Model 19 Analysis
- Thread starter TheOldPro
- Start date
I'm no gunsmith, but I'd guess sloppy cylinder lockup, cylinder end shake and a flame cut top strap.
All but the last can be fixed. I guess a really, really good smith can weld a deeply cut strap and not mess up the gun, but they're scarce.
All but the last can be fixed. I guess a really, really good smith can weld a deeply cut strap and not mess up the gun, but they're scarce.
One of the things I first check on a .357 K is the forcing cone at 6 o'clock position. I only recall ever seeing one cracked though. The other mechanical checks are standard across most all DA revolvers. Check stickies or do a search.
opaul
US Veteran
~
There have been threads and discussions about inspecting revolvers but here are a few of the things I remember and look/inspect. I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will be responding as well. Be sure to do all t his with permission of the seller. (Note- make sure gun is unloaded)
~ Cock the hammer and while holding it, ease the trigger back and let the hammer down. While still holding the trigger back check the cylinder for excessive movement - circular and end shake. There will most likely be some but it shouldn't be sloppy.
~ Cock the hammer back until it is locked, gently push on the hammer. It should not go out of the locked position.
~ Put the cylinder next to your ear and while cocking and letting the hammer down you should be able to hear the cylinder engage and lock through all chambers.
~ With a finger gently applying pressure on the right side of the cylinder, cycle the cylinder through the chambers. The cylinder should move and not stop until reaching the locking point.
~ check the bore for cleanliness, pitting etc.
~ check for excessive flame cutting above the forcing cone.
~ Remove the grips and look for rust.
~ Inspect the side plate screws. There should be no burrs or evidence of the screws being removed. If there is, proceed with questions about the side plate removal. This may or may not be a deal breaker.
~ I'm sure I've missed a couple.
If I mis-stated anything I apologize, but this is how I do it.
There have been threads and discussions about inspecting revolvers but here are a few of the things I remember and look/inspect. I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will be responding as well. Be sure to do all t his with permission of the seller. (Note- make sure gun is unloaded)
~ Cock the hammer and while holding it, ease the trigger back and let the hammer down. While still holding the trigger back check the cylinder for excessive movement - circular and end shake. There will most likely be some but it shouldn't be sloppy.
~ Cock the hammer back until it is locked, gently push on the hammer. It should not go out of the locked position.
~ Put the cylinder next to your ear and while cocking and letting the hammer down you should be able to hear the cylinder engage and lock through all chambers.
~ With a finger gently applying pressure on the right side of the cylinder, cycle the cylinder through the chambers. The cylinder should move and not stop until reaching the locking point.
~ check the bore for cleanliness, pitting etc.
~ check for excessive flame cutting above the forcing cone.
~ Remove the grips and look for rust.
~ Inspect the side plate screws. There should be no burrs or evidence of the screws being removed. If there is, proceed with questions about the side plate removal. This may or may not be a deal breaker.
~ I'm sure I've missed a couple.
If I mis-stated anything I apologize, but this is how I do it.
From what I know, look for cracks around the forcing cone, from shooting too many 125gr jhp full house loads
Drm50
Member
I only buy hi condition guns. On S&Ws first look on such gun is recoil shield. Lots of magnum loads will usually imprint on shield. All in all if the gun looks near mint chances are it hasn’t been shot much. If there is something wrong with it, not usually to do with round count or wear.
opaul
US Veteran
You are welcome. I suspect if it has had lots of hot rounds through it all of the inspection steps would indicate it's a loose gun.
OP
TheOldPro
US Veteran
I would think so as well. Plus the cone issue mentioned by others.
BTW I'm a Carolina Boy as well. Asheville. But been in Texas for 20 years now. Got a house there, may return someday.
opaul
US Veteran
You are correct, I forgot to mention the recoil shield imprints.
My initial check .....followed by the forcing cone.... overall condition and everything opaul said!
Also on 19s I prefer no dash to -4s guns for Pinned and recessed.
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Personally I don't think the recoil shield is a good indication. It really doesn't take many magnum rounds to show on the recoil shield. I'd be more concerned about forcing cone, gas cutting, end shake and timing.
