M48-2(really?)

JeffNW

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Just acquired a stamped M48-2 which I got with a trade + cash at a LGS(big box) and was out the door feeling fairly happy with the trade(still am)as it came with end-labeled box, papers, serial numbered grips and about 95% bluing.

Subsequently via some research mostly here(am relatively new to S&Ws)I saw that the serial number-3K736XX-put my M48-2 manufacture date in around 1971-about 4 years after the model 2 changed to 3.

Furthermore, as the photos below show, the rear site leaf screw is mounted directly over the forcing cone which, I understand, is one of the changes S&W made on the -3 series K frames.

So, what I've actually got is a M48-3 marked as a -2.

What to take away from all this?:what a great informational site this is!(and a lot of fun too :D). And hope this info can be helpful-and is correct-for future forum members interested in the M48 and other dash numbered K frames(BTW-bought a good supply of 22 mags last summer).

M48-2bx_zpszxmkcozh.jpg


M48-2label_zpsbhf4oxwr.jpg


sitescrw1_zps4bdbunw1.jpg


M48frccone_zpshqsej0q7.jpg


Here it is w/target stocks(just purchased these only last night from the classified section of this forum-another example of the speedy efficiency of the USPS! ;) ).

M48-2outsde_zpsm99fzq5n.jpg
 
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I LIKE it! That looks like more fun than would be legal, in most states.
Oh, nice target grips, too. ;) They do set off the blue!
 
I have a 48-4, 4". Love it. I looked for 5 years before finding it. I think not being a pinned gun is what makes mine a dash 4. Not sure.

Mine shoots really well. Also shoot the CCI WRF in it and it shoots fantastically well with it. You might try it if you find some.

I have three K frames, mod 19. mod 18 and mod 48. Four inch barrel K frame revolvers just seem to be my favorite.

Enjoy yours.
 
My 4"48 should be marked 48-2, but is actually marked Model 48. don't think this really matters. How does yours shoot? mine shoots good for the first cylinder, but need to be wiped of under the extractor, before any more ammo can be loaded.:mad: Kinda takes a lot of the fun out of it.
 
My 4"48 should be marked 48-2, but is actually marked Model 48. don't think this really matters. How does yours shoot? mine shoots good for the first cylinder, but need to be wiped of under the extractor, before any more ammo can be loaded.:mad: Kinda takes a lot of the fun out of it.

Haven't had the pleasure of shooting it yet-plan to do so tomorrow.
 
My 4"48 should be marked 48-2, but is actually marked Model 48. don't think this really matters. How does yours shoot? mine shoots good for the first cylinder, but need to be wiped of under the extractor, before any more ammo can be loaded.:mad: Kinda takes a lot of the fun out of it.

That's a strange "defect" to have on your Model 48. Wonder what caused it. My 48-4 has had at least a thousand rounds through it and never a hiccup.
 

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The problem with my 4" model 48, is the barrel is too short to cause the powder load to fully burn. The unburnt powder then is left in the barrel, chambers, and around the forcing cone. When the empties are extracted the powder flecks are then introduced under the extractor star. when the fresh rounds are pushed into the cylinder they never seem to sit flush in the chambers, this makes it impossible to close the cylinder until the wayward powder and residue is removed. I havn't shot that revolver in close to 10 years, due to the cost and availability of ammo. I think that an intrepid ammo manufacturer would have a wonderful product, if they produce a lead nosed .22 cal round specifically designed to function in .22 mag revolvers and bolt action rifles. :D
 
Izzydog,

I wonder if the new Speer short barrel .22 Mag ammo would cure the problem with your 48?

I think that the load uses faster burning powder to get max performance in 2" from the .22 WMR. Might be worth a try.
 
The problem with my 4" model 48, is the barrel is too short to cause the powder load to fully burn. The unburnt powder then is left in the barrel, chambers, and around the forcing cone. When the empties are extracted the powder flecks are then introduced under the extractor star. when the fresh rounds are pushed into the cylinder they never seem to sit flush in the chambers, this makes it impossible to close the cylinder until the wayward powder and residue is removed. I havn't shot that revolver in close to 10 years, due to the cost and availability of ammo. I think that an intrepid ammo manufacturer would have a wonderful product, if they produce a lead nosed .22 cal round specifically designed to function in .22 mag revolvers and bolt action rifles. :D

I may be experiencing the same problem as yours and I actually started a thread about it here but then reread your post.

Here is a picture of my cylinder chambers and extractor star today at the range. Are those whitish granules you see what you refer to as powder flecks? I also had trouble seating the rounds and closing the cylinder.

sandM48_zpshaiz0zw1.jpg


sand2M48_zps13binsw1.jpg


I probably need to get some of that Speer short barrel .22 Mag ammo that JeepinSoldier suggested.
 
Thats' exactly what's happening! I'd love to get some Speer short barreled .22 mag ammo, However here in beautful SC it's purt near impossible to get any .22 mag ammo at all. I will definatly keep my eyes open for some.
 
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