M1A issue

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Figure there's got to be a few M1A gurus around here. I've got a SOCOM that's a blast to shoot - literally - up to about 30-40 rounds. Somewhere around that count range things just stop. The trigger pull yields not the anticipated detonation, but a mere click. The non-fired primers show no impact marks. It doesn't appear to be ammo related. Although I'm not shooting rapidly at all the only thing I can think of is things get hot enough to impact functionality. Anyone ever have this experience?

Thanks….
 
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Figure there's got to be a few M1A gurus around here. I've got a SOCOM that's a blast to shoot - literally - up to about 30-40 rounds. Somewhere around that count range things just stop. The trigger pull yields not the anticipated detonation, but a mere click. The non-fired primers show no impact marks. It doesn't appear to be ammo related. Although I'm not shooting rapidly at all the only thing I can think of is things get hot enough to impact functionality. Anyone ever have this experience?

Thanks….

Springfield Armory Customer Service is second to none... just send it back to them.
They'll get it going right!!
 
My first thought is the trigger assembly lock up. You might check to see if the trigger housing is in place and properly locked.
Does it have a synthetic or wood stock ?
Other than that I would contact SA.

The SOCOM is a sweet rifle.

Tim
 
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As others have said, let Springfield handle it, they are A+My M1A
wore out the barrel from competition shooting some 15 years ago, I contacted them, they had it picked up via Fed X. They replaced the barrel, shipped it back along with the old barrel @ no charge to me. Great company.
 

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Yep, send it back. Before you send it back, check the position of the firing pin in the bolt. As you know, the firing pin "floats" in the body of the bolt like the M1. The gap, at the back end of the bolt on your rifle may be large enough to allow small particles of trash or brass to wedge between the bolt body and rear of the firing pin.

Good luck and good shooting!
 
Figure there's got to be a few M1A gurus around here. I've got a SOCOM that's a blast to shoot - literally - up to about 30-40 rounds. Somewhere around that count range things just stop. The trigger pull yields not the anticipated detonation, but a mere click. The non-fired primers show no impact marks. It doesn't appear to be ammo related. Although I'm not shooting rapidly at all the only thing I can think of is things get hot enough to impact functionality. Anyone ever have this experience?

Thanks….
What do you do to get it operating properly again? Clean it, let it cool off, beat on the side of it....?

I agree with the others let SA take care of it. I have a M1A Loaded and it's never done that, even after a 100 round afternoon. Probably have a 1500 or so round count through mine over ten years.
 
^Yeah, before you send that rifle off, take it apart and give it a good visual inspection. That doesn't sound like a serious problem.
 
What are you using for a lubricant?

what brand of ammo are you using?
 
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Does it have a synthetic or wood stock ?

Synthetic

What do you do to get it operating properly again? Clean it, let it cool off, beat on the side of it....?

Pretty much just let it cool off...well, maybe beat on the side just a little.

What are you using for a lubricant?

what brand of ammo are you using?

The actual brands are escaping me right now but it's high-grade grease and oil in the appropriate spots, and I've been using Winchester White Box and PMC Bronze.

And I do believe I'll give it a good inspection before I look to send it off, although I'm not real sure I'd see a problem if it bit me. Anyway, thanks again for all the input.
 
Some years back all the M1A's shipped from Springfield Armory included TM 9-1005-223-12…..page 31, Failure to fire….Bolt Not fully forward and locked/ defective ammunition/ Firing pin worn, broken,Firing pin worn, damaged /Broken hammer…

The United States Marine…Essential subjects….M14 Rifle….page 159..The Bore and Chamber should be cleaned and dried. A light coat of oil should be placed on all metal parts, except those which come in contact with Ammunition, the gas piston the interior of the gas cylinder and the gas plug…..Lubrication before firing….Rifle grease should be applied to the lip of the Receiver, the camming surfaces in the hump of the Op-Rod, the locking recesses in the Receiver and the Bolt camming Lug…page 160…. Gas cylinder plug, pour a small quantity of Bore cleaner in the plug, insert and rotate the cleaning brush Clean and dry the plug with patches. Gas cylinder…Swab cylinder bore with two patches soaked with bore cleaner. Dry the Cylinder with clean patches. Do not use abrasives in cleaning the cylinder and do not oil interior surfaces. Face of the Bolt…Clean with a patch and Bore cleaner, paying particular attention to to the inside edges. Clean with dry patches and oil lightly.Spindle valve…Depress the Valve and rotate it several times after each days firing. Do not disassemble.

Try the above simple maintenance steps and see if it clears up your issues before sending it back to Springfield…
 
The bit that puzzles me the most is no dimple on the unfired primers. When I chamber a cartridge, even that usually produces a slight dimple because of the floating firing pin. If the trigger releases the hammer, then the bolt should be fully in battery. Something is preventing the firing pin from moving forward.
 
Time to dissemble and clean bolt, while inspecting firing pin? Sounds like it's gunked up.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWhvvTm1cLk[/ame]
 
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I think it's been covered but it's also been drowned out in the noise of other posts, so I'll say it again.

It's unlikely anything is wrong with the rifle, other than inadequate lubrication.

The M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, M1/M1A and Ruger Mini 14, all use a very similar rotating bolt design that relies on an L shaped firing pin and a bridge in the receiver to prevent out of battery firing.

Simply put until the bolt rotates all the way into battery and allows the arm on the end of that firing pin to clear the receiver bridge, the firing pin is physically blocked from going far enough forward to contact the primer. Additionally in the M1A there is a camming surface on the back of the bolt that prevents the hammer from contacting the firing pin until the bolt has rotated fully into battery.

A few things can prevent full bolt rotation into battery from occurring:

1) Inadequate lubrication. The general rules on any of the above mentioned firearms are:
- if it rotates, oil it;
- if it slides grease it; and as a catch all
- if it's shiny, grease it.

It ain't a Glock. Run it wet, and grease *all* the shiny spots: inside the receiver; in the slide track; on the slide; on the bottom of the barrel; on the bolt; on the op rod guide and spring; and on the hammer. Too much is better than not enough.

2) A fouled chamber or out of spec case, that doesn't allow the cartridge to fully enter the chamber and allow bolt to rotate all the the way into battery. This is usually obvious on careful inspection before you try to eject the case, and if it's sticky on ejection that's another good indication of a problem.

3) In rare cases there can be some tolerance issues on commercial M1As that may prevent the firing pin from clearing the bridge.

If and only if you have verified 1 & 2 are not the issue, contact SA customer service and let them know you've excluded the first two issues.

But given it runs fine for a couple magazines before you have issues it's far more likely to be 1 or 2.

—-

I'm not normally a big fan of chrome lined barrels unless you live in a swamp. But one major advantage of a chrome lined chamber is that the surface is very hard and any crud in the chamber is more likely to be mashed into the brass and ejected rather than left in the chamber. That has a clear advantage in reliability in an M1A being run with a dirtier powder.

Unfortunately replacement barrels are usually shipped with a .010" short chamber that is not chrome plated. It's then easily head spaced with a chamber reamer. If you order a chrome lined chamber, it will come fully reamed and chromed and the barrel that is properly timed and headspaced, but only on a correctly spec'd receiver.
 
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