Model 18 rimfire having light primer strikes

GBertolet

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I am having light primer strikes. Gun goes bang, SA and DA, but strikes are very light. Strain screw tightened all the way. I did notice the firing pin rebound spring is pretty stiff. Maybe dirt, who knows. Anyhow I want to remove the FP, and spring for inspection. Maybe install a lighter rebound spring if warranted. I do have a new FP on hand.

I never had to remove the FP on a rimfire S&W before. What are the steps to remove the FP, and does the retaining pin come out from a particular direction? Any info would be appreciated.
 
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First of all, make sure each 22 is pushed all the way into its chamber.

22 rounds are tight in most chambers and if not fully seated the hammer often pushed the round down and it needs a second strike to fire.

Of course, a certain percentage of rimfire ammo will not work on ANY first strike.
 
The ammo is pushed in all the way. I cleaned up the tight chambers with a reamer, some time ago. There was a long post about this, some time ago. The cases fall right in.

I guess the question is, what is a good primer strike in the S&W revolvers?
 
I am having light primer strikes. Gun goes bang, SA and DA, but strikes are very light. Strain screw tightened all the way. I did notice the firing pin rebound spring is pretty stiff. Maybe dirt, who knows. Anyhow I want to remove the FP, and spring for inspection. Maybe install a lighter rebound spring if warranted. I do have a new FP on hand.

I never had to remove the FP on a rimfire S&W before. What are the steps to remove the FP, and does the retaining pin come out from a particular direction? Any info would be appreciated.

You need to re-spring your gun Dude. Your Springs are likely old & weak- they don't last forever. Replace with OEM S&W Springs and carry on.
Clean your chambers till the rounds fall right in with gravity all the way into the chamber. If the chambers are clean, the springs are probably the culprit.
I wouldn't be messing with the FP, or parts, till you cleaned the gun & re-springed it first. Good luck!
 
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Reduced power mainsprings in any S&W .22 revolver is a bad idea, as it will lead to FTF's. A lighter perceived trigger pull in that .22 is achieved by a smooth action; many aspects to achieving that. Just not lessening the hammer blow as part of it.

My 60 yr old 18's run fine still with their original springs. The internals are clean and properly (lightly) lubed. I'm careful to keep all aspects of the cylinder clean and in spec.
 
The hits are so light I am lucky it does go bang. With other brands of ammo, with less sensitive primers, it might not go bang.
 
First thing I'd try is spraying the firing pin good with an aerosol cleaner. Next would be a new factory mainspring.
 
Lol, I was ribbing you. The answer at the time was that it’s a complex procedure beyond the abilities of most home gunsmiths. There is some risk that the frame will be damaged.

I suggest that you focus on assuming that if there is a problem, it is not the firing pin. If you try everything else suggested, none of which is especially difficult, and still have a problem, then a trip to a gunsmith is probably in order.

It’s been a problem for more than a decade, and if you just want to be done with it, send me a private message and we can make arrangements.
 
Im many cases a detailed disassembly and cleaning can resolve these problems. Depending on how many hundred thousands of rounds have been fired, the firing pin could have enough wear to need replacement. One thing to try is, with cylinder open and hammer back spray brake & parts cleaner directly into the firing pin area from the rear, blow out with compressed air, and put about a 1/2 drop of good CLP into the firing pin recess. Give it a few minutes to sink in, then try shooting to see if improved. Yes, a firing pin spring can rust and get gummed up enough to cause problems. Especially if the revolver had been holster carried while hiking, hunting, camping very much.
 
Check the mainspring tension screw. It should be tight. If it has been backed out, or has backed out on its own, or has been shortened, or if the spring has been lightened, light strikes will occur. Folks often loosen the screw to lessen trigger pull. This is absolutely, positively the WRONG thing to do.
 
I had a the identical problem. I checked the springs and the mainspring screw. I noticed some front to back sloppiness in the cylinder. I got some thin shims from Brownells and shimmed the cylinder a bit. It solved my problem. It was a cheap enough to give it a try.
 
Remove the grips. Wear safety glasses. Use carb spray or brake cleaner outside in fresh air to scrub and clean the action. Dry with compressed air or just let air dry. After cleaning Remoil is a good lubricant. Don't remove the side plate unless you have to.
 
I am having light primer strikes. Gun goes bang, SA and DA, but strikes are very light. Strain screw tightened all the way. I did notice the firing pin rebound spring is pretty stiff. Maybe dirt, who knows. Anyhow I want to remove the FP, and spring for inspection. Maybe install a lighter rebound spring if warranted. I do have a new FP on hand.



I never had to remove the FP on a rimfire S&W before. What are the steps to remove the FP, and does the retaining pin come out from a particular direction? Any info would be appreciated.
Could be dirty take it out clean and inspect do the primer strikes look right or a broken pin ? If you haven't messed with the internals probably pin issue.

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