Model 10 question

[scatterguy]

I recently acquired the blued model 10-8. From what I gather reading here it was probably made in the late 70's early 80's.
The stainless one is my first S&W and I've had it about 3 years.
When I swing open the cylinder on the stainless one, it just shows "mod-10" with no dashes.
Does this mean that it is one of the earlier model 10's or did they put the "-*" on a different part of the gun on certain models?

Also, any range on what the value might be for each gun? The stainless one is about 85% and the blued one at least 90%.

Any input appreciated.

 

[fyimo]

The stainless one is really a nickel plated revolver and you can tell if it's a factory nickel revolver if it has an N on the frame under the grips and sometimes they have on the back of the cylinder by the extractor star. If it had nothing after the Model 10 on the crane it's a no dash made from 1957 to 1959


The 10-8 is a model with the heavy barrel verses the tapered barrel.

If you give us the serial numbers with XX's in the last two positions and any alpha character in front of the numbers we can tell what year it was made.

This is a 10-5 with the tapered barrel

 

[P&R Fan]

The one you say is stainless is nickel plated if it says Mod 10 inside the crane area. It would be a M 64 if it were stainless.
Not totally sure on values so will wait for the smarter folks to drop by.
Jim

 

[Goony]

The Model 10 was not made in stainless steel - your earlier example appears to be nickel plated.

The dash numbers signify engineering changes. Your Model 10 no dash thus can be roughly dated from 1957 to 1961. The 10-8, since the barrel is unpinned, was likely manufactured between 1982 and 1988.

 

[Road Rat]

Model and Dash numbering system
--------------------------------
Model 10
-1 1959 Heavy Barrel
-2 1961 Changed extractor rod thread to LH on standard barrel
-3 1961 Same as above, for heavy barrel
-4 1962 Screw in front of trigger eliminated
-5 1962 1/10" to 1/8" front sight, on standard barrel
-5 1962 Screw in front of trigger guard eliminated on
heavy barrel model
-7 1977 Change to put gas ring from yoke to cylinder
-8 1977 Change to put gas ring from yoke to cylinder
on heavy barrel model

 

[Goony]

Isn't it interesting that the elimination of the barrel pin wasn't deemed worthy of assigning a new dash number?

 

[Skeeziks]

Isn't it interesting that the elimination of the barrel pin wasn't deemed worthy of assigning a new dash number?

Probably 'cause it was a change (elimination) made thru the entire line of revolvers and not just unique to that model.

 

[redlevel]

Isn't it interesting that the elimination of the barrel pin wasn't deemed worthy of assigning a new dash number?

Probably 'cause it was a change (elimination) made thru the entire line of revolvers and not just unique to that model.

Actually, they were really ashamed of themselves and hoped no one would notice.

 

[scatterguy]

Nickel it is. I've got SS on the brain from the 3rd gen semis I've been enamored with lately.

Here are the S#:
10 no dash: C4840XX
10-8: AYV56XX

 

[Tracer_Bullet]

Nice 10's scatterguy. As far as value, for the gun alone (no box, paperwork, or accessories), in my area, I have seen nickel Model 10s go for right around $300-$350. The decent blued ones seem to fall into the $250-$300 range. The abused ones tend to run in the $150-$200 range. I have seen them cheaper online, but by the time you pay shipping and transfer fees I think the cost comes out about the same.

 

[scatterguy]

Thanks Tracer. Those figures seem pretty much in line with what I paid for them. I have a feeling that there will be more 10's in my future.

 

[stantheman86]

The 10-8 is a great gun, I have a 4" round butt and I love it.

The M&P - Model 10 is my favorite S&W revolver, I have 7 of them from various eras.

 

[Tracer_Bullet]

You are welcome, scatterguy. The prices can vary a bit, depending upon where you are located and who you are buying from. I just found a very nice nickel 10-5 (probably about 95%) and put it in layaway for $315+tax. OTOH, another shop in the area wanted $400 for a nice, blued 10-6 and wouldn't budge on the price. Someone apparently bought that gun after about 4 months, because it wasn't there the last time I went in to browse.

10's are hard guns to resist if the price is right. If they seem to be priced too high, try to negotiate, or pass on it. There are a lot of good model 10's out there at reasonable prices.