare your stocks to the numerous pictures.
Smith & Wesson N Frame Stocks / Grips - A Reference Guide

 

[ExMachina1]

Interesting. Right now don't think think this is a reblue, at least not unless the case hardening has been redo as well. The pics don't show it perfectly but the case colors on the hammer and trigger are still pretty good too. Just a general dimming with the only noticable wear on the hammer spur

 

[JH1951]

Not intending to be a wet dish towel, but with the pictures provided, I suspect a reblue as well. I would not bet the farm on it although, until there is further examination.
Please get us more pictures if possible, with and without the stocks on, as well as both sides. There will be lots more information/opinions - remember, a picture is worth a thousand words.
No matter what, I like it! And I like the stocks too!

 

[daddio202]

I love it- reblued or not -and those service stocks are my favorite. If I was to have a gun that is not totally original the op's gun would be it. Very nice. Maybe you should get a letter on it.

 

[ExMachina1]

What is the tell tale sigh of a reblue?

 

[Muley Gil]

What is the tell tale sigh of a reblue?

Well, if S&W did it, you may not be able to tell. Some of the things that point to a re-blue include dished out screw holes; side plate fit where there is a large gap; soft features like lettering and other stamps; blue hammers and triggers or nickel hammers and triggers; rounded edges, etc.

BTW, can you post a picture of the right side?

 

[Jack Flash]

Good summary by Muley Gil. Add to that, sometimes protruding pins have their round ends flattened (polished down to the level of the surrounding frame). Your pins look nice and rounded to me. The lettering looks nice and sharp, not "washed out" or blurred. But I have been wrong before ...

 

[vonn]

Very nice,I sure would like to find one that looked just like it.

 

[VaTom]

Well, if S&W did it, you may not be able to tell. Some of the things that point to a re-blue include dished out screw holes; side plate fit where there is a large gap; soft features like lettering and other stamps; blue hammers and triggers or nickel hammers and triggers; rounded edges, etc.

BTW, can you post a picture of the right side?

Great post. Also look for signs of putting that have been buffed out. Especially under the grips. Wooden grips that become wet can hold moisture against the frame especially if wood is not sealed on backside and the gun was a working \ duty gun carried outside a lot. Always pull grips for inspection on a used gun. If seller won't do it i would consider passing.

 

[ExMachina1]

Well, if S&W did it, you may not be able to tell.

Would this be something a Smith and Wesson letter would report? Trying to decide if the gun is worth the $$$ for a letter.