First real question is what are you trying tro accomplish??
The extra length of a K 22 cylinder over a K frame center fire (non 357 mag) is in the rear for the recesses. If you bore a K22 cylinder to say 32 or 38 special you have 2 choices. #1 recess the chambers for the rims or #2. face off the back of the cylinder and extractor arms so the rim is all exposed like a normal non magnum. If you recess the chambers and install the cylinder in a non magnum frame you must take .060 off the forward face of the frame lug so the cylinder clears. I have converted several K22 cylinders to 327 Federal mag. I have did one for my 16-4, 1 for a old 32-20 and 2 for 10-7 frames I converted to 327s.
Plus, while I have never fit a real new K22 cylinder to an early frame, I have fit an early K cylinders to a late K frames. I have stuck a very late production N frame cylinder with the odd arm tips in a 1917 frame with minor fitting. Although the appearance and overall shape of the ratchet teeth has changed, the surface of them that is actually engaged by the hand remains the same as does the cylinders NOMINAL overall length. The older ones vary a bit one from the other. You may or may not have to replace the hand or adjust 1 or more teeth, but no more than normal on any other cylinder swap. The barrel to cylinder gap may also vary a few thousands. But, that can happen on any cylinder swap. J, K or N frame. It is surprising though how they do time though. I have more problems with the need for yoke tube length adjustments, ejector rod length adjustment. When you swap a cylinder you may get lucky and then you may need to do some fitting (I call it fiddling)
Swapping extractors is almost always a problem even if the cylinder is of the same vintage. I believe each cylinder and extractor were match drilled for the alignment pins. Every time I have tried it the pins have never lined up quite well enough for the extractor to close over them. If of the same vintage they will be very close, but not close enough. The only method I have found to work is to remove old pins from cylinder, install the ratchet, stick fired brass in each chamber and then drill 2 new .050 holes in new locations and then loctite pins in those holes in cylinder. I have considered installing pins in old holes in cylinder and flushing them off, then re drilling through the existing ratchet holes This is a bit risky, because if the fill pin turned while drilling it could easily break such a tiny bit and the holes are usually very close and you would only end up with a sliver of used pin left. I did however stick a newer ratchet with the pin holes in the arms in an older cylinder which had the pins near the center then drill through that ratchets pin holes and install pins in the cylinder and everything worked fine.
Why do I know this? I have converted K22 cylinders to 327 federal mag, 22 TCM (recessed it for clips), 22 Harvey Kay Chuck, 22 mag. etc. All except the 22 mag ended up being used in centerfire frames. I changed extractors so I could go from right to left hand rods etc. Right now I have an ugly on the outside K22 cylinder without an extractor because I used it in a nice one I got cheap with no extractor
I also took a model 19 cylinder, which is longer in the rear for recesses, and longer in front because it is a magnum cylinder, machined and fit inserts in each chamber and then reamed those to 22 long rifle to make a duplicate of the hard to find expensive model 53 22 cylinder.
BTW on the new style cylinder that went in the 1917 frame, I wanted to have the big old time end on rod, so I machined and knurled an end and silver soldered it on the end of the newer left hand thread rod.
