Model 17-4 Cylinder Stuck

[Super Dave]

Hi guys,

I thought my track record of buying used guns was pretty good...until I took my newest purchase out today for a test drive.

Per the seller, "mechanics are A-OK".

Before firing it I noticed that the cylinder didn't seem to close very easy each time...kind of like something was binding right before lock up. At the range it became harder to open. Now the darn thing is stuck. The thumb latch feels a little sticky.

Anyway, before I contact the seller I'd like to get some ideas of how bad of a problem I might have. Hopefully it's a pretty easy fix.

Otherwise I liked the gun. It's accuracy is good and the trigger is nice. Once working properly is will make an excellent shooter.

How about that turn line? I've never seen one that pronounced.

Thanks for your input,
Dave

 

[Trooperdan]

Tighten the ejector rod.

 

[Pondoro]

Yep. My K Frame does this, the ejector rod end screw backs out and binds the cylinder. I've had the same issue with Smith 22 revolvers that I use to teach at a camp (I don't own those). Some Smiths have left hand screws, others have right hand screws.

The way to get it tight is to put six empty cases in the cylinder (To stop the ejector star from slipping) and then hand tighten the end of the ejector rod.

 

[Aviator]

My 17 no dash did that today and it was the extractor rod coming loose.
I thought the -4 models had left hand threads to prevent that.

Where did you buy the gun?

 

[Super Dave]

Thanks guys.

What's the best way to release the cylinder? It's stuck in the closed position.

I purchased the gun from an individual on another forum. The guy is a target shooter and I think he's a good guy.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[bgrafsr]

Your 17-4 has a left hand threaded extractor rod. If you can turn the rod counter clockwise to tighten it enough so you can open the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder open, remove the front side plate screw, using a properly fitting hollow ground screwdriver, and the remove the yoke/cylinder assy. Remove the cylinder from the yoke, and as mentioned by a previous poster, put at least 3 spent .22 cases in the cylinder chambers. Wrap the knurled end of the extractor rod with a piece of leather and tighten the rod with a pair of pliers, again turning counter clockwise.

An alternative method used to tighten the rod is to place the rod in a drill chuck, tighten the chuck, and then turn the rod to tighten it up. Make the rod snug, but don't tighten to the point where you take a chance of stripping thr threads or breaking the rod.

As far as the turn ring, it's not that bad, but you could polish the top of the cylinder stop a bit to smooth it up. Just polish it, don't remove material or change the angle.

 

[Super Dave]

The ejector rod was loose. I tightened it and I still can't get it to release. I'm going to turn it over to my gunsmith on Wed.

Didn't I see on Jerry Miculek's video that you shouldn't take the extractor apart unless it's absolutely necessary because after a few times of doing that it won't stay tight. Or am I confusing that with something else?

Could I be looking at a problem that will keep occurring?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Fountainofyouth]

Follow up on this older thread

I have a 17-4 that closes fine until I fire a few rounds. Then it becomes very difficult to close the cylinder. I thought maybe it was just tight tolerances and dirty ammo but it's super frustrating. I love the fun otherwise. Do you mind sharing if/how you resolved your issue?

 

[Fountainofyouth]

Hi. I know this post is old, but I just purchased a 17-4 and am experiencing a similar issue. The cylinder will close fine when it is clean. But after firing it becomes very hard to close the cylinder. My other center fire revolvers are newer and the tolerances don't seem to be as tight. I figured it was just a super tight fit combined with dirty 22 ammo. But I'm wondering now if my ejector rod is loose. I'm by no means a gun smith so a little worried about trying to tighten it. How did you resolve your issue? Did you end up taking it to a smith?

 

[Super Dave]

Hi, yes, my gunsmith fixed it and said the same thing...ejector rod was loose. He probably charged $10 or $20. It was not that big of a deal. I sold the gun a long time ago. Good luck.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Also, make sure you keep the area under the extractor (star) dry and free of oil. Brush out the counterbore in the cylinder and the bottom of the extractor. Carbon, lead, and unburnt powder flakes will fall on the back of the extractor when you eject fired brass. This gets trapped between the cylinder and extractor and makes the cylinder very tight. Cleaning well for 30 seconds or so with a toothbrush (nylon, brass, stainless, etc.) gets it back to normal. It may take 2 or 3 times if you miss a flake of powder. This applies to all calibers and all brands of revolver.