Model 10-8 Replacement Barrel 4" Advice Please

[stanmerrell]

I bought 2 model 10-8 frames from J&G that require rebarreling and want to do it myself. The first one I did was easy, but the second I have rebarreled, and it seems to need some more fitting to function correctly.

The cylinder will not return to the frame without rotating it a little, and when returned, will not fully cycle in DA or SA mode. The hammer will not fully lock back to allow an SA or DA complete cycle.

I'm thinking my extractor may need shortening or something is too tight against the recoil shield. Pics below. Thanks for your suggestions.
https://ibb.co/p0z8kGQ
https://ibb.co/9Gv22cs
https://ibb.co/F8c01n0
https://ibb.co/Smg5NLG
https://ibb.co/sbChwZQ

 

[serger]

I'm thinking you are using the original cylinder assembly. IF SO:

Out of the ones I did, 3 needed the barrel to cylinder gap adjusted.
Take the gun and hold it up to the light and see if you have clearance
between the cylinder and forcing cone. You might have to take a fine
toothed file and square up the forcing cone area if you see cylinder rub
as you rotate the cylinder.

Since I didn't have a safe edge file I took a piece of 1/2" copper tubing
about 1 inch long and cut it length wise to make a strip. I pounded
the strip out flat and put it between the top of the barrel and frame
so I wouldn't cut the frame. Then you cut and try until the forcing cone
area is square and you've got (in my case) about .005" gap
as you rotate the cylinder.

Check out the cylinder gap and post back with what you found and did.

 

[stanmerrell]

Cylinder gap

Thanks Serger,
Cylinder gap is okay, a little on the big side.I may have adjust the barrel shoulder and trim it, but for now I just want to get the action working. It worked fine before the rebarreling, so I'm stumped. Thank you.

 

[Loyaljeeper]

Don't forget the locking block and ejector rod can cause issues when rebarreling. Is the locking block pushing the ratchet against the blast shield?

 

[serger]

Pull the cylinder assembly, remove the yoke. Put the yoke back in
and see if it's hitting the barrel.

Then tear down the cylinder assy and reassemble with just the
cylinder, extractor and extractor rod. Put it and the yoke back in
and check for binding.

If that ain't it, reassemble the cylinder assembly, and yoke.

Then tap out the locking bolt pin and remove the locking bolt and
spring . Check for binding. If it's binding then, the center pin is too long
and needs dressing. You might need to also adjust the length of the
slot in the locking bolt to get it to clear.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I would look at the gas ring on the cylinder and see if it is rubbing on part of the barrel extension. Depending on the amount of set back you may have to extend forward the little flat on the bottom of the barrel extension. Make sure the cylinder and yoke is pushed all the way to the rear before checking for this clearance.

 

[stanmerrell]

Ejector rod removal

Pull the cylinder assembly, remove the yoke. Put the yoke back in
and see if it's hitting the barrel.

Then tear down the cylinder assy and reassemble with just the
cylinder, extractor and extractor rod. Put it and the yoke back in
and check for binding.

If that ain't it, reassemble the cylinder assembly, and yoke.

Then tap out the locking bolt pin and remove the locking bolt and
spring . Check for binding. If it's binding then, the center pin is too long
and needs dressing. You might need to also adjust the length of the
slot in the locking bolt to get it to clear.

Thanks Serger,
I've never had to remove an ejector rod. How do you do it? Is it just threaded into the cylinder? Thanks.

 

[serger]

Harry Potterfield is you friend.

I use oak inserts on my vice to hold the ejector rod.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QEsDAI44Ns[/ame]

 

[serger]

I would look at the gas ring on the cylinder and see if it is rubbing on part of the barrel extension. Depending on the amount of set back you may have to extend forward the little flat on the bottom of the barrel extension. Make sure the cylinder and yoke is pushed all the way to the rear before checking for this clearance.

Do what he said first. I had to do this on another re barrel.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Harry Potterfield is you friend.

Just for the record, it's Harry Potter and Larry Potterfield.

 

[serger]

Dang , I thought I could sneak one in, ya got me.

 

[stanmerrell]

Thanks everybody. This was good advice. The yoke was making contact with the flat on the new barrel. Once relieved all was well. The cycling issue I narrowed down to a cylinder. Fortunately, I had two and the other worked fine. BC gap is about 9 thou or maybe 10. I hate big gaps and will probably correct it.

 

[stanmerrell]

Finally Finished

In conclusion, I was not happy with the BC gap. It was too big. I don't have a lathe, so I sourced some quality files and reduced the barrel shoulder working slowly and carefully. Once I had the barrel back in torqing range, I smoothed the shoulder with emery cloth, and pulled it to center. Then I worked the forcing cone to get it square and open enough to rotate the cylinder without drag. End result was good. Will try some loads tomorrow. This was a good learning experience.
https://ibb.co/Qcty1Nh
https://ibb.co/qMqHK8B

 

[steelslaver]

Congratulations on setting back your barrel using files. Proves what a patent man with some skills can do with a file

 

[serger]

That is so cool. Really gives you a good feeling when you can
do that. Of the ones I did a couple had to have the barrel set
back and forcing cones recut. I did them with files and the
calibrated eyeball helped out with feeler gauges.

Bravo Zulu.

 

[stanmerrell]

Thanks again Seger and Steel. Couldn't a done it without that video and good tips.