28-2 exctactor rod tight stuck cylinder

[Model29-26.5]

I guess I'll start from the beginning.

I have a refinished 28-2.
Had some end shake which I eliminated with the insertion of 2 x 002 shims.

Unfortunately, in order to get the extractor rod out, despite using a vice with leather protection and every bit of pressure I could put on it, rubber gloves, and anything I could think of, the rod kept tuning, slipping in the vice, leather, gloves.
Finally I had to put it in the vice, leather, rubber and all else, I had to use a pair of vice grips on the knurled end along with the vice to get enough friction/grip. It finally broke loose but not without damaging the knurling. Trust me when I say I tried everything I could think of in order not to have to do this.
I got another rod which I tried replacing today.
Almost works, but the cylinder gets stuck.
I have to push the thumb latch pretty hard and whack the cylinder loose.
I put the old rod back and it's fine.
The new rod is official SW but not quite working.
I see that as close as they are.. the two rods aren't quite precisely the same..

My question is: what needs adjusting?
Getting a shim out is next to impossible.
Shave the end of the crane?
The rod?
What needs shortening a hair?
Something the rod inside the rod is just a little long, it seems.

Any advice?
Thanks

 

[Hair Trigger]

It's a refinished gun and a shooter, I'd just replace the original extractor rod after cleaning up the knurled end a little. The replacement is obviously too long, you might make it work by removing just a little metal at a time from the threaded end so it screws deeper into the extractor star. Probably less than a millimeter needs removing. Anything else you modify will be noticeable worse than the screwed up knurling on the original rod.

 

[Model29-26.5]

It's a refinished gun and a shooter, I'd just replace the original extractor rod after cleaning up the knurled end a little. The replacement is obviously too long, you might make it work by removing just a little metal at a time from the threaded end so it screws deeper into the extractor star. Probably less than a millimeter needs removing. Anything else you modify will be noticeable worse than the screwed up knurling on the original rod.

So you think it's definitely the rod itself that needs shortening?
I'm not sure. Seems it might be shorter from the get go. Very very slightly?
I though it mint need to be a little longer, which means something else needs to be shorter.
I'd really need to think about what's what here…
If a shim was put in for end shake, could I take one out now?
Will this make a difference to the stuck cylinder or bring end shake back some?
I know all these things are reliant on each other for total smooth operation.
If I take a 002 shim out would the work?

 

[armorer951]

The first question is do you have enough end shake for the internals to work properly? The shim in the yoke assembly, if there is a shim, may be too long. The cylinder/yoke assembly requires .001" - .002" of space or "end shake" to function.

If you need to shorten the extractor rod a bit you can remove material from the extractor rod collar. This will shorten the assembly itself (OAL) without affecting the center pin, extractor rod, or any of the other components in the cylinder assembly.


Carter

 

[Model29-26.5]

Thanks.
I got it working.
It shot great a couple of days ago but I wanted to replaced the extractor rod just for OCD sake and make it good,
I polished the end down with wet and dry checking after a while each time until it opened smoothly.
All is well with it now.
The end shake was about 0075 if I remember.
I put two shims in so it "should" be 0035 now which is in spec.
I'll check it again

 

[steelslaver]

As you have discovered ejector rods and center pins are actually fitted parts. Thats because the barrel to frame and under lug fit up can have small variances as well as extractor etc, Installing end shake shims does not cause any change in length needed BTW

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Any advice?

Take it to a professional.

 

[Model29-26.5]

As you have discovered ejector rods and center pins are actually fitted parts. Thats because the barrel to frame and under lug fit up can have small variances as well as extractor etc, Installing end shake shims does not cause any change in length needed BTW

Yes.
I'm keen to learn about it all and do it myself not to save $$ but because that's a big part of the hobby.