M28-2 Sticky Cylinder Release

DWalt

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Hi. I just obtained an M28-2 .357, and it has a problem I need some help with. The problem is when one specific chamber is at the topmost position, I can't release the cylinder without undue force (i.e., I push the cylinder release fully forward, but it is very difficult to push the cylinder out). When the other five chambers are topmost, the cylinder flops out easily. Timing and lockup seem fine, and it shoots without any problems. Can anyone tell me what might be causing the sticking and what to do about it? I have no problems in taking S&Ws apart if necessary, and have done so numerous times. I just need some indication as to what to look for when I do.
 
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Bent ejector rod, maybe? Open the cylinder and give it a spin. If the rod is bent you may be able to see it while it's spinning. Any resistance in the cylinder release?
 
I already had thought of that, sorry I didn't mention it earlier. At least to the unaided eye, the ejector rod seems straight with no runout. Also, there is no indication of a sprung crane in any position.
 
Check the end of the ejector rod. If there is a burr or if it's not flat it could catch on the forward lug. Perhaps take a file and file the end down a couple strokes. Should help it out.
 
It's not the forward lug. End of rod looks good, also I retracted and held the spring loaded lock with a small vise grip to ensure no engagement with the rod. It didn't help any. It seems the rear cylinder release inside the frame is ok, at least the round plunger is flush with the surface when the release button is all the way forward.
 
Make certain you are tightening the rod properly. If it is tightened correctly, and the rod isn't bent, or the end is not damaged, the only likely reason is the center pin isn't long enough. As you push the latch, the lug is catching on the end of the ejector rod, binding the cylinder from opening.

Shorten the end of the ejector rod but leave the center pin alone. This will help the condition. File the end down by a couple strokes.

The lug is not the problem. The ejector rod is.
 
I wouldn't expect to see this on a 28 but the muzzle end of the center pin can become mushroomed slightly and cause problems. Or as mentioned the centerpin is too short. Having it stick out of the ejector rod .010" when the cylinder release is pushed forward helps the cylinder not stick.
 
I'm just about out of ideas on this. This afternoon in desperation I tore the M28 completely down (except for removing the barrel and rear sight), degunked, inspected, lubed, and reassembled it. Nothing looked wrong with any of the parts during this process, but after all this was done, it still sticks on the one chamber. I don't believe anything is wrong with the ejection rod, as I unscrewed it and looked at it carefully. I did note a few marks on the knurled end where someone apparently had used an unprotected pair of pliers at some time in the past to unscrew (or maybe tighten) it. Thing that gets me is why the cylinder sticks ONLY at one chamber location, and none of the other five. If something was amiss, why would it affect the cylinder release at only that one cylinder position? Everything is good and tight, timing is perfect, and everything looks very square through the window. I'm about ready to live with the condition rather than wasting any more time on trying to fix it, as it shoots fine as-is. I don't think the problem has anything to do with the center pin being too short, but I will try to stone down the knurled end of the rod a little. See my previous discussion re the muzzle end of the ejector rod.
 
I have a 28-2 with the same problem but mine sticks on two cylinders. Someone had used pliers to unscrew the ejector rod and it was just slightly deformed......very hard to see. I filed it down just a bit and improved the way the cylinder opens but I still feel a difference in the trigger pull on these two cylinders. I'm thinking the ejector rod is just slightly bent.
 
As I said, there is evidence of someone having used pliers on the end of the ejector rod, and that may well be a contributing factor. The rod I have does not seem to be deformed or bent, at least not enough to be visible. I may try to get a new rod and see if that helps.
 
Measure your Cylinder/Forcing cone space all chambers with a feeler gauge.
Note any inconsistencies.
That might reveal if the cylinder is not aligned correctly.
 
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