Model 1955 25-2 Price Check

[keithpip]

I was looking at a Model 25-2 at my LGS. It's in very good condition, N serial number, all original except the stocks. It's wearing S&W logo smooth stocks that don't quite fit the frame. They work but I can see gaps. No box etc just the gun. He has it listed for $875. Opinions please. Sorry no pics.

Keith

 

[22hipower]

Your "very good condition" may be different from mine, but I would pay that for it and wouldn't take too long thinking about it. I have one and have been looking for another, hoping for under $800, for several years but none so far. I'd try to get it for less but $875 would likely make it a "buy" for me. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[OldChief]

I've been looking for one for a long time and they're hard to come by. I wouldn't hesitate to buy that one. I just purchased a real nice 625-2 yesterday for 900.

 

[Art Doc]

Sold one on Gunbroker a couple months ago. Bad turn line otherwise no finish issues. Really pretty targets. No box. Started at $600 and winning bid was $1,050.

 

[slipnotz]

I wouldn't wait too long, you'll miss it.

 

[lamarw]

I picked this one, pictures, up yesterday from my FFL. It is a 45 ACP as opposed to a .45 Colt. It also did not come with box or tools but did have the two 1/2 clips for it. I won it at a live auction along with 2 other revolvers. It is a beautiful revolver in excellent condition and does not appear to of been shot much at all.

I won it for $650.00 but there were other cost involvered like buyer's premium, sales tax, shipping cost and my FFL's fee. All together I am in it for $814.00 and a few pennies.

There is already a S&W Mountain Gun in .45 Colt in my accumulation.

What caliber is the one you are looking at?

 

[lamarw]

I picked this one, pictures, up yesterday from my FFL. It is a 45 ACP as opposed to a .45 Colt. It also did not come with box or tools but did have the two 1/2 clips for it. I won it at a live auction along with 2 other revolvers. It is a beautiful revolver in excellent condition and does not appear to of been shot much at all.

I won it for $650.00 but there were other cost involvered like buyer's premium, sales tax, shipping cost and my FFL's fee. All together I am in it for $814.00 and a few pennies.

There is already a S&W Mountain Gun in .45 Colt in my accumulation.

My lousy pictures do not do it justice.

What caliber is the one you are looking at?

 

[blakesum]

I picked this one, pictures, up yesterday from my FFL. It is a 45 ACP as opposed to a .45 Colt. It also did not come with box or tools but did have the two 1/2 clips for it. I won it at a live auction along with 2 other revolvers. It is a beautiful revolver in excellent condition and does not appear to of been shot much at all.

I won it for $650.00 but there were other cost involvered like buyer's premium, sales tax, shipping cost and my FFL's fee. All together I am in it for $814.00 and a few pennies.

There is already a S&W Mountain Gun in .45 Colt in my accumulation.

My lousy pictures do not do it justice.

What caliber is the one you are looking at?

You did very well! I have been on the look out for the same gun.

 

[Bullet Bob]

"What caliber is the one you are looking at?"

All 25-2's are .45 ACP.

As I'm posting this, I realize that someone will show a special factory order one in .45 Colt.

So, all standard production 1955's, 25's, 25-1, and 25-2's are .45 ACP

 

[Patrick L]

BUY IT!!!!!! TODAY!

 

[rkeniston]

Extractor rod ?

Not really a reply, but I need help and am not familiar with posting properly. I have a nice 25-2 and when trying to unscrew the extractor rod from the extractor, it won't budge using reasonable force, either direction. The one gunsmith I asked wasn't familiar with them. I sure don't want to risk hurting it. Can someone advise, LH or RH threads? Also, the best way to do this? I tried using the smallest vise grips over a leather pad, but the leather was beginning to tear, so I stopped.

 

[moosedog]

Wondering why would you want to unscrew the extractor rod from the extractor? Is it bent or some other problem?

 

[rkeniston]

No, no problems, simply wanted to give it a thorough cleaning and thought that would be a simple task. Don't have a dip tank, suppose I could spray it clean, but now that I know it isn't simple, it's become a mission. Never had this problem with my other wheelguns. Are you saying I shouldn't be attempting this?

 

[g8rb8]

In decades of shooting and cleaning S&W revolvers I have never had reason to loosen a perfectly tight ejector rod and have always been able to maintain clean and perfectly functional revolvers. If you remove the yoke via removal of the yoke screw above the trigger area on the right side of the frame (as the gun is pointed away from you) you will be able to clean the ejector rod sufficiently.

WARNING: Do NOT attempt to remove the ejector rod without first putting cartridges (preferably spent) into the chambers or you will likely cause damage to the ejector star.

Some ejector rods screw in clockwise and some counterclockwise.
Left hand threaded before 1957-1958 (as best I recall).
Right hand threaded after 1957-1958 (as best I recall).

The only time I've ever needed to mess with an ejector rod is the couple of times I've seen someone renting a revolver bring it back to the desk complaining they cannot get the cylinder shut and after seeing the staff struggle to "fix it" I have offered to look at it and it's always been a loose ejector rod. Tightening the ejector rod (empty cartridges in the chambers) fixes it.

 

[rkeniston]

Thanks, Scoundrel. S/N is 450XXX, haven't researched the yr, but will follow your yoke removal advice & leave the rod alone.

 

[rkeniston]

Oh, and BTW, if everything is kosher, if it's " perfectly tight" why am I having so much trouble loosening it? Never mind...

 

[g8rb8]

Oh, and BTW, if everything is kosher, if it's " perfectly tight" why am I having so much trouble loosening it? Never mind...

For discussion sake let's assume an ejector rod is just barely finger tight. Eventually the ejector rod would likely loosen with shooting the revolver, opening and closing the cylinder, and ejecting empty shells. If the ejector rod loosens enough it will lengthen the rod enough that the cylinder will not close (or open). Hence the ejector rod needs to be tight enough that so that the actions it is normally subjected to will not loosen it.

It is NORMAL for ejector rod to be tight enough that either a specific tool or specific technique is needed for removal. Although I have not removed an ejector rod I have read how others do it:
1. Remove cylinder (with ejector rod) from revolver via removal of yoke screw on right side of revolver. Yoke will need to be pulled out and then cylinder (with ejector rod) is pulled out of yoke.
2. Figure out how you will secure the cylinder while you turn the ejector rod. You may be able to get away with securing the cylinder merely by firmly holding it in your hand but if you cannot get the ejector rod removed by holding the cylinder in your hand then carefully pad the cylinder (with ejector rod) and secure in a vice so as not to harm the cylinder but firm enough so the cylinder is secure and with the ejector rod oriented so you can easily access it.
3. PUT EMPTY CARTRIDGES IN THE CHAMBERS.
4. Protect the surface of the ejector rod before attempting to remove it. Leather such as on old belt is an acceptable interface to place between pliers or vice grips and the ejector rod to protect the finish and metal of the ejector rod. Alternatively thick layers of tough tape like duct tape wrapped around the ejector rod would work too.
5. Carefully turn ejector rod with the pliers or vice grips in the proper direction without bending the ejector rod. A bent ejector rod creates problems.

Hopefully the above discussion illustrates why I do not attempt to remove a perfectly good and tight ejector rod.