Model 19 vs. 66
- Thread starter tatume
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
The type of steel is the only difference. All parts are interchangeable between the two models.
If you mean a cracked forcing cone, I’ve never seen a cracked Model 66, but I suppose it happens. If you do mean a cracked frame, the cracked K-frames I’ve seen have been blued steel guns - both of them .38 Specials.
My theory on cracked forcing cones, besides abusive .357 Magnum ammunition, regards apparent lack of cleaning. I remember seeing a 6-inch Model 19 with Bomar rib and a beautifully tuned double-action. The owner told me the gun had fired less that 50 .357s in its life, but had fired thousands of .38 Special wadcutters in PPC matches. He did not clean it because he was afraid it would disturb accuracy. He continued shooting it even though the cone showed a crack that looked to be at least 0.060” wide, or a bit more.
My theory on cracked forcing cones, besides abusive .357 Magnum ammunition, regards apparent lack of cleaning. I remember seeing a 6-inch Model 19 with Bomar rib and a beautifully tuned double-action. The owner told me the gun had fired less that 50 .357s in its life, but had fired thousands of .38 Special wadcutters in PPC matches. He did not clean it because he was afraid it would disturb accuracy. He continued shooting it even though the cone showed a crack that looked to be at least 0.060” wide, or a bit more.
The Model 19 is carbon steel with either a blued or nickel plated finish, the Model 66 is stainless steel, that is really the only difference between the two. Both will be equally durable and both will share the same weakness, which is the flat spot at the bottom of the barrel shank. This weakness was addressed with the introduction of the Model 19-9 and 66-8.
Years ago, someone who claimed to have a knowledge of metallurgy told me that stainless alloys tend to have a bit more "spring / stretch" than does carbon steel. That opinion concluded that carbon steel would be more prone to cracking whereas stainless wouldn't.
While that above thought might apply in a general sense, I suspect whatever alloys S&W is using have eliminated any appreciable structural strength qualities between the two. Others more knowledgeable than me will be able to address the finer points of the qualities of the two metals.
While that above thought might apply in a general sense, I suspect whatever alloys S&W is using have eliminated any appreciable structural strength qualities between the two. Others more knowledgeable than me will be able to address the finer points of the qualities of the two metals.
SWFan27
Member
I own a 66-8 and 19-9 and shoot mostly magnums. They are both built like tanks and can handle all the magnums you can handle. The frame on the 19-9 and cylinder lockup is slightly different to help retain the vintage Model 19 vibe a little more. The top strap is slightly thicker.
Last edited:
S&WshooterFIN
Member
If you want shoot real .357 mag, buy L- or N-frame revolver.
SWFan27
Member
I agree if you are talking about the vintage K frames verse the larger frames. But the modern redesigned K frames can handle magnums without any issue or worry. According to Jerry Miculek the forcing cones on the new K frames are strong as the N frames.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rliTo_SnPIE"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rliTo_SnPIE[/ame]
Last edited:
SnidelyWhiplash
Member
Early in production of stainless steel guns S&W (and a few others) had some issues as it took time before the stainless technology as applied to guns was fully worked out. It's basically a non-issue today.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
When I was a cop the talk in the Locker Room was the stainless No Dash revolvers can not have a trigger as nice as a blue.
-1 were the better stainless revolvers.
-1 were the better stainless revolvers.
Similar threads
