Metal Bolt Rails

Capt_Destro

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Took down my 1522 down and had the bolt fall out the back and hit the floor.. Pretty embarrassing... Came apart on impact and I noticed the aluminum rails bent because the bolt did not ride on them smoothly after. No biggy I got them straightened out and everything is smooth as butter. I know well enough not to bend it like so many others have when it comes to the stories on barrel/flash hider removal.

There shouldn't be any issues right? I guess I'll try and hit the range this week to find out.

I did some looking around and noticed there is no part number for this specific part. I take is S&W doesn't want to sell it? :S

Would be nice to have a spare for the future, it cant cost more than say $20.

Has anyone had any luck securing this parts for the bolt assembly? I would not mind an extra internal parts kit.
 
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The rails are heat treated steel unless something has changed. The only thing that would bend them would be trying to remove the flash hider with the upper assembled. Did you try to take the barrel or flash hider off at any point?

As long as they are straight and the bolt is riding on them smoothly and they go into the end of the chamber like they should then they "should" be ok.. But without conducting a Magneflux Inspection on the metal no one can say for sure.
 
The only thing that would bend them would be trying to remove the flash hider with the upper assembled.

Or dropping the entire BCG on the floor which is what it sounds like he did :eek: .

Providing there are no burrs or damage, especially to the bolt, and if it hand cycles smooth you should be ok.

You should be able to order a replacement from S&W, but it may take a couple of calls and getting the right person. That isn't one of the parts I have a number for, but once you get it and the price please post back. Thanks.
 

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Or dropping the entire BCG on the floor which is what it sounds like he did.

I'll reluctantly admit to doing this as well. The polymer charging handle latch/polymer upper reciever combo isn't well suited for keeping the bolt assembly in the upper. Compared to an actual AR, that is.

As I said, I've dropped mine before. It never came apart, but even if it did, I doubt just dropping it would be enough force to bend the bolt rails. I've filed, sanded, polished on those things for a LOOOONG time and I'll attest to their hardness. They certainly are not aluminum of any formulation.
 
As I said, I've dropped mine before. It never came apart, but even if it did, I doubt just dropping it would be enough force to bend the bolt rails. I've filed, sanded, polished on those things for a LOOOONG time and I'll attest to their hardness. They certainly are not aluminum of any formulation.

Yup, I doubt that dropping the assembly will do anything of note to either the bolt or rails, especially if they were joined.
 
dropped mine on a cement floor(eeeeek) at the range showin a buddy how easy it is to clean that was 5k rounds ago and its been doing fine, not even a ding in the bolt or carrier--but I bet I"ll never do that again lol.
 
When I said bent, I mean just barely enough to make things not so smooth as far as sliding goes.. It didn't take much to fix it. Interesting that it is made from steel, which gives me some confidence in this rifle.

Embarrassingly enough that is what happened, it fell on the ground (wood floor). The bolt fell to the ground and spring popped off the rod. Sorry if I confused anyone saying the whole thing came apart.

I'm going to try picking up a spare for the heck of it. I just like to have extra parts laying around if I can help it.

I am also thrilled that you can buy a whole upper for only $20 (From what I have seen in an earlier thread). Could make swapping from an SBR to a Longer Barrel time saving if you are into that(all legal of course). Especially if you wanted different hand guards for how ever your rifle is set up.

I'll get back to you guys on the price and if they are reluctant to sell it.
 
A barrel would probably cost extra, I was thinking of an extra upper/performance center barrel, and that special hand guard installation kit for the appropriate length.

Would be so simple to just pop off an upper, take out the bolt assembly/charging handle. Drop it into the spare and attach it to the lower.

Just a thought it if you wanted to switch from an SBR to a longer performance center barrel. Optics would still stay zero'd correct?

I see people customize the heck out of these things. Might be fun to tinker with in that regard.
 
That would be quite a deal, unfortunately no.

The upper is just that and doesn't include anything that is attached to it.

Still a deal, might you have a part number to order by.

Would be interesting to see if it really is $20, what's there and if S&W will sell to an individual as a part.

nitewatchman
 
Still a deal, might you have a part number to order by.

Would be interesting to see if it really is $20, what's there and if S&W will sell to an individual as a part.

nitewatchman

The bare upper is $20 and they will sell it to you.

No barrel, handguard, barrel, barrel nut, or anything else.

By the time you buy everything else to make a functioning upper, you can probably buy a used 15-22.
 
The bare upper is $20 and they will sell it to you.

No barrel, handguard, barrel, barrel nut, or anything else.

By the time you buy everything else to make a functioning upper, you can probably buy a used 15-22.

True, but that means I have to buy additional storage!
 
The bare upper is $20 and they will sell it to you.

No barrel, handguard, barrel, barrel nut, or anything else.

By the time you buy everything else to make a functioning upper, you can probably buy a used 15-22.

I was thinking more along the lines of getting an upper to machine it for an OEM Style Dust Guard and perhaps a Forward Assist. While I know that there is no need for either, I would just like to see if I could pull it off well enough to look original.

I have a couple of 4 Axis CNC Mills and a lathe or two but I would hate to butcher the rifle if it doesn't work out. At twenty dollars for a raw upper the risk is minimal. Worse case is I'm out $20, and some time; I'm not any wiser but I am more experienced.

I hate these things that don't make me wise only more experienced.

nitewatchman
 
You aren't going to put material on an upper that isn't already there. Would be better off to 3D Laser Scan the factory upper, tweak it in Solid Works or ProE into an M4 style, then CNC machine a new aluminum upper.

:)
 
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