Making a rifle sling from a gunbelt, anyone tried this before?

iLikeOldGunsIlikeNewGuns

iLikeOldGunsIlikeNewGuns

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Hello Lounge prowlers, I don't have any 'extra' cash, or spending cash for that matter, and I need a sling for my Marlin, aaaand I have an extra gunbelt with ammo loops that I never wear, because I have one that fits me much better. The loops fit my 30-30 rounds even better than they fit .45LC rounds anyway, so I'd like to somehow make it into a rifle sling for my Marlin 336. Just curious if anyone on this site has already done something similar to this, and if they have any advice. I haven't done any leather work since I was in my young teens and that was almost two decades ago, and I'd like to get it right on the first try. I know I'll need swivels that I don't have yet, but they're not gonna fasten themselves! :) any help or advice will be greatly appreciated, the belt appears to be about four feet long

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I do holster work, so I'll try to help you out. Honestly, might be cheaper to buy one but here goes.

You'll need:
1) a cutting tool. A single edged razor blade will work. X-acto knife is better. I have a patch knife that I use.
Looking at it a second time, you'll have very little cutting to do=just a little trimming at the end.
2) a metal edged ruler for aligning cuts. All steel ruler works the best.
3) Something to burnish the edges. A smooth piece of hardwood will work. A piece of hardwood dowel in a drill press should do pretty well.
4) Something to cut round holes.
5) A leather finish and a softener. Maybe a dye.

Steps:

A) Cut belt to width you want using the straight edge and the razor blade. Measure twice, cut once. I recommend clamping everything down, so things don't slip.

B) Measure and punch holes at ends in order to fold ends over slung loops (metal parts). You can secure them with pop-rivets, chicago screws (screw fasteners), screw back conchos (look good) or leather bootlaces (stronger than leather lace)

C) Burnish edges to smooth out. This is done by polishing with the wooden dowel almost to the point of scorching the leather edge. It helps to polish with the finest sandpaper you can find==that might be good enough.

D) Finish leather. You might want to dye it. If you have access to walnut hulls or coffee, you can brew a SUPER-STRONG solution (boil for hours!). This makes a nice dark brown. For black, use vinegaroon. This is made by soaking iron in vinegar. Set a pad of steel wool on fire. After it burns out (the impurities are gone) put it in a jar of plain old vinegar for a couple of days or so. Brush it on the leather (test it on a scrap first). Might need to do it a couple of time. This makes a very good TRUE black (not a dark blue). Leather will be very stiff. Apply several coats of softener--I use Olive oil. Neatsfoot will work. Or buy some expensive cream. Put in a warm place (such as out in the sun) Preserve and weatherize with saddle soap
or Skidmore's dressing. Some paste shoe polish if you want.


My cost for this priceless (price=worth, right?) knowledge? Post some pics when done?

PM me if you have questions.
 
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Wow, you certainly have leather experience! i think for this little project I'm going to keep the re-working the leather to a minimum, I like the length, width, and color of the leather just fine, so for now I'll mostly be just doing step B of your recommended procedure. But I am copying and pasting this to a text document to save for an enhancement of this sling in the future, and any other future leather projects, thank you very much for your guidance! and I agree with your assessment of home-made value, I'm a sentimental person, and I enjoy and treasure priceless in the sense that my first 1911 (a S&W of course :) ) cost me X amount of $$ but I'll never sell it because to me it's priceless :)
 
I might Lock-Tite the conchos, I've been checking a few cool ones out on ebay, and once they're on the sling I won't need to remove them any time soon, and I definitely don't want them unscrewing themselves while I'm carrying the rifle!
 
Looks like I'll have to do a little cutting on the ends after all, as I can't find any 2" swivels, only smaller. I've checked all through Uncle Mike's and Midway
 
I've only been doing holster work for about 6 months. Made a couple of SASS rigs for the wife and I.

Tip: Each one gets a LOT better than the one before!
 
Out of curosity, is the rifle already equipted with swivels?

If not, they will be dificult to fit in properly. It is easy to ruin a gun stock trying to install swivels.
 
oldman45 said:
Out of curosity, is the rifle already equipted with swivels?

If not, they will be dificult to fit in properly. It is easy to ruin a gun stock trying to install swivels.
Click to expand...

The rifle came with swivel studs already installed, so all's I need is the two metal loops for the leather itself. Great rifle by the way, Marlin 336-BL. Really glad I bought it when it was on sale (NIB).
 
You can easily cut the leather with a hobby knife, and touch up the unfinished edges with shoe polish. Measure twice and cut once!;) You can also burnish the cut edges to a nice finished edge by sanding them with a sanding block and fine sandpaper, then rubbing a bit of wax on them and rubbing it in briskly with the side of a Sharpie marker. The ends can be fastened together with Tee nuts and screws, or with common rivets.
 
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