Missing Hammer Block, 25-2

[goatsnguns]

Just acquired a 25-2 in 45 ACP and as is normal for me, I pulled the cylinder and removed the side plate. Low and behold, the hammer block was missing. Looks to have had some action work done at some time, as the sides of the hammer are polished and it has a very smooth & light trigger let off. Haven't disassembled it any further as yet.

My question is, does leaving out the hammer block improve performance in the action for competition shooting of some sort?

I have already located a hammer block and it will be installed, but I am curious why a safety item would be removed. Also I guess it would be a good idea to check out the rebound spring, just can't remember how many coils there are supposed to be.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[Peak53]

I bought one once with the mysteriously missing hammer block. It got refitted. 17 coils on the rebound spring

 

[Pef]

I've purchased a lot of S&W revolvers, and two have had missing hammer blocks. I cannot see how removing it would improve performance. Its weight is miniscule, and it has enough play in the slot to preclude drag.

Frankly, using a S&W revolver without a hammer block scares the Beejeezus out of me. Drop that revolver and someone can get killed.

Whenever I buy a used S&W, the hammer block is a mandatory check. They are cheap to replace, so it's not a deal killer if it's not included; but it is a safety killer.

My guess is they are removed by people who 1) think their removal with "smooth" a trigger or 2) think the hammer block is an unnecessary safety, 3) forget to put them back in during reassembly, or 4) don't have the patience to learn how to put them back in.

 

[goatsnguns]

Peak & Pef,

Thanks for the quick response. I will have to check out the few remaining guns that have not had the internals inspected.
Thanks for the coil count.
I ordered the hammer block from Numrich….is there a better source?

Thanks,

 

[jack the toad]

My question is, does leaving out the hammer block improve performance in the action for competition shooting of some sort?

IIRC, years ago that was the theory with some action tuners.

 

[goatsnguns]

Jack,

Thanks, I thought I may have heard that.

 

[Pef]

Peak & Pef,

Thanks for the quick response. I will have to check out the few remaining guns that have not had the internals inspected.
Thanks for the coil count.
I ordered the hammer block from Numrich….is there a better source?

Thanks,

Numrich, Brownells or Midway. I believe the hammer block may vary slightly in size depending on the dash (perhaps lock/no lock revolvers?). Anyway, as long as your guns "dash" number is in the range that corresponds to the part number for the hammer block, you will be good to go.

 

[goatsnguns]

Pef,
I checked Brownells first, discontinued item. got it form Numrich

Thanks,

 

[Mike McLellan]

Hammer blocks serve their intended purpose, but they produce a slight, but perceivable degree of drag, or friction, while shooting. ANY friction is anathema to a speed shooter. Those guys have a tendency to put safety second to utility. I'm sure the exceptions will cry foul.

 

[WR Moore]

The guys more likely to pull the hammer block were those who catered to bullseye shooters. Bullseye smiths frequently also turned thumb safeties on 1911s into ornaments on the same theory that the sear might drag on the safety.

Although anyone who read "how to" articles by folks who felt that the part just had to produce some drag might pull the part. I've never been sensitive enough to notice. If the part (and it's channel) is properly deburred, it should drop by gravity and without measureable drag as the rebound slide moves.

 

[old&slow]

Many years ago I had a trigger job done by a well known gunsmith. When I got the firearm back the hammer block was in a 'spare parts' bag. I put the hammmer block back in. I could never tell the difference with or without.

When I work on my revolver 'triggers' I like to stone any burrs or sharp edges and polish the bearing surfaces of the hammer block.