Model 10-7 reliability problems

[collim1]

I have a beautiful 2" round butt model 10-7 I won in a GB auction last year. It is by far the most beautiful Smith revolver I own. It's also the most finicky and most unreliable.

Just 40-60 rounds is enough to start having issues with the cylinder binding. It's easy to see its buildup of powder residue and primer material underneath the extractor star. A quick brushing out with some Ballistol will get it back in action, but it's really frustrating. I own a half dozen other Smith revolvers that don't have the same problem. My workhorse revolver, a model 66, goes hundreds, or even thousands of rounds without cleaning with no issues.

Was there a problem with the gas ring design in this run of model 10's? Is there anything I can do to alleviate this problem?

I bought this revolver with the intention of carrying it, but the issues have caused me to lose confidence in it.

 

[vegasgunhand]

I'm not familiar with this problem in the model 10. It is very reminiscent of the problem the U.S. Customs Service had with the initial roll out of the CS- revolvers. In the case of the CS-1, the tolerances were ordered by the Customs Service were too close, and as such, caused the powder build up to bind the revolver after less than 50 rounds. The revolvers were recalled and a repair was conducted, and they were sent back to the field.

 

[max503]

I've never heard of this problem before.
Maybe try different ammo, and holding the muzzle up when ejecting spent cases?
I'm not above sending a gun back to the factory for repair. Sometimes they foot the bill, sometimes I do.

 

[rifmon]

I once owned a model 15 as new in box. After a number of shots fired, it would cease to function. The cylinder would not turn. I brought it to a local reputable gunsmith. If memory serves me well as it is over 10 years, the gunsmith fixed the problem with conservative and judicious filing of the forcing cone. It seemed as though in my particular 15, the gap was too small.

I think he told me that it was tight enough for it to bind as the metals heated up and expanded.

I hope this may help. If yours is as easy to identify and fix, I would not lose confidence in an otherwise excellent and reliable platform. My model 15 ran like a top afterwards.

 

[max503]

Gosh that gun is gorgeous.

 

[collim1]

Gosh that gun is gorgeous.

Yes. It truly is. It's the deepest bluing I've ever seen on a Smith revolver. The only thing that comes close is is my model 10 no dash pencil barrel, but it's a much lighter bluing than this one.

My lousy photography skills do not even begin to do it justice.

 

[Krogen]

The trouble with crud under the extractor star is a common problem. It's been going on for eons. I keep a dirty toothbrush in my range bag specifically for brushing out crud if it accumulates. You don't need solvent, just brush away the debris. Of course that's no solution for a carry gun.

You state it takes firing 40 - 60 rounds to encounter the problem. I would assume you carry a clean gun and wouldn't need 40 - 60 rounds in a defensive situation. However, I certainly understand how any possibility of binding shakes your confidence in the gun. It has to work when you need it!

A different load with different powder grains may help the situation. In my experience, flake powders like Unique are the worst. Those un-burned flat discs have a way of getting under the extractor and defeating all available end-shake resulting in binding. Fine grained or stick powders are trouble-free for me.

 

[collim1]

The trouble with crud under the extractor star is a common problem. It's been going on for eons. I keep a dirty toothbrush in my range bag specifically for brushing out crud if it accumulates. You don't need solvent, just brush away the debris. Of course that's no solution for a carry gun.



You state it takes firing 40 - 60 rounds to encounter the problem. I would assume you carry a clean gun and wouldn't need 40 - 60 rounds in a defensive situation. However, I certainly understand how any possibility of binding shakes your confidence in the gun. It has to work when you need it!



A different load with different powder grains may help the situation. In my experience, flake powders like Unique are the worst. Those un-burned flat discs have a way of getting under the extractor and defeating all available end-shake resulting in binding. Fine grained or stick powders are trouble-free for me.

I use Win 231 for my reloads. It's not a problem in my other revolvers but if this is especially tight maybe I need to try some factory ammo and see if that helps.

 

[kaaskop49]

A late post, I know, but have you tried the gun with factory ammo? This might give you a basis for comparison. I would bring the gun to a 'smith or contact the factory. A lovely gun that you're considering for EDC, it's worth having a pro go over it.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[AZretired]

Are we talking a build up of crud from factory or reloaded ammo? If it takes 40-50 rounds before it's a problem, this really shouldn't be an issue for a carry gun. Unless you plan on storming an enemy beach somewhere!

 

[H Richard]

Have you inspected the cylinder face, where it might rub on the breach face of the barrel? If the gap was too small you should see rub marks before it starts to bind up. If not, it would be the extractor star, (curd beneath). Evidently this revolver has minimal dimensions and one or the other should be the problem.

 

[Waveski]

I've had a lot of trouble with unburnt wafers getting under the ejector star. Have your reloads had a good field test in such a short barrel before? Different burn , different pressures ...

A good test with a variety of factory loads is certainly in order. You may just have a tight (tolerance) individual revolver which is a bit picky about what you feed it.

What is your c/fc gap?

 

[GRT3031]

I would advise to check the B/C gap with a feeler gauge to see if it is too tight or small.

If it is, the binding is caused not by your powder residue problem, but because the revolver has heated up from firing and the cylinder is now binding against the forcing cone because of metal expansion, closing that gap.

Check your star extractor fit, is it a sloppy fit? Could be the cause of the residue finding its way under the star extractor. I doubt this is your problem.

Are you using a cheap, dirty firing factory load?

Also, when the revolver is cleaned and not been fired (cooled off) pull the hammer back a little and turn the cylinder, see if it binds on anywhere.

Ok, hope that helps.

 

[GRT3031]

Have you inspected the cylinder face, where it might rub on the breach face of the barrel? If the gap was too small you should see rub marks before it starts to bind up. If not, it would be the extractor star, (curd beneath). Evidently this revolver has minimal dimensions and one or the other should be the problem.

of course I saw this after I posted!

 

[oysterer]

unburnt powder flakes getting under the ejector star, totally normal, change your load and every once in a while thoroughly brush under the ejector star with a nylon brush, there could be an old caked up little piece stuck there, use a bronze brush and really clean. This way you make room for the round not to bind on the backplate