M28, timing issue and hand question

[Swed]

Hello!
I have a M 28 with some small problems.
It does not lock up properly on some holes in the cylinder.
But the hand, what type should it be? I bought an ovesize hand bit I am not sure it is the correct type, I am hesitant of using it.
Please look at the picture. I have read about floating hands and such things..
Serial number of the gun is S202185

 

[Dosgatos]

If it doesn't lock up my first guess would be the cylinder stop and its spring, rather than the hand. Hold the gun with a light behind it to see if the cylinder stop (under the cylinder) is rising to engage the cylinder on each cycle. I have a Highway Patrolman which would not lock up on each cycle and the problem turned out to be a worn cylinder stop spring. New spring and the gun works perfectly! I have not installed a oversized hand, but my understanding is that they need to be individually fitted to the gun.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

You do not have to worry about Floating Hands,They did not come around until much later.

 

[DWalt]

Your SN would date shipment to 1960-61. I also would suggest checking for proper operation of the cylinder stop before doing anything else. You have not really described exactly what is/is not happening.

 

[Swed]

Well, it did not have enough travel to let the cylinder stop lock. Once it was locked it was locked.
I bent the hand sligtly, not visible but now it is much better, now there is maybe only one hole were it just locks as the hammer falls in very very very slow double action, on the others I can clearly hear the lock go in before the hammer falls in double action.
My problem now is that after shooting magnum cases they stick when ejected 2-3mm. I have tried and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, with brushes and clp and patches, but I can not get it to work properly.. Must be from much use of 38 special. I might give up and trade the gun for something else...

 

[calmex]

I fitted an oversized hand in a Model 28. It would not carry up well on 4 of the 6 chambers when cocked slowly. There are several threads on this forum that deal with fitting one and I read them all and then bit the bullet and gave it a try.

Generally, don't touch the frame. Do all the work on the hand. If you botch the job, you can always buy another oversize hand. You cannot easily buy another frame. So if you need to touch something with a file, touch the hand.

As I recall, I had to file the hand to first fit the frame window. Then I had to disassemble and reassemble the gun taking just a few swipes across the top part of the hand that engages the cylinder teeth so that the gun would cock without resistance in both single and double action.

It took longer than I thought, ending up being a project I had to do over several days instead of just hours and I left the gun and it's parts in a big tupperware container in my safe between work sessions.

But when finished, my Model 28 had the action I wanted and it still has it. It is delightfully pre-timed on all 6 chambers now and is sweet in either single or double action. Go slow. Work on the hand, not the frame. At least, that's what I did. I am no expert, nor do I play one on T.V., so there's no real reason for me to even post except I did this once.

I am sure there is as much chance of you finding a gunsmith in Northern Sweden more qualified than you to do the work as there was of me finding one here in Central Mexico who could do the work. However, since the time I did this, my gunsmith in Queretaro has done amazing work on timing revolvers and I am sure that he could now install an oversize hand with complete competence. At the time, however, I felt it was probably best to do it myself.

And remember: you can always get another hand. It cannot be any harder for you to get gun parts in Sweden than it is for me here in Mexico and we both know it can be done if one is determined to do it. Anyway, that's my advice on the matter. Oh, and at the very end, the difference between "not quite right" and "sweet" seems to be little more than a file stroke so when you're close, slow down even more and work carefully.

Good luck. Go slow.

 

[DWalt]

My problem now is that after shooting magnum cases they stick when ejected 2-3mm. I have tried and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, with brushes and clp and patches, but I can not get it to work properly.. Must be from much use of 38 special. I might give up and trade the gun for something else...

I have never had that problem in any of my .357s, however, I usually clean all chambers thoroughly after each firing using a brass brush. Therefore, I do not get any fouling buildup, even though I seldom use any ammunition other than .38 Special in them. However, if you can find a standard 3/8" reamer (.375") you might run it into your chambers. It is slightly smaller than the nominal .357 chamber diameter (.380" or 9.655mm) but it may be enough to remove any fouling accumulation. A better way would be to use a .357 chamber finish reamer, but you are probably not likely to find one of those in Sweden.

 

[tlay]

One thing that will help your chambers is soak the holes with some kind of cleaner that cuts carbon buildup for a couple of hours. Now get some 357 empty brass and run them in and out of the hole many times. Follow up with a brass brush and then clean. This should help. I am sure you have buildup from shooting 38 specials. Does the same happen for the 38s? If not that is your problem. If the same thing happens with the 38s you have a much bigger problem.

 

[rgm36]

locking up

I have seen worn extractor star gear/teeth cause the problem you're describing.

It would "not" likely be the hand - if the hand is pushing far enough on some cylinders. If it is pushing far enough on some cylinders, it has to be pushing far enough in general.

It is more likely that the hand is pushing on a worn gear/tooth on the extractor star on those cylinders that aren't being pushed far enough to lock the cylinder. I had a M29 do this.

Check to see if "all" the teeth have the same appearance and wear size. If the teeth are smaller(more worn)on the cylinders that won't lock up because they are not being pushed far enough - it is because the hand does not have enough "tooth" to get the job done.
You will need to replace the star if this is so - but I'm not sure if a new star will just install and work without custom fitting. It is possible that the new star will need to be custom fit (timed) by filing the teeth to the appropriate size to accomplish the appropriate "push" distance. That aught to be fun, you might want to have a pro do that.

The others are also correct when telling you to check the cylinder stop "spring."
This spring loads the stop and will assist the cylinder in travel to it's full locked detent by pushing on the ramp in the cylinder. That "push" in the ramp will aid in turning the cylinder all the way.

Also - make sure the cylinder stop is fitting into every cylinder stop notch. If the notches in the cylinder are burred, it may inhibit the stop from engaging.