Micro Splits in Resized Brass

[TIMETRIPPER]

I've annealed 38-40 using the power drill- propane torch method. Brass hardens with age and use and I've found it beneficial to anneal all of the hard to find, older brass I use.
Some of my 38-40 is the older, folded head type and was so hard with age that they would not keep even a factory crimp. A quick anneal fixed it. Annealed brass will also seal up in the chamber better with even light loads and come out cleaner after firing. Some newer brass will benefit from annealing as well.

John

 

[oink]

Damage from “microsplits?” I have experienced hundreds of case splits, both rifle and handgun, over all my years behind a trigger. None ever resulted in damage to the gun.

I've had 2 instances where a split case damaged a gun. They ruptured on the side of the case. One was a Taurus 9mm PT111 G2. The split case (older Blazer aluminum) eroded a noticeable irregular depression in the chamber wall. It looks fairly bad but still works. I expected extraction problems but haven't had any but I no longer trust the gun 100%. I tried to buy a new barrel but Taurus won't sell them. To send it back to them with their parts, labor and shipping it made more sense to just buy another one as it came to about a $20 difference. You know I can't imagine there is any hand fitting to their barrels at that price point so why not sell a barrel?

The second was a 6" 686 no dash. It also suffered a chamber wall erosion. (It was not Blazer aluminum. It was a moderate magnum hand load of 231 pushing a 158 cast GC semi-wadcutter in a well used brass case.) I sent it to Smith and they replaced the cylinder at a very reasonable cost. Unfortunately I no longer know what dash number the gun is as it came back with the newer model cylinder and extractor. It still shoots great but looks strange to me now. It's a shooter so I guess all is well.

If I notice any split the casing goes in the trash. If it's a loaded round I'll pull the bullet first. I won't shoot it.

 

[H Richard]

Depending on how tight the round fits in your chamber may dictate how accurate it might be. Lose fit will lose pressure faster than a tight fit. That's why I only neck size my long range rounds. A very snug fit equals a more consistent round.

 

[rockquarry]

I've had 2 instances where a split case damaged a gun. They ruptured on the side of the case. One was a Taurus 9mm PT111 G2. The split case (older Blazer aluminum) eroded a noticeable irregular depression in the chamber wall. It looks fairly bad but still works. I expected extraction problems but haven't had any but I no longer trust the gun 100%. I tried to buy a new barrel but Taurus won't sell them. To send it back to them with their parts, labor and shipping it made more sense to just buy another one as it came to about a $20 difference. You know I can't imagine there is any hand fitting to their barrels at that price point so why not sell a barrel?

The second was a 6" 686 no dash. It also suffered a chamber wall erosion. (It was not Blazer aluminum. It was a moderate magnum hand load of 231 pushing a 158 cast GC semi-wadcutter in a well used brass case.) I sent it to Smith and they replaced the cylinder at a very reasonable cost. Unfortunately I no longer know what dash number the gun is as it came back with the newer model cylinder and extractor. It still shoots great but looks strange to me now. It's a shooter so I guess all is well.

If I notice any split the casing goes in the trash. If it's a loaded round I'll pull the bullet first. I won't shoot it.

I guess damage is possible but I've never seen it and have had a few (maybe twenty cases) split about halfway below the case necks in the last fifty+years. I can't recall if this ever happened with a semi-auto pistol; I think it was limited to revolvers.

That serves as a reminder we shouldn't shoot brass until it fails. Brass is still a bargain when you consider how many times it can be safely loaded.