Model 1-1/2 Cylinder Stop Question

[zeiglerr]

I posted this on the S&W Smithing forum and didn't get any responses, so maybe they haven't seen anything this old.
I'm working on a Model 1-1/2 and when I removed the drift pins on the top strap I didn't make any notes because the cylinder stop assembly made perfect sense. Now, a week later, I've gone totally brain dead and can't figure out how the spring goes in . I've tried every configuration I can think of, and just can't get it.
The only diagram I've seen is in "Antique Firearms: Assembly/Disassembly" by David Chicoine and he's short the middle pin for the mod. 1-1/2.
Can anybody help, or point me toward a patent diagram so that I can be certain how the cylinder stop is supposed to work? Many Thanks, Reid

 

[opoefc]

The middle pin is the cylinder stop spring pin. It has to go under the hump in the cylinder spring. Easiest way too reassemble these parts, is to put them all together, slide them into the frame slot, put in the pins and screw down the Cylinder stop screw. ( insert the cylinder stop spring in the slot in the cylinder striker) Take a look at the Gun Digest Book of Exploded Firearms Darwings" , 3rd edit ( or later) by Murtz., page 367. It shows the .32 Centerfire, but the parts you are reassembling are the same in the Rimfire as the Centerfire. Hope that helps, Ed.

 

[zeiglerr]

Ed - Thanks very much for the help. I left the striker spring screwed onto the cylinder stop which may be why I had a hard time seeing how things work. Also I had the stop spring backward. I'm sure this will put me on the right track. If not, I'll check the diagram you referenced. Great! -Reid

 

[zeiglerr]

Update

Got it back together. The hook on the end of the spring goes under the center pin with the flat end of the spring toward the front of the gun. In the proper orientation, the flat of the spring sits above the baseline of the channel and bears on the front bottom of the cylinder stop assembly. The spring lifts the front end of the cylinder stop and it pivots on the front pin providing downward pressure at the back end. My problem was that I had bent the spring slightly in a previous assembly attempt, so it layed flat in the channel and did nothing. This is an easy fix in case someone has a non-working cylinder stop with apparently no spring power. The only pin that really needs to come out (with a brass drift) is the front hinge pin, and the screw on top for the striker spring doesn't need to be removed. Just slide the assembly back and up to unhook it from the rear pin and lift up. Carefully bend the spring upward on the side toward the front of the gun and reassemble.
Thanks for the help, Reid

 

[DCWilson]

Excellent post and thread. Thank you all for the discussion. I knew I was going to be facing the same problem with a No. 2 Army if I can ever find the cylinder stop spring I need, and this gives me a leg up. Fortunately I have all the other parts; only the spring has gone AWOL.

 

[zeiglerr]

Thanks, I put some additional photos and explanation on the S&W Smithing Forum today to answer some questions about orientation of the spring. -Reid

 

[opoefc]

David, That AWOL spring is an easy one to make, however Ron Curtis has a bunch of parts for No. 2 Armies - I know, 'cause I sold them to him. Maybe he can supply you an original spring. Ed.

 

[hobby-gunsmith]

Cylinder stop spring

David, That AWOL spring is an easy one to make, however Ron Curtis has a bunch of parts for No. 2 Armies - I know, 'cause I sold them to him. Maybe he can supply you an original spring. Ed.

Do you have the phone number or E-mail to Ron Curtis. I believe the 1 1/2 and #2 Tip up Cylinder Stop springs (short one with loop for middle pin) are the same. The third spring I made was not very well heat treated. Also, by the view of the picture, the spring has a slight bend up for the third pin. I did not have a drawing for the pin and made one with only a straight end instead of bending upward. I broke off that portion when i, in haste, withdrew it from the gun. Thanks.
Nick